Hi, all!
I know there are automatic gearbox experts (and many other wise heads!) on this forum, and I would like to ask for their valued opinion.
This link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zzEtxJkC7Y presents 5 things you should never do in a car with automatic transmission. One of the 5 arguments put forward (starts at 7min15) is that “there is no reason to put your car in neutral when sitting at a stop light … it’s fine to leave it in drive”.
I have always religiously put mine into neutral (or even Park) when stopped for more than a couple of seconds in the (apparently) mistaken belief I was doing the gearbox good by relieving the strain on it. ‘Not so’ says this young man …
I also thought there could be a safety issue – what if your foot slips off the brake?
What is the forum’s collective wisdom on this, please? Does it really matter one way or the other?
Thanks! It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

I put mine in neutral when stopped at traffic lights etc, Steve. The reason being that the Td6 has a resonance when stopped in gear which tends to send a low level vibration through the car. It has been mentioned previously on here.

The handbook also says not to keep it in drive when stationary with the engine running for a "prolonged" period. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

I too always put it in N unless it is obvious I will be stationary for just a few seconds.

Just seems right.  405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown

Me too, neutral when stood in traffic, lights, etc Regards
Royston

2008 4.2 Supercharged Autobiography
1994 Classic Vogue SE
1999 Rover BRM
1987 Rover Vitesse Twin Plenum

Over 30 years of driving autos, leave in drive foot brake on and enjoy.

/\ Not saying you're wrong but just doesn't sound right - surly you are placing undue wear on any clutch or such like thus reducing the service life span.

I suppose in retrospect you could also say moving box parts into N does the same to lifespans so the question is what is the correct procedure according to the manufacturer - anyone know? 405 AB exec seats Baltic and Cirrus
93 RR Classic efi

Remember it's easier to get forgiveness than permission!

Gone in order:
4.4 TDV8 SE - gone to a good home
93 Classic hard dash Plymouth Blue
03 L322 Oslo Blue
2000 Disco TD5 ES Epsom Green
98 P38 Rioja Red
89 Classic Cairngorm Brown

I quoted the handbook but "prolonged" isn't defined. On the Disco 2 I leave it in drive but will continue to go into N in the FF unless, as you say, only stopping for a few seconds. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

Put mine into neutral, when stopped at lights etc.
as above the handbook states to do it.
I did watch a video on you tube, not sure if it was posted on here, but it concerned the tc. American chap was explaining to a group of students what happens when you wind the tc up on the brake, the temperature increases really rapidly and can overheat the oil in no time.
so I did have a good think, and apart from the above mentioned resonance on the td6, on a smaller scale, the tc is trying to push the car forwardand could create a lot of heat in the oil, so could be one of the reasons it's in the handbook.
greg.

Ah yes, John (Weegie) and gregdav, you’re right. My Owner Manual says: “DO NOT allow the vehicle to remain stationary for any length of time with a drive gear selected and the engine running (always select ‘N’ if the engine is to idle for a prolonged period).”
Seems pretty clear to me (apart from the definition of “prolonged”!). I guess I should’ve read the good book before asking
Anyway, I’m going back to sticking it into neutral unless it’s only a brief stop, as has (mostly!) been said above.  It's "bébéchoon", ackcherly, with accents. 'Steve' to my chums.
20 years ownership of Solihull products, ALL GONE NOW, sniff!
Current motor: Suzuki S-Cross 4WD auto, 1.4 petrol. Oh so reliable! 7 years now and no problems. Oh, all right then, a leaking shocker replaced under guarantee.
Previous:
TD6 HSE L322 Auto FF
2.5 TDi 4-door Classic
Disco II
And my 1st Rangie: in 1995, a 2-door VM 2.5 diesel Classic
Not to mention the Lada Niva before those. (I said not to mention it!)

I think the highway code wants you to place the car in N and apply the handbrake on an auto too

I have to admit, I’m lazy and don’t but i think you probably should

Advanced driver training wants you to go to neutral and handbrake on (manual or auto).

Makes sense as not too much can go wrong in this state.

But I am always out of gear and handbrake on if lingering for more than a few seconds .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Neutral and handbrake every time because i'm lazy and can't be arsed keeping my foot on the brake for a minute and a half newer auto boxes now disengage drive when stationary to save fuel so if the manufacturers do it and Land Rover recommends it it must be " neutral engaged and handbrake on" . And i have NEVER had a problem with my electric handbrake because I use it , all the time  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
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