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rejo



Member Since: 10 Feb 2013
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 28

Fantastic installation. Well done👍👍👍

Post #267200 24th Jun 2014 11:43pm
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iphs



Member Since: 07 May 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 198

England 2003 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Buckingham Blue

Joe90 wrote:
To get the best of both worlds it seems a modulator for general use with a bypass switch when you need both batteries to work together ?

@iphs you will need some long starter cables! Wink


LOL Long cables are not the problem, I have a set.

It's having any idea what a modulator is or does thats the problem Rolling Eyes Rolling with laughter

Electrickery is the work of the devil.

Post #267215 25th Jun 2014 7:22am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6399

England 

Quote:
It's having any idea what a modulator is or does thats the problem


From SteveMfr's ebay link:
Quote:
Allows charging of auxiliary/leisure battery bank without discharging starter battery.
Isolates the starter battery when the engine is off to avoid discharging
Simple to fit (only requires wiring from one battery to the other).
Suitable for all types of leisure vehicle as well as agricultural and marine applications
Max amps - 140 amps
Dimensions (mm) - 68 x 68 x 54mm (LxWxH)
Battery voltage - 12 volt
Easy to install
Only 3 connections to make +pos starter battery --- +pos leisure battery --- 1 earth connection - SIMPLES!
Supplied with relay earth wire and mounting screws
2 year manufacturer's warranty.
Voltage sensing split charge relays are is easy to fit and require no connection to the vehicle alternator or other electrics. The relays sense when the starter battery is at full charge and then switch to charge the leisure battery. Simply wire the relay from your starter battery to your leisure battery.
 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #267235 25th Jun 2014 9:42am
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ianmacd



Member Since: 20 Aug 2013
Location: Sussex
Posts: 201

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Vogue TDV8 Epsom Green

Sorry to hijack this thread but I also have a 2nd battery in my tdv8 via a voltage sensing relay that allows some neat stuff (it doesn't just split when the alternator isn't charging thus allowing the faster charging optima to continue charging the starter battery when its stopped running and allows you to draw some current from the starter battery but should leave enough to start the car still as it will disconnect them before the voltage drops too low).

The problem I have now is that the optima has prolonged the requirement to replace the start battery for more than a year but I now need to. I have the added complication of how to do this compared to the procedure on the wiki with one battery.

As I can see it, I have 2 options so am looking for suggestions.
1) Disconnect the 2nd battery first (the -ve I guess) before following the procedure in the wiki
2) Leave it connected and powering all the bits and pieces and just ensure the +ve at the starter battery doesn't come into contact with any grounded metalwork.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Ian. Current: RR L322 2010
Past: RR L405 2017, RR L322 2012, 2008 & 2004, 2018 D5, 2016 Defender, 2011 D4, a few Disco2s, P38, RR Classic, couple of Disco1's, SIII SWB

Post #267273 25th Jun 2014 11:35am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6399

England 

My thinking for future working is to do this:

1. -ve off on 2nd battery
2. +ve off on 2nd battery (no waiting time)

Then normal disconnection procedure up front

Follow reverse as above .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #267391 25th Jun 2014 11:06pm
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iphs



Member Since: 07 May 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 198

England 2003 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Buckingham Blue

After yet another fiasco of not being able to start the RR after only 3 days of inactivity. I have got all the bits together to do a second battery fit out.

I have a new AGM battery with 110Ah 920amp. A DURITE Split Charge Voltage Sensitive Relay 12V 140A, battery cables and a 60 amp fuse.









The battery drops straight into the well without modification. So far so good.

Questions:

Can I connect the earth cable to the chassis on any convenient bolt. I was thinking somewhere nearer the battery location, keeping the cable run shorter . I like Joe90's fit out but would prefer not to run the earth cable around the spare wheel well to the other side of the boot?

I thought of fitting the Relay under the bonnet near to the main battery (just need to find a route from there to the boot) Any suggestions?

May fit an isolation switch but haven't made my mind up on that score.

Anything else I should consider before starting?

Post #269736 8th Jul 2014 7:46pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6399

England 

9 months on thought I would report back.

