I got EGR fault codes after installing the blanks, never had them before. I did however monitor EGR-movement before installing the blanks, and the problem most certainly existed before installing the blanks.

I've just got to cough up the ££ to get the disabled-EGR-map from these guys.
https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/rrs-3...-road-use/ 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

Thanks Henda and S.Hafsmo.

I looked at the EGR delete patch and didn't realise it would be that expensive I might just buy the gap tool and see what the codes are, clear them and go from there. Let's face it the gap tool will get used going forward.

UPDATE:
Got hold of a code reader and codes are all related to EGR which is throwing up the EML. I called a local indie who I was wanting to try outwith this situation. He advised that RR's pre 2007 will not throw up the light after physically blanking the EGR's. The good news is he can do the EGR delete map out for £100 plus VAT which is reasonable. The not so good news is that he can't fit me in until November 20th!!! The other indie I was using was also the same when booking it in for work previously it was about a month in advance booking

Evidently there's a gap in the market for another indie Land Rover in the central belt of Scotland I'd say

FURTHER UPDATE:
EML has gone out/off with no adjustments. We'll see how things pan out as I'm doing 130 mile trip on Friday 3.6 TDV8 - on probation
L322 Supercharged - gone
P38 - 4.0se - RIP

110k miles/3.6 tdv8 Starting to consider my options with the EGRs.

I thought about using a Winns EGR cleaner or Revive turbo cleaner. Decided against it. So, top of my list would be reconditioned EGRs.

Other options are
1) taking them out and cleaning them properly (as long as the motors are working ok).
2) blanking.
3) replacing with new.


Having read this thread I have some questions...

Q1: Andys post on 29th March with the photo - look at the crud on that pipe. Presumably that is now staying in the egr/exhaust. How can this be a good thing? Will that not continue to build up and cause other issues long term? It HAS to go somewhere. Presumably down the exhaust. If the EGRs are clogging with this, then removing one of the outlets for this gunk means that build up of gunk could me more severe. No? Am i wrong ?

Q2: Hena says that there is no longer an EGR fault. I don't understand how this blanking can clear the fault. If the EGRs get gunked up and cause a fault, then with no where for the gunk to go, how can the problem not be getting worse and the error has cleared? If the EGRs are giving a low voltage signal/error then blanking wouldn't affect that as far as I can see.

Maybe I'm being dense, and my common sense is back to front.

Initially I thought blanking seemed a good idea, but with these questions in my mind I am more likely to go ahead with getting the valves out and either cleaning or replacing.

Q3: Anyone know of any reconditioned EGR suppliers?

Thanks
Mark

I blanked mine and so far its the best £35 quid I've ever spent in a long time! I had intermittent EML post blanking but now the EML has gone completely.

Blanking gave me:
1. No rough idle
2. No excessive white smoke when starting sometimes
3. No hesitiation when pressing accelerator at roundabouts etc
4. Sounds way better and pulls like a train for an almost 3t vehicle with 145k (I only use BP diesel BTW)

For £35 and roughly 1.5hrs of work you could try it and see for yourself. Replacement costs of EGR's is not low, and then you're still putting dirty air back into the engine.

Cleaning MAP & MAF sensors can help things too which I've done.

You can also get them mapped out for circa £100 from a decent indie. 3.6 TDV8 - on probation
L322 Supercharged - gone
P38 - 4.0se - RIP

Before considering reconditioned EGRs, it might be worth remembering that the worst possible failure mode of the EGRs is that the valve head breaks up & gets digested by the engine & turbos.
It appears to be rare, but it does happen (I know 1 victim).

With a reconditioned egr you'll have no idea how much use the valve head has already had & how much life it may have left before possible valve head failure.
No warranty for it will ever cover the £5k + cost of a replacement engine & turbos.

I've fitted blanking plates to our 130k miles 3.6 TDV8 - which reduces the chance of broken egr bits going straight into the air intake, but they could still go into the turbos.
I've decided I'll take that risk, but it would be better to have a software delete to stop the egrs operating & therefore breaking up. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Good info Pawl

Never thought of the bits going into the turbos

Maybe I'll get mines mapped out too just to be on the safe side - £100 vs minced turbos  3.6 TDV8 - on probation
L322 Supercharged - gone
P38 - 4.0se - RIP

RRLuvva, yes, but you don't know what is going on inside the blanked unit. Every action has a reaction. That gunk is still building up and has to cause other errors at some point unless you get a delete. .But then you have still blanked off one of the exit routes for that gunk....so now it is is going down towards your CAT. Might be fine...but does anyone know for sure?

