I have had a problem with judder under breaking for about six months now. The disk and pads were new Land Rover and about six months old at the time the judder started. Following a suggestion from another FFRR forum member I Tried scrubbing off the pads with some brisk breaking and initially thought this had worked, but I was kidding myself.

The disks and pads have since been replaced again and the problem still persists.

The bushes have been checked by my Land Rover Independent garage, they say okay!

There is no play in the steering

The pistons move freely in the callipers and have all just been cleaned again

The judders is felt through the body of the car, through my seat and not the steering wheel or brake pedal

What should I check next?

Am I right in thinking there was an issue with the D3, something to do with hydro bushes. Is this applicable to FFRR?

You need the discs checking for Disc Thickness Variation (DTV) - which is often a cause of judder.
If the thickness of the discs varies as they are rotated, the caliper pistons will be forced in & out, causing potential minor pedal pulsing, but worse the braking torque will vary also, causing a noticeable vibration through the suspension.
A dial gauge needs to be fixed in contact with each brake disc surface as it's rotated (wheel off).
Some garages should have the equipment to read the thickness directly, rather than measure each surface independently of the other. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 151,000 miles & now sold
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Check your rear calipers too.

Check for excess heat after a run, it’s not uncommon for the juddering to feel like it’s coming from the front but is the rear calipers binding.

The fact you say it feels like the car is juddering and not the wheel would have me checking the back brakes. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Thanks for the replies, I haven't looked at the rear brakes at all and they are still the originals at 80K miles.

I had juddering too that was eventually eliminated by replacing the rear discs and pads having already replaced the fronts along with the lower suspension arms.

My money is on your problem being at the rear.  Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

If they are the originals at that mileage then they are due for a change, but I would also check the calipers aren’t binding.

Quite a common problem and reman calipers aren’t too dear, my car had had them changed just before I bought it at 35k There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

I had this too. But I know exactly what caused it on my L322 - a bent brake disk.

While new tires were being fitted last year the (non) expert mechanic didn't lock the trolley jack under the left rear and the disk hit the ground just after the wheel was taken off. Fairly low speed impact, no apparent damage, but ... there is low speed judder under braking.

Back at the garage the next day a dial gauge confirmed the bend, the actual amount of bending was NOT visible to the naked eye, being less than 0.5mm across the diameter of the disk. My disks were close to the minimum thickness so had to be replaced rather than refaced. As a compromise I got the deluxe fitting for just the price of a pair of rear disks.
Deluxe fitting included -
* disk surfaces skimmed in-place for absolutely parallel faces
* calipers inspected, lubricated and fluid level adjusted after test drive/bed-in.
* handbrake assembly inspected, lubricated and adjusted

Remember, disks are a consumable, usually needing replacement about every 4 pad replacements. While disk surfaces are machined parallel by the manufacturer the stresses induced by mounting on YOUR wheel hub and the twisting caused by tightening the wheel nuts MAY result in a wavy or skewed disk; machining in place is the only way to eliminate deviation caused by the unique mounting onto your vehicle.

Bent or out of parallel disks need immediate remedy, the extra movement of the calipers on their guide pins will result in extremely rapid wear, particularly of the guide holes in the calipers (expensive to replace). If the disks are within their thickness limit a surface machining will fix a small run-out/bend.

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia