One of my locking wheel nuts has had a layer of paint taken off and has surface rust on it. Does anybody know if it is possible to replace an individual locking wheel nut? I'm assuming there is only a certain amount of Land Rover locking wheel nut patterns so maybe a replacement is possible without having to change all of them

It should tell you what type it is on the socket you use to remove it. I think that the early ones are marked A, B, C, D & E

Jim

To be honest most folk on the forum, myself included, remove the locking wheel nuts due to the chan e of them failing and then having to be cut off.

Nothing like getting a flat in the dead of night, on a rain swept road across the moors and then have your locking wheel nut fail......

Jim

I've just got rid of my locking wheel nuts and replaced them with normal ones. 2017 SDV8 Autobiography

Yep, I got rid of the locking nuts, too. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Ditch all locking nuts
Check all other ones have not swollen. If the socket is tight to go on then replace that nut.
 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Yup, had to get a specialist to remove mine , they are awful , took them off.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Why are they so bad on a Range Rover? Never had any issue before with locking wheel nuts?

The locking nut is a 2 part design. Sometimes, particularly on older car with original locking wheel nuts, the top part with the notches detaches from the bottom solid part. This results in the top part just spinning and you then have to cut the locking wheel nut off.

Jim

sgreenham wrote:

Thanks for all the replies guys. Why are they so bad on a Range Rover? Never had any issue before with locking wheel nuts?

Same on Disco 3 and 4 and Sports. Same design of nut 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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The tyre shop I use warned that if the locking nuts are overtightened they can be a real problem to get off, easily done with air tools etc. They recommend only hand tools be used, saying that the air tools are also a contributor to the nuts swelling, on the basis that they blow damp air under the nuts. Anyway, I've removed the locking nuts on the last two RRs and just have standard ones. I'm not one for jet washing or chemical cleaners when the wheels are on the car either. Only Range Rovers since 1988

Replace your nuts every year  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Is there a metallurgic reason LR don't use solid stainless?

Stainless more brittle?
Or reactive between the steel stud and the alloy wheel?
Something to do with loading rate?

What do other (heavy) cars use?

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

It's impact guns that knacker the nuts - they rattle them loose.

Mine have been fine since I insisted on hand tools only.

When I asked the dealer foreman about solid stainless nuts he advised against, saying stainless would be worse for galvanic corrosion. That seemed counter-intuitive to me so I searched online, and there was some evidence from the US construction industry to support it.

Stainless nuts are good though for Defenders with steel wheels, where galvanic corrosion is not an issue. Only Range Rovers since 1988