Hi all. Went to view my perfect spec L322 today, hoping to buy. it is a cogue (no radar cruise or other dodgy stuff that never seems to work as intended, and 19inch wheels, perfect. Mechanically it seemed great, suspension was fine, engine and gearbox fine, no smoke above 2500rpm, there was a buzz/rattle behind the dash somewhere and drivers seat foam needs replacing (im a giant at 6.3 and 22stone) so fair enough on a car with 90k. I'm confident its the real mileage as the service book looks good and the mot's line up nicely.

I expected to see a bit of bubbling rust on the bottom of the tailgate but there was bubbling all around the rear aches (not visible until you climbed in there), the guy who owned the land rover specialist it was for sale at insisted it was quite good for "one of these at that age" but he's a car sales man, so obviously i cant believe a word he says.

So, i ask the collective voice of this forum, just how rusty should the rear arches be on a 9 year old car? It's a shame, this is the first one i've viewed. I like it, its exactly what i want, and its at a price i can afford.

I should add, the arches still felt very solid, just extensive bubblyness, i guess still salvagable?

I’d avoid, there are some relatively rust-free examples out there, worth searching for.

Bubbling around the rear arches usually means horrors lurking under the sill trims. And they rust from the inside out.

fanders ---------------------------------------
2009 4.2 SC Buckingham Blue
2021 Hilux 2.4

I'm with Fanders.

I belive you can expect some corrosion at the front of the rear arches which should be minor, can be corrected, and has on my 2011. If it's all around the rear arches that does not sound good to me. Have a search on rear arches and see what horrors can be found on some recent threads. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Boot is par for the course, but needs to be got on top of. Really rusts from the inside so needs sorting out right and not just patching up.

The rear arches go against the door, start with a few bits or surface rust. If it’s more than that then it’s not typical. If it’s just on the lip by the door, and hasn’t spread further round the arch it can probably be sorted simply. Anything more walk away. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

I bought a 7 year old L322 from a main dealer for a substantial sum. After buying I realised it had the exact problem you describe. It was repaired and along with preventative measures, didn’t return.

Accepting that Fanders (a respected forum member) might have a point, there are also many threads on this forum as to how to deal with the issue. What I wouldn’t do is buy unless the seller agreed to make good and also warranty the making good for a reasonable period of time.

I’ve a July registered 2012...

Upper tailgate had warranty work, long before my time due to rust.

I had both rear wheel arches treated and painted due to rust at the beginning of last year.

I ditched the fixed side steps, and did a deep clean on the sills...there was no rust, thankfully. Plenty of mud though.

No rust on the front arches. No rust anywhere else.

So a mixed bag. From what I’ve read on the forum, the later the car the more rust. My worry is now UV damaged and the odd hail storm in Spain. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Baltic Blue, Jet interior
1997 P38 2.5 DSE auto & 1998 P38 2.5 DT Manual
1988 Vogue 3.5 EFI - Manual, gone.
2004 Volvo C70 2.0T convertible, had since new.
2007 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Sport Roadster/Coupé, had since new.
2024 Mini Cooper S cabrio, JCW kit, 2.0, DCT auto

Avoid. Plenty of rust free ones out there.
I took my sill trims off in April and cleaned and waxed thoroughly inside and out...do that on a rust free one when you buy one
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic54121-30.html 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Last edited by DrRob on 21st Jul 2020 8:02am. Edited 1 time in total

My 2010 is rust free

Thanks guys. This example is about 2 or 3 grand cheaper than most of the examples that are comparable on paper and it sounds like its not with bothering to be honest. I'm not willing to pay that extra 3 grand. Theres another one locally, unfortunately its got bigger wheels and side steps but im sure i can fix that in time. Aside from that particular example, i think i'll have to pass on a 4.4 tdv8, maybe look at a 6 grand 3.6, or even a petrol one, and sod the costs of towing, knowing that i'm its final owner (which i guess is good because i can use it more like a workhorse, and scratch it up on green lanes without much of a care.

BTW my radar cruise works superbly, one of my favourite toys on the car...!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thats good to know. I had a lexus LS460 and the radar cruise was terrible, it effectively forced poor lane discipline and on a right hand bend on a motorway it'd hit the brakes when it saw a lorry in lane 1.

I did use radar cruise on a hire vw polo in france last year, and it seemed better but I'm wary of it.

Radar CC works perfect in my 2011 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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The biggest problem I have with radar/adaptive cruise control is other peoples erratic driving, which means you end up varying your speed more than you would without it on. But the RR is unique (in my experience) in being able to turn the distance part off and work as normal cruise control, which I have done a couple of times.

One annoying thing about the RR system, which is different from all the others I've used is it always defaults to long distance when you turn it on, so if you activate it when you're a normal distance away from someone it brakes straight away. It doesn't work as smoothly as the system in my wife's Golf R either, which does a better job of anticipating the need to brake and easing off the throttle earlier.

Interestingly (to me) the closest setting is nearly 'Audi' following distance whereas the VAG system in the Golf leaves a gap big enough for even slightly rude drivers to get into in the closest setting. MY23 Panamera E-Hybrid
MY19 SDV8 Autobiography - Sold