Thanks Phil for the info re plug and play.
I'll shall do as instructed when I replace it.

Further research I did last night I found a transmission company in Australia that has the New Venture Transfer Case " alltranz.com.au". I have sent them an email to see if they have just the actuator for sale,as they list that as a "part". Was thinking if I do get it,I'll put it into my one and see if that will work it.

Thanks for your help and wisdom,very much appreciated.

cheers
littlecub

RRPhil,
Your advise please.
My new 2nd hand NV225 turned up today.
Got car up on ramps so I could have a look and got the old one off.
The teeth for part to go onto dont match where the teeth are on new one.
"Powerful UK" has a video where you turn the clockwise so that it will match the part you are putting in.
I think my old one is aligned to "low" and the new one is aligned to "high".

How do I get the teeth aligned up please......
a) turn the cog from the main body out so it aligns up
b) turn the cog on the new part--how can I do that as I dont have a tool big enough that will turn the cog. Did think of putting electric connector on it and using "37" fuse to see of that would make a difference.

Sorry if I am hassling you,but your knowledge is greatly appreciated within the RR community.

Thanks once again.

littlecub

It’s most likely to be easier to power the motor to turn it, to get the missing tooth aligned.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

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Click image to enlarge

"(Note that these photos were taken on a workbench so the orientation of vertical/horizontal is not exactly the same as on the vehicle)"

Photos upside down? Is that the fill plug hole? Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

I would say that the photos require rotating anti-clockwise about 30 degrees to have the same vertical alignment as the transfer box installation in the vehicle. It looks to me like the motor axis is about horizontal.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Well I took newish potentiometer out of newer transfer mtoor and put it into my old transfer motor.
Put it all back together and it didnt make a jot of difference.
Still stuck in low

To RRPhil, did try your suggestion of putting fuse in"37" and tried that recalibration as well..No luck.

Seriously considering getting rid of the beast now cause I cant afford $2G plus for another transfer box.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

littlecub

I understand your frustration but would urge you not to give up just yet.

In my opinion, you still need to establish if the fault is caused by a non-functioning shift motor or if the issue lies within the transfer box itself.

Have you seen/heard any indication that power is getting to the shift motor and that it is turning? Did you swap the potentiometer rather than try to re-align the spline by applying 12v to the shift motor? I think that you need to try powering the shift motor, on the bench, to check that it is functioning and, if so, then try to establish why it isn’t receiving the necessary electrical input from the vehicle (e.g. an issue with ECU, wiring, switch, connector, etc.). If this is the issue, swapping transfer boxes will not fix this, as stuart_2006 has already stated.

Phil

Question......
Did you disconnect the battery to take off/on the TM as I havent.
Just wondering whether that would make any difference.

Thanks.

littlecub

I didn't disconnect the battery when removing the shift motor. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Hi Ron,
Did you have it in high or low when you took it off.

Also I sent you a PM on AULRO.

littlecub

It was in high range when I removed it. I used my local LR indie's hoist when it was free one weekend. Much easier than laying on one's back.

Re the PM on AULRO, I asnwered it in the thread but to reiterate, the potentiometer cover came off relatively easliy. It was over a year ago so I can't really recall how I did it. I thought I might have posted on FullFatRR but I can't find it. I'll search again. Ron B. VK2OTC
2004 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Well I pulled the old TM back off and transferred the newer poteniometer from the old TM to the newer TM as I got
the electrics working to bring the cogs around to where it would fit into the TC as I hadnt been able to do that before.
As I had pulled the old one off/on a few times I got a LTR of the BOT 26 delivered from LR.

The transfer oil was a little suspect..it was a bit greyish. Left to drain for an hour or so while I had bite to eat.
Put newer TM back on,then oil in and hoped for the best.

This morning I fired up the beast after checking that I had no leaks anywhere(did that as well yesterday),
gave the switch a gentle tug and I though I heard a very slight clunk( have had NO low range symbol on dash after rear end was hit by a truck 8 years ago,altho it comes on when i put it into sport lol).
Put it into R and reversed off the ramps and its definitely in high range.

Thanks to RRPhil for his helpful hints.

cheers
littlecub

Well done, and not too expensive...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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