Hi all,

Just got an 07 TDV8 and wondering what the deal with tow bars is??? i might tow occasionally but really want to have a decent bike rack that will allow access to the boot.
So, assuming it doesnt have one fitted already.. which its doesnt to my limited knowledge. Is it a case of just buying the removable bar with ball as LR kindly leave all the metal work in place or do i need substantial metal work installed as well?
Also is there a socket to plug in electrics or do you need to "splice" them in?

Did a few searches, but to my mind nothing concrete to confirm nor deny what i need!

Many Thanks

Nick

Hi, and welcome.

I bought a rack to take 5 bikes for our Disco3, and it is fantastic, well built and works perfectly. See the link below, the company also do a similar one for the L322 RR, however note that you need a non original type of tow bar.

http://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel3...mp;vptype=

If you want to pm me with you VIN, i can have a look through your build specs on Microcat. That will tell me if your vehicle has a towbar prep fitted. Alternatively just look under your back bumper and look for the telltale square hole in the armarture under the bumper. This is it the centre of the vehicle.

With regards to wiring it is a plug attachment that connects behind drivers side rear light cluster.

For your reference below are some links to the towbar fitting instructions.

Armature Fitting

Electrics Fitting

Drop Plate Towbar Fitting

Detachable Towbar Fitting

I hope these help.

Cheers

Steve

Discussed here also:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic2119.html 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

FFRR towbar is an expensive option (>£1000). There's a lot more to it than the removable bit and if you are fitting it yourself then there is no need to go splicing into cables - all the additional loom just plugs-in. The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

Even though the wiring is straightward to install.. Its not quite plug and play and the car still needs to be "told" that it has the wiring by the Dealer or independent garage with appropriate computer.

I assume that the computer detects the extra load on the lamp circuit, assumes it has a trailer and therefore freezes the suspension in "standard" etc.

DeltaC wrote:

Even though the wiring is straightward to install.. Its not quite plug and play and the car still needs to be "told" that it has the wiring by the Dealer or independent garage with appropriate computer.

I assume that the computer detects the extra load on the lamp circuit, assumes it has a trailer and therefore freezes the suspension in "standard" etc.

Does it actually need to be programmed?? I've not seen any info for this in the Light Control Module programming? 

AFAIK, the programming required is purely for the rear PDC. When a trailer is attached (via the electrics) the rear PDC is automatically disabled to avoid the car constantly detecting the trailer. I'm not aware of any suspension programming and it is still possible to raise/lower the vehicle with a trailer attached..  The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom

When my trailer is hooked up, the suspension goes to standard setting, the little light comes on on the knob and it does not adjust height at speed.

Basically does what it says in the manual

Makes sense because if you have a dual axle trailer and have loaded it evenly to provide the correct nose weight, a drop of the drawbar by a couple of inches will alter the loading on the axles and potentially de-stabilise the trailer.

Steve

Your drop plate instructions have been updated. The pin and lcoking pin have been replaced with a nut and bolt.

WhenI got mine nearly five years ago it was very noisy when towing, sounded link an eye and pin coupling, the dealer replaced the armature with a UK one, for some reason it had a North America spec armature, and supplied a new drop plate assembly with the nut and bolt.

No noise now but harder to remove. Mine has never been removed because it spends most of its time towing.

Ian

Ian,

Thanks for that, those instructions were straight off of the GTR Owners Information Website. Just goes to show that Land Rover can be a little behind the times!!

I've not noticed my PDC sensors switching off when I have a trailer.... Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

I haven't used a trailer with mine but I have used a towball mounted bike rack and when I connect the electrics the rear PDC is disabled. I think that this is mentioned in the owners handbook. I'm Not so sure about the suspension ride height though. This may be MY specific.

Steve

Rear PDC turned off and suspension locked in standard when caravan hooked up to mine.

In theory it does bulb checking for the trailer as well, I have had a 'check trailer lights message' a couple of times but no faulty lights.

I was sure I had read something about it also remapping the gearbox changes when towing but cannot find it.

Ian

IanV8 wrote:

I was sure I had read something about it also remapping the gearbox changes when towing but cannot find it.

Ian

I've not seen a gearbox mode in the WSM, I have however noticed the shift pattern seems to change when towing but it is more akin to "Hill Mode" that just detects that it needs to hold onto the gears for longer.

I would have though hill mode would be the equiv of a towing mode.

On the newer terrain response models I believe there is a towing mode (Trailer Stability Assist) for the DSC that counteracts trailer sway:

Can't say I'd like to test that sway test out!