Pawl...thanks for the pointer. In that case I would expect a reconditioned part to have a new valve head fitted and if I am lucky enough to find one I will ask this - cheers. IMO reconditioned should be as good as new, and not as good as second hand. To my mind that is what i have always understood "reconditioned" to mean.However, I cannot find any reconditioned EGRS at the moment.

There are after market parts on Rimmerbros that are quite cheap. It would be nice to think that someone making an aftermarket part has intentionally set out to make one that wont destroy the engine. Probably unlikely, but someone might spot an opportunity and make one There are a lot of RRs out there that could benefit. ALso ECP have them at £355 a pair when factoring in discount. Not sure they are LR parts though. So, all in all about £800 at my local indy. I reckon that is worth it tbh.

If someone has a failed one they have removed, I am happy to have a look at what the options are for repair/recondition and even making one that will last rather than kill the engine. It can't be that hard.

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If correct, that would answer why it is an improvement - thanks ur20v.

Then to stop any further errors, spend £100 - £200 on having the ECU updated. Food for thought.

As you all say, the main reason is to stop the damage to the engine/turbos. I supposed if i was to replace the EGRs and be lucky enough to be able to sell the car at some point in the future a subsequent owner is quite likely going to end up blowing the engine up.

Just thinking aloud...weighing up the pros/cons
Not trying to be mean, but when people buy expensive cars at low prices they sometimes don't have a budget for proper maintenance. So, what likelihood that the next owner would spend the money to replace the EGRs when the car is approaching160k-200k miles and the EGRS are due for a second change?? Hmmm... If they dont know about the risks...POP goes the engine. That is not a legacy I want to give my rather lovely RR. So, in order to future proof that particular aspect, for as long as possible, the delete seems the way forward. Mm...The scales are now tipping slightly in favour of a delete.

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I have decided to join the club. Parts ordered, magnetic pick up tool ordered. Will check to see if I have a T30 torx. Thanks everyone, makes me happy to be able to find all this good information. I am old enough to remember life before the internet when getting info like this, and answers to questions was very hard indeed. So....

Usually I would get about 26.9 MPG average, but recently have only been doing really local drives and it is hilly around here. MPG was worryingly down to about 24.9. I changed from Texaco/Tesco dirtydiesels and put two tanks of Shell vpower and no difference. Also a little juddering sometimes within the first minute of running the engine and manoeuvring under braking> Had the faults checked during a service and there was one side giving an EGR fault. These things are what made me worry about my EGRs. I thought maybe a good run up the motorway on vpower might help me understand if my MPG was really down on what it should be, and also that maybe the better diesel will help clear things a bit - my juddering symptoms are present for only a few seconds and not everytime - maybe I will get lucky with some Shell vpower . ...so I took it for a 50 mph run up 4 junctions of the M1 and back and made 39.9 mpg - 40 mpg heading north and a little less on the way back....averaged at 39.9. Awesome.


So, consensus seems to be the blanking plates can give 2-3 extra mpg.

I know the following question is not easy to give a definitive answer for...

My question... is that 2-3 mpg on top of a clogged EGR MPG or 2-3 on top of what the car should be doing...i.e. am I likely to see "26.9 +2" or is it going to be "23 +2" mpg?



Can you guys imagine how giddy I am going to be if I do that same run and get 43 mpg

Having made the decision I am now quite excited about not having to worry about this cloud of doom any more. I had another car in the past that had similar clouds of doom hanging over it. I want to be free
Cheers
Mark

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Mines on 189,000 now with no turbo smoke on hard acceleration, starts and runs no problem but I think fuel consumption is about the same so far so good

All done. Tested for about 60 miles so far. All good.

UR20V - I have to ask again, having now removed and blanked off. The gunk on the exhaust side that i mentioned earlier - which you said "no recirculating exhaust gas to mix with the crank case ventilation oil vapor." - I don't see how this can be true.

On one side of the blanking, the gunk has built up, and removing a simple connecting pipe and blanking that off is not going to stop it building. In fact, it now has, as I suspected, one less place to dispose of that gunk. It absolutely has got to build up behind that exhaust side blanking plate, and continually.

So, this will have consequences. Not sure what they are, maybe the now defunct EGR will just become a gunk repository, until such time as there is no more room for any more gunk, and then it will start to build up outside of the EGR.

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