Large red wire highlighted is the one to the starter, cut and spliced the new cable in. Fitted with shrink cap.
 2004 TD6 - Gone
2011 4.4 TDV8

Shaun wrote:

Had a question from a member about the new cable I fitted, so a few photos attached.
Cable run carries on behind headlight, then down to subframe & Starter.

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No problems with starting over the last 3 years, just other stuff!! 2004 TD6 - Gone
2011 4.4 TDV8

Thanks,

So you have not done the relay mod then? SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

This is my setup, I decided to make a dedicated circuit directly from battery with a robust 200amp relay but with an Auto Reset Circuit Breaker rated @40amp (same as starter relay fuse)

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Shaun wrote:

Large red wire highlighted is the one to the starter, cut and spliced the new cable in. Fitted with shrink cap.

I think it is a design shortfall in the starter solenoid circuit which is further exposed by degrading wiring/contacts over time. SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

Last edited by ffrr14 on 15th May 2022 12:51pm. Edited 1 time in total

The Crank profile looks different, i suspect it is due to inadequate solenoid contact

Before Mod

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Update:

Car continues to crank strongly, even with low SOC.

This perticular mod is highly recomended for the 4.4TDV8 in my opinion and likely prevent starter issues. SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

Having lack of start with lowish (~12.3v with accessories on) battery - starter and battery changed and was pointed to this thread.
I measured the resistance of the red starter wire and on my car it was 0.2 ohms - the 3 meters of 50A thinwall automotive wire i ran in parralel did't register any ohms on my fairly decent brymen meter.

Spliced the wire into the existing red wire in the fuse box, ran the wire behind the headlamp, then followed the subframe onto the engine near the steering rack and then followed the OEM harness towards the starter.

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Measuring resistance on a passive circuit won't give any meaningful diagnostic clues unless the wiring is degraded significantly, volt drop measurement with a reliable meter, leads and good connections is the only way to properly diagnose these sort of issues. I use Fluke meters and dataloggers costing a reassuring amount and are calibrated every six months, i'm not sure I'd put too much faith in unverified readings from 'prosumer' level kit, even if it produces pretty graphs on a phone.
Despite technology, electrical faults are still the same as 100 years ago, connection, corrosion & consumption

The pretty graphs as you put it are from a cheap datalogging device and is handy to see what’s going on and keeps a history in order to try and determine any patterns or eliminate areas - it’s not a precision instrument, but it’s not bad.

I have current clamps, current shunts, digital scopes and a decent calibrated meter that is more accurate than the fluke equivalent - but I cant drag all that crap out the workshop trying to track down an intermittent fault that may not happen for a week or more

This £25 gadget can show you the exact voltages during the 1 second crank, I have an oscilloscope - but that’s an expensive nerd luxury that few can justify.

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Great job mezo, you’re definitely adding value to the forum with your approach! I really do hope your new cable gives better starting consistency and allows you to better fault find any potential charging issues on the other thread. Also, if you still get the odd no-start then it will be easy to just add a new relay to provide a 12V feed directly from battery +ve to solenoid. I’m looking forward to hearing how this fix works out for you 👍 Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

I too have added the parallel wire, soldered in from fuse box to trigger wire, and can report that it’s works every time… I’m only a few weeks into this, and want to confirm it’s a long term fix, a bit later on. It’s certainly an easy solution.

mezo wrote:

... from a cheap datalogging device and is handy to see what’s going on and keeps a history in order to try and determine any patterns or eliminate areas - it’s not a precision instrument, but it’s not bad.

...
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