HDC Inactive not completely gone, but seems to be random about when it appears. Can leave the car for days, go out, start it and no sign of it. Use the car daily and only very occasionally get an H-I bong. No rhyme or reason to it.

Only this weekend after having not used the car for a week, started fine no bong. Following day, bong. Must be something else going on other than battery voltage? (no other faults showing) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #317030 9th Mar 2015 12:08am
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Haylands



Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 7905

England 2014 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

Joe,

Got similar "false" faults on mine after leaving it for a few days, they weren't voltage related, I put it down to moisture in a plug somewhere, probably the big ABS one under the bonnet, all was well after a good run to dry it all out and I never get them if I use it all the time...

I did take the plug apart and clean it and it has been a bit better since but not a definitive fix!!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Post #317039 9th Mar 2015 1:29am
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wayneg



Member Since: 05 Jun 2013
Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London )
Posts: 775

Australia 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Java Black

Just reading through this thread and would like to add my 2c worth. A few comments suggest using an isolator. I would say for safety please fit a circuit breaker which also acts as an isolator. It is a must when fitting a second battery, even more important if you don't have an isolating relay. I have attached a photo of my fitment, the 100amp circuit breaker on top of the battery can be opened and closed manually and is easy to access. The connection to the car is via a 140amp voltage sensing relay ( Hidden away) The connection to the car can also be easily broken via Anderson Plugs as I connect solar panels via the same when camping. The cigar lighter in the rear area has been disconnected from the car wiring and connected direct to the 2nd battery circuit breaker so I can run a fridge or other accessory's from it without concern it will be drawing power from the start battery at any time
The circuit breakers are about $10 on ebay so silly not to use one



 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Post #371595 10th Feb 2016 4:51am
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

Wayne, are you using one of Drivesafe's dual battery kits?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/156632-...y-kit.html

I was thinking about one for my L322. I had one of his SC40 dual battery controllers in my P38A. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #371596 10th Feb 2016 5:22am
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wayneg



Member Since: 05 Jun 2013
Location: South Fremantle, Australia ( ex London )
Posts: 775

Australia 2007 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Java Black

Ron, I Just got the bits from ebay, The charge controller is a Narva 140amp and was A$40, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NARVA-61092BL-V...xyPiJRi4WK Its fits sort of behind and under the rear O/S lamp nice and tidy and out of harms way. The 100a circuit breaker A$10...http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-24V-DC-Home...GRG4kwR4BQ. I had the wire and Anderson plugs.
One thing I also did was get the loom out of that area, it can be bent up and routed over the vent and under the fuse box in the rear wing quite easily. I thought that with our corrugated roads it was asking for trouble leaving it in there with the battery ready to rub through it 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Post #371601 10th Feb 2016 6:55am
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1516

Australia 2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue

Thanks Wayne. I had thought of using a VSR. I have one of those circuit breakers somewhere. I bought it from Jaycar Electronics some years back. See http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Component...r/p/SF2266 - a lot dearer there than A$10! Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #371612 10th Feb 2016 8:56am
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bgennette



Member Since: 13 Jan 2013
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 73

Australia 2003 Range Rover HSE Td6 Java Black

iphs wrote:

Questions:

Can I connect the earth cable to the chassis on any convenient bolt. I was thinking somewhere nearer the battery location, keeping the cable run shorter . I like Joe90's fit out but would prefer not to run the earth cable around the spare wheel well to the other side of the boot?


I used the rear bumper bar bolts. VERY close, LARGE (M14? M17?), long enough to easy add a cable lug and a nylock nut to.

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia

Post #489059 17th Sep 2018 6:38am
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winaje



Member Since: 05 May 2019
Location: Nth GA
Posts: 3

United States 2008 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Stornoway Grey

Hi guys, is there a spot the same for the second battery in a 2012 SC?

Post #515086 12th May 2019 2:01pm
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aterkut



Member Since: 27 Nov 2020
Location: Eskisehir
Posts: 11

Turkey 2008 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Java Black

hi;

great work, I decided to go with second battery also and bought a 140A isolator to go with but I have question

my battery on front is 110A varta and alternator on car has 150A charging capacity; should I go with max 40A battery (150-110=40) or will alternator be able to full charge a 90A second battery also

Post #587632 16th Mar 2021 6:45am
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