H all, have replaced my td6 with a 2011 tdv8 vogue se and after just over 2 weeks am having battery problems with low battery warning on dash, up till now it always starts but came back from a four day break and tried to start car no joy, have booked it in tomorrow to small car dealer I got it of,have looked up all the posts on this issue and to bet of knowledge it is better to have an agm battery? The guy says he put a brand new battery init as the last one had been drained when he had not closed Boot shut tight, he replaced with. A dagenite da017 850 cca 100ah, am I correct that this is not good enough for this car and would this be the main reason it will be draining down within 5 days? He thinks there is a drain? Will take it to him tomorrow and he says he will take it to an Indy for check.
Anyway other than that love it, will see what tomorrow brings

even my 2004 L322 has a 950 Crank rating. 850 is tooo low!

It should be an 019 AGM Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

there are other threads about this issue.

my 2010 3.6 needed a battery a few years ago and I took advice of here and got a normal lead acid battery (the biggest I could fit in the car). it ended in tears because the charging system is different depending on which battery the car was designed to be used with and I should have bought an AGM battery. I *think* your car will require an AGM battery


anyone giving battery advice: please point out the above factor

Thanks for your reply’s, as I thought it would be an agm battery,will see what he says tomorrow 👍

You may still have a drain.....

Test with clamp meter on the negative cable from battery to earth when turning off the car (disable [enable] bonnet switch with a brick) If significant current (more than still drawing after red light by gear selector goes out) .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Sorry breaking in to this thread which may help others . must have read this thread three times.
Oh dear the dreaded battery drain !
Having bought a new battery back in October to beat the Scottish winter .But no , so in the middle of changing the FSR . I have just ordered a new one but not convinced it is causing the drain.
I have sat in and listened to the whirring both with the FSR CONNECTED and unconnected , both ways, the vehicle shuts down and the fan whirring stops.
I also , because its mentioned in this thread, .investigated the wiper connections , someone suggested that because it parks in the wrong place then the bcu remains active as it points to sky waiting for its resting place .
Can anyone throw any suggestions out there.

Just read the thread about endless battery issues and went to the link on fuse testing for current draw.
After 10-20 mns at 3.amps , then shut down on vehicle I was left with a small amount of draw at .64 amps. There was no fuse to show any loss below that , so I am guessing my battery must be ok . Further monitoring is required.

Final reading after shut down .11 amps. Truly think there is an intermittent drain I am not catching.

Update , after much waiting and pulling fuses, inadvertently blowing the multimeter ones and waking up the car from sleep , I found one fuse to drop .119 amps to .016 . So as much as Iwould try , I can’t drop this anymore.
in the scheme of things is this value enough to accept. That’s like 16 milieamps. This is dropped by the rear wiper fuse .

Hi, I bought a new AGM battery in June 2019, I have been having trouble with a suspension BONG after clearing faults with my IID tool I could sill not work it out?
Took the car to local JLR and was told Battery is bad? £400 later still a problem now I have a fight on my hands? 1 old battery warranty, JLR, not correctly diagnosing the problem?

Yeah new battery October from Halfords mine , so you still might have a drain somewhere if new one is letting you down . I will travel without my rear wiper for a while and see if my battery lasts better. I also changed the HEVAC Fsr without any difference.

A month on and still getting either a drain or bad battery.
I put the ck charger on in de sulphate mode , as This battery two days has flattened so many times I reckoned it needed it.I left it on for two days and the charge came to a satisfactory level.Went to collect some bike tyres , 3mls away click and collect by the way. Got back home and started to inflate the tyres using the rear 12v socket , after a minute of this , I thought I should start the car for extra power and to keep the battery up, and it failed to turn over. Flat Again!

So I have taken it out and dropped it off at Halfords where I bought it. May take a few days they said to test , we will see.
I am hoping it fails obviously but one thing I will check is checking the Alternator for drain and for its charging ability.

Having suffered the shame of the failed start (and the walk to the station) over the last couple of weeks and with the temperature dropping and only driving a mile or so to the station every morning which hasn't helped, so I've bit the bullet and bought this,

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx9020/

Not the cheapest option, but hopefully it will sort out the issues I've been having, a word of warning though whilst it does fit in the battery tray it is very tight. I had the 400a fuse holder that sat at right angles to the the positive end of the battery and wouldn't sit where it did. So I've had to modify this as a temp fix till i get the new parts to make it a permanent solution, as well as the original positve clamp not seeming to properly grip the battery post I'll post a copuple of pics when I do the mod.

Fingers crossed

After my third go at chasing warranty , I came to conclusion that this Yuasa battery at 100a/h was not up to and after repeated reconditioning via the charger it has finally lost its capacity of power.
Looking at this situation , Land Rover seems to recommend a 110a/h. So no more trouble since . Clearly they are selling the wrong product Halfords !Yes tight fit those 110’s
Be careful to open battery lead and clamp to allow full locating depth.
Cheers Pat

Last edited by alfapat on 9th Nov 2020 8:12am. Edited 1 time in total

Just an observation. I've left my vehicle for over 3 weeks parked up whilst away at work and found no problem with starting. However, if working on car, which involves shutting and opening doors, the battery will die in fairly short order. I try to remember to connect up my ctek to prevent this but.....!
I know I should think about changing the myriad of internal lights with LEDs but I reckon the various ECUs that burst into life along with their respective cooling fans don't help. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

alfapat wrote:

... Land Rover seems to recommend a 110a/h. ...
Cheers Pat

I have looked and looked in my owner's manual to find the Land Rover recommended battery specification and all I found was: -

"REPLACEMENT BATTERIES
Only fit a battery of the correct type and rating. Fitting an incorrect battery may result in a fire, or damage to the electrical system. If you are in any doubt when fitting a battery seek qualified assistance."

Can anyone point me in the rigth direction to find the definative Land Rover recommened battery specifications?

Many thanks. 2010 Range Rover TDV8 Baltic Blue Autobiography (2011 MY) - SOLD
1960 Land Rover SII SWB SW
2020 BMW R1250 RT LE
2021 Triton ST-125 (Monkey Bike)