Hi guys. Can anyone give me advice on how to change my alternator over. Is it difficult. Is there any photographs available on how to do this. Many thanks if anyone can help

Hardest part is getting the viscous fan off. Fairly straight forward if you are handy with the spanners.

Disconnect the battery
Fan off,and cowling out.
Remove belt
IIRC, you remove an idler pulley and a bracket from the front of the engine
1 multiplug and battery cable removed
Undo the remaining bolt and remove alternator.

ISTR having to remove the big hose for the fuel cooler, and lift the alternator out that way.

Took about an hour and an a half after the fan was off

Many thanks. I thought there would be no way of getting it off without taking fan and coupling off. Looking forward to that.
Oh well here goes

There's nothing in the wiki for TD6 alternator replacement. Be good if you'd take some pictures then it can be added.

If weather is ok tomorrow I will strip the old one off. I am expecting delivery of new one on Friday so it would be good to have it stripped down ready to go. There is a video on youtube that shows how to remove the viscous fan and cowling so I will have a look at that before I start.If I am successful I will take pics as I go along

One thing to be aware of is the main nut (36 mm I think) between fan hub and the thread that it attaches to is left hand threaded.

Good luck.

Why does every operation on the TD6 involve removing the Fan? Have Land Rover lost the plot? I can see the advantage in removing the engine cover, so that you can see, but removing the fan seems to be one step too anal to me. I managed to change the Rad and the gearbox cooler with the fan in place, and I didn't remove the alternator either. My best guess is they have worked out the best of justifying high labour bills for simple jobs. What is your friendly AA repair man going to do when your fan belt has snapped at the side of the road, bet its not take the fan off  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Yes, good point there. It is a pain to have to remove the fan, but life wasn't meant to be too easy.

See page 4 at the attached link. I know it is for a Disco 3 but the concept will be similar for your predicament and also understanding how you can easily slacken the tensioners by using a 3/8" socket drive in the ready made slot in the front of the tensioner. Not something you might think to do without a shove. I used a tension wrench with a long bar as there is quite a bit of spring loading to hold back while you slip the belt/s off.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic54774-45.html

I hope this helps a bit.



Pete

Do something simple.

Don't put the bloody thing back in!!!

A few of us run without them and haven't blown out engines to buy or cooked them.

The front electric fan does a very good job in this country and I'm sure as long as you weren't scaling hardknott pass with a 3.5tonne trailer on the hottest day of the year...

Though I would do what I did and flush the coolant system it's heap enough to do popping the bottom rad pipe off iirc and keeps the system at its best  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Should help;

Click image to enlarge

I have removed the viscous fan (4.4 v with no issue and left it off as it makes getting to everything else so much easier.

There is a wiki on it and I have a few tips from my own experience below link.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic27551.html Howard
____________________________________________________
2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

Vicious fan (intentional speling mistake) been off my TD6 too for 18 months, no problems, apart from taking up room in the garage. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Have to agree, took mine off and replaced it with a twin electric setup from a Jaguar, but it's not really needed, the aircon fan comes on in stages if it gets hot...

Miggit, you can change the drive belt without taking the fan off.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

Mine has never gone to full speed and I have tested high speed works as well but he'll even with the engine at revs you could easily hear it over the engine lol it Deffo pushes a LOT of air into the engine bay! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I know that you can replace the serpentine belt with the fan on, so my question is WHY do you have to remove the fan to get the alternator off, I have never taken the fan off to replace the alternator on any other car I've worked on. Mind you I have had to remove the air box / filter, turbo pipes and air con compressor to get at the alternator on a landcruiser, japs still fighting a war of sabotage But even then the fan was left alone. It just seams to be a con step to try and frighten the home mechanic in to hanging up his spanners and sending down to the stealers, plus they can charge more. I'm surprised that they don't recommend the removal of the rear wheels as well  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!