Great thread Christian, I love reading through content like this.
I think I may have a similar issue you had with those lower arms. The dealer I bought my Westie from changed them as they were an advisory on the MOT they had had done when preparing it for sale (which, at the time, I thought was good of them). It's not so much of a creak but a dink. It's at slow or next to no speed usually when reversing onto our drive.
RR Westminster 2012 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey
LR Freelander 2 TD4e HSE Stornoway Grey - gone but not forgotten
Latest update is a bit of polishing of the old girl to see how the body work comes out, there are a few digs in the paintwork which cannot be polished out but I wanted to get rid of the swirls and light scratching.
I washed the car first and then used Megs clay bar with some BH QD to lube it up, I'm always amazed how much crud is still embedded in the paintwork after a wash and dry.
Then several passes with various Menzerna compounds, followed by some Black Hole Glaze, then on to BH DSW. Only took a couple of hours as it was a quick going over. I really need to get some decent warm wind free days to properly go over the whole thing again.
The difference between the polished bonnet and the wing!
Christian.
Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4
My next instalment will be the removal of all the wheel arch liners and side skirts to check for occasion and to coat the entire underbody with cavity wax... Will upload the pictures soon.
Christian.
Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4
Brilliant thread.
Looking forward to next instalment, particularly details of any new clips etc when replacing liners and sills.
Mike.
G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair
Definitely worth doing underbody protection on them! I’ve just done it too mine. A labour of love but well worth the effort when you know it’s done
2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior
but I can't help but think what a shocking sorry state our Range Rovers are in - and yours is only 10 years old and falling apart almost in every place you look
I guess we just accept the terrible build quality in the UK
when you stand back and have a moments thought - I guess JLR reasonably think that 10 years is about the timeframe to dump your car onto some unsuspecting mug and buy another - and wait for it - yes another RR
Removed the wheelarch liners, side steps & side skirts to have a look at the corrosion and to my surprise there was nothing more than a bit of surface corrosion and some dust.
Look what is lurking under the sound deadening on the nearside wheelarch liner...
Yes you are right, that is a 10mm socket! Not mine either
Next step is to clean everything up, and apply some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to any rust patches in order to stop them progressing and prepare them for paint.
Christian.
Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4
I don't mind doing mechanicals as long as you have a good rust free example to do them too.
Sounds like you've got a great starting point and with some careful treatment now she'll be a cracker for years to come!
David.
2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior
I took down the wheelarch liner and the skirt was already off, I used a punch to knock out the pin in the middle of the jacking point, thanks Cam-tech-craig for the tip. The jack point then just pulls off, they need replacing as the pin disappears.
I hit any rust with various wire brushes and then coated in BH Hydrate 80
Second coat of H80
Hammerite over the H80 and then seam sealer applied to any areas that it should be in and waited for that to flash off - it's really quick to work with and can paint in about 90 minutes.
Once the Hammerite was dry and coated at least two times, I hit the whole lot with Bilt Hamber Dynax UB, and I mean everything, wiring, suspension, pipework everything. It's okay to use and will protect just about anything, it sets like candle wax.
Took all the bungs out along the sill and hit the entire inside with Dinitrol ML, this is really viscous and will get everywhere, sets as a brown cavity wax, you can just about see it inside as I lit up the cavity with my inspection lamp
Finally the wheelarch liner was put back up and I replaced the old edge strip with one that has a tongue along it's edge, which gives a much better seal against the wheelarch liner and helps to prevent dirt building up along there.
Christian.
Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4
That patch at the front of the wheel arch is where mine was showing surface rust too.
Great job!
Once I’ve built mine back up I’m going to do the cavities along the cills.
David.
2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior
Luckily I caught it nice and early, the corrosion was literally surface pitting only so it only required a minimum of treatment and coating.
I remember both my previous project cars, a Shogun and a Frontera and both of them needed a fair bit of welding in front of the rear whee in the arches.
Seems like it’s a common place on any car.