My old P38 DSE had the classic hot start problem and now it seems that over the last few days my 2004 TD6 has started doing the same thing? It has only happened on the last few hot days and has been fine on the first start of the day or when the engine has cooled after sitting. However, after the car reaches temperature it has to crank for quite some time (3, maybe 4 times longer) than usual.

Is there a common problem that can be solved with this like with the old P38? '04 Adriatic Blue Td6 Vogue
Previous - '96 P38 DSE, '07 D3 HSE, '09 FL2 HSE, '00 FL1 (and many non-LR cars over the years!)

The issue seems to have got worse now, as soon as the car reaches temperature it struggles to start once stopped - just turns over and over and it *usually* fires up on the 4/5th attempt but I'm worried about the wear on the battery.

I've ordered a new crankshaft position sensor - any idea where it is located in the engine? Thank you. '04 Adriatic Blue Td6 Vogue
Previous - '96 P38 DSE, '07 D3 HSE, '09 FL2 HSE, '00 FL1 (and many non-LR cars over the years!)

i cant help with your problem but i can let you know that there are WM downloads in the wiki which could help . ... - .- -.




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I had this problem with my Td6. It never got to the point of being terribly bad, but if I stopped after a couple of hours towing our caravan it wouldn’t restart until it had cooled down a bit. I found I could speed up the cooling down by stripping the engine cover and associated bits around the top of the engine

I diagnosed the problem to a failing injector (probably more than one). I used this as a reason (excuse) to get rid and purchase my TDV8 instead. A very good decision

I also encountered another TD6 with the same problem in the queue for a cross channel ferry. Two chaps had towed a caravan from Scotland to Dover and couldn’t restart the engine. I helped remove some bits in the top of the engine and by the time the ferry boarding started about 30 mins later, it had cooled enough to start.

Hope this helps. I would recommend looking at fuel pressures and injector live values to try to work out which injector(s) are failing. I gather they can be a right pain to remove, so you probably only want to remove those that are failing. Current: 2010 Range Rover L322
Vogue SE, TDV8 3.6, Bournville
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Now gone: 2002 Range Rover L322
Vogue, TD6, Giverney Green

Thanks for the info.

Did you have any issues when it was running? It seems to be running absolutely fine otherwise, just not starting well when warm. I had the same issue with a Mercedes years ago, hence why I have gone down the crankshaft position sensor route first. It's being looked at tomorrow so hopefully there should be some sort of update then - whether good or bad. '04 Adriatic Blue Td6 Vogue
Previous - '96 P38 DSE, '07 D3 HSE, '09 FL2 HSE, '00 FL1 (and many non-LR cars over the years!)

I had no issues when it was running, just impossible to start when hot. Current: 2010 Range Rover L322
Vogue SE, TDV8 3.6, Bournville
-----------------------------------
Now gone: 2002 Range Rover L322
Vogue, TD6, Giverney Green

This was my exact start point for failing injectors . Start great 1st time , then progressively got to the stage it would not start after hot. It did start to judder too , better get it looked as soon as tbh.

Had the crankshaft position sensor fitted today, it didn't fix the issue to we did the dull injector leak off test and just as others have said, that seems to be the issue. Injector number 6 needs to be replaced so a new one is going to be ordered tonight to hopefully get fitted on Friday. '04 Adriatic Blue Td6 Vogue
Previous - '96 P38 DSE, '07 D3 HSE, '09 FL2 HSE, '00 FL1 (and many non-LR cars over the years!)