As most of you will know; if you try to remove injector 8 from a TDV8 it will foul the bodywork and you won't be able to remove it.

I know splitting the injector or removing the engine mount and jacking up the engine are possible routes but they both have their drawbacks. Splitting the injector risks killing it (ask me how I know!) and dropping the engine mount requires the hands of a 3 year old.

So here is a top tip that worked a treat for me....

1. Put the suspension as low as it will go (even better if you have an IID tool as you can get it into the "bump" position
2. Jack up the vehicle from the front LH jacking point until the front LH road-wheel is just about to lose contact with the ground.
3. Safety first - temporarily put an axle stand under the front of the chassis just in case the jack lets go.
4. From under the vehicle; insert a sturdy bar vertically down to the ground from the bottom of the LH engine mount. You'll see a handy flat area on the bottom of the engine mount. Chock the bar if necessary to keep it in place.
5. From top of vehicle remove the 5 bolts securing the black plastic battery surround. You need to lift it slightly from its mounting but you don't need to remove it completely.
6. Lower the jack slowly and carefully. The engine will rise in the bodywork as the sturdy bar takes the weight of the engine. Don't go crazy here only lower the jack as much as you need for the injector to clear.
7. Once the height is correct as per point 6 you will be able to wiggle out the injector past the brake pipes and under the battery surround.

Hope someone finds this useful.
l

Last edited by nick4275 on 1st Sep 2023 11:35am. Edited 1 time in total

Sounds like a good plan

Like that, much prefer this to taking the injector apart 2007 TDV8 Vogue SE
2005 BMW E63 645ci
2009 5.0 Supercharged autobiography
2024 Porsche Macan

nick4275 wrote:

As most of you will know; if you try to remove injector 8 from a TDV8 it will foul the bodywork and you won't be able to remove it.

I know splitting the injector or removing the engine mount and jacking up the engine are possible routes but they both have their drawbacks. Splitting the injector risks killing it (as I have done previously) and dropping the engine mount requires the hands of a 3 year old.

So here is a top tip that worked a treat for me....

1. Put the suspension as low as it will go (even better if you have an IID tool as you can get it into the "bump" position
2. Jack up the vehicle from the front LH jacking point until the front LH road-wheel is just about to loose contact with the ground.
3. Safety first - temporarily put an axle stand under the front of the chassis just in case the jack lets go.
4. From under the vehicle; insert a sturdy bar vertically down to the ground from the bottom of the LH engine mount. You'll see a handy flat area on the bottom of the engine mount. Chock the bar if necessary to keep it in place.
5. From top of vehicle remove the 5 bolts securing the black plastic battery surround. You need to lift it slightly from its mounting but you don't need to remove it completely.
6. Lower the jack slowly and carefully. The engine will rise in the bodywork as the study bar takes the weight of the engine. Don't go crazy here only lower the jack as much as you need for the injector to clear.
7. Once the height is correct as per point 6 you will be able to wiggle out the injector past the brake pipes and under the battery surround.

Hope someone finds this useful.
l

Sorry for not responding sooner, only just seen this post.

The tip came from me actually doing the job so I know it definitely works.

If I recall correctly the reason I used a bar instead of just jacking the engine is twofold. Firstly the access underneath is very restricted so getting a jack into the right place is impossible. Secondly, you're wanting to lift only one side of the engine i.e. tilting as much as possible rather than lifting it straight up. That's why its important to get the bar onto the "sweet spot" as I've described.

There are some who will say you can split the solenoid from the injector and get it out that way - and - indeed you can - I did this on my first attempt and despite being really careful the injector wouldn't work properly after reassembly. It wasn't easy to tell it was faulty from just looking and listening but IID tool showed a massive offset reading compared to the other 7 cylinders. I then replaced the injector using my jacking method with a second hand one and all was sorted, offset value returned to the same as the other 7.

Good luck

Did someone tried this method with TDV8 4.4 engine?

Here's a YouTuber that has managed to remove Injector 8 using the engine jacking method.
Life as Usual L322 Range Rover 3.6 TDV8 - No.8 Fuel Injector Removal

It looks quite simple to be fair so I would probably do it his way when I get round to needing to do this at some point in the coming year on my 4.4 TDV8. However, as you will see from one of his later videos, he is now struggling with Fuel Injector No.4. Does anyone know how to get to the engine mount on this side?

He has done a multi-part series doing some pretty involved work and just working it our for himself as he goes along. I'm sure some might want to criticise him or his style, but I think he's just super-enthusiastic and he's trying his best to be informative and entertaining so I say best of luck to him. I've learned a huge amount from his videos so far and, like others such as Christian and Vera on LR Time or Sam from Sam's Motor & Machine, there's a growing community of YouTube content creators who are making videos that add real value to this community of enthusiasts. Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

official way is to loose mounts and disconnect a/c and cooling lines, then jack a little through oil pan.