Hiya, seen lots of posts on here about getting the stub shaft of the CV joint out of the hub... its a press fit and is made worse by corrosion and age. I intend to try using a hub tool in reverse, to push the shaft through. Failing that, I will follow 47p2's advice and try pushing it out with a blunt tool in an air hammer.

That covers getting it out - but what about putting it back? is it such a fit that you can get it so far home, then draw it with the shaft nut? Or am I worrying for nothing, it will just fly back thru the hub once its cleaned up etc.

FYI, the CV is in good nick, I dont want to spoil it by hitting it with a beeeg hammer.... its just that I cant get the upper arm ball joint out of the hub for love nor money, so need the access provided by withdrawing the shaft.

I recall another forum member mentioning that these cars are so affected by corrosion in the fasteners etc throughout the suspension, and the lack of copper grease etc - this has been my experience also, throughout the entire process of rebuilding my new car's front end (57 plate so 6 year old) I have found everything to be seized totally. The ABS sensor for instance, is seized into the hub with rust or crap and has had to be destroyed to get it out. The hub-to-airstrut lower 14mm bolts had to be drilled out eventually, even the 450NM rattle gun refused to shift them....

Cheers in advance, Les

I can't really picture where you mean but when I did my lower ball joint it was a pig, but released with advice found on here. Basically used a jack to push it upwards from underneath (almost lifting the car) then some heat made it ping out.

They are a sod to do and seem fused together, but will come with patience (or psychotic swearing) My Previous RR's!
2018 P400e Autobiography
2008 TDV8 Vogue
2006 TD6 Vogue
2007 TDV8 Vogue
2007 RRS (I know, it doesn't count!)
2005 4.4 Vogue on LPG
2005 TD6 Vogue
2003 4.4 Vogue
2001 4.6 HSE
2000 2.5 DHSE
1999 4.6 HSE
1997 4.6 HSE on LPG
1995 2.5 DSE
1989 3.9 EFI classic
1988 3.5 EFI classic

Hi Les when I had both sides out the other week replacing the wheel bearings I drove the axle out using my SP 1500 hydraulic and bolted it to 4 wheel studs. I drove them out very easily. Putting them back was a right sod, in the end I released the CV boot and tapped them in with a copper/leather hammer. I believe the correct tool is a very narrow side walled threaded tube that screws onto the end of the axle and draws it through the hub.
By the way only the LH front bearing was playing up but I replaced both wheel bearings as due to shipping costs I might as well bring in both and I couldn't be arsed doing the job again. I did the same with the front struts and arb links.

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Before refitting you need to ensure the splines on both parts are immaculately clean, then they should slip together most of the way and finally just nip up the last part with the hub nut. Remember to torque to the correct setting

I can sell you a pusher for £250... They are a copy of a Land Rover tool i borrowed and our engineers made 6 sets out of a superior grade of steel so they are very very strong!

PM me if of interest...

Craig

Hi Craig, hi all, thanks for the advice, good to know that the shaft ought to pull back in with the beeeeg nut.... I have made a pusher out of 8 mm plate that bolts over the wheel studs and has a 16mm threaded boss in centre, not tried it yet as podding down here, will post pic, assuming it works!!