Replaced my front sway bar end links today…again.

The left is the Mevotech Supreme. They lasted about a year before the front end noises and clunks started to come back. They were hard to torque to spec, but easier than the Delphi due to the hex key vs torx.

The middle is the Dephi. They were in for a week. Almost impossible to torque (one never would reach torque) due to the torx key rounding out the stud. The front end noises and clunks went away for a bit. Installation was far too long.

The right is the Moog. Super easy to torque as there is no hex key way or torx key way. An 18mm wrench held the ball joints from spinning and torque was reached in seconds. Installation was about 30 minutes for both sides in my driveways. They can be regreased and felt extremely tight when driving. Not a noise or clunk. I hope they stay this way.

I have a pair of Delphi for the rear, but have asked Moog if they will make a RH rear as they only make a LH rear. Seems odd. I should know in about eight weeks.

FYI, they all cost about the same when buying from Rock Auto. All are approximately 3x more when buying in Canada.

FWIW, I am sure I will get flamed for the Moog products. I don’t care. They are worth a shot.

Dont take this as a flame.

Is the thread profile different on the moog? looks like a finer thread? wouldn't that effect the max allowed torque? what ever that may be, are you in range?

Its so easy to over torque threads especially if the book states a dry torque and someone uses a lubricant it can result in stripped threads etc and the consequences that can go with that. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

The thread pitch is finer. That may affect a max torque to failure rating; however, 185 NM is the spec and far below the max torque to failure rating. The stud size remains the same.

The Moog part is easy to reach torque as you can hold the ball joint from spinning with a wrench while using a 1/2” torque wrench. I am not sure how to reach the torque spec with the others as you can only tighten with a wrench and a T45. There is also not enough space to tighten with an impact gun due to the compressed suspension to achieve normal height while torquing. Maybe a smaller air ratchet would work (I don’t have one).

Perhaps there is a pro tool I am unaware of that holds the ball joint while using a torque wrench. I know a socket exists for the top of strut/shock towers, but they are not rated for the torque spec required for this connection. Dan. 🇨🇦 2013 L405 5.0 SCV8

You don't need to compress the suspension to torque up the droplinks - they're ball joints so will turn as the suspension moves.
I don't know why you're struggling to achieve the correct torque but that will contribute to any knocks or rattles you're getting.

Thanks. Regardless of compression, I have difficulty getting them to stop spinning to reach torque. The Moog parts worked perfectly to torque. Dan. 🇨🇦 2013 L405 5.0 SCV8

All we use for jobs like that is one of these in the torque wrench

Click image to enlarge

Thank you!

How do those (look like half of a box end torque adapter) connect into the torque wrench a they have a 1/2” male end rather than a 1/2” female end?

Looks like if a 21mm were available plus a 1/2” T45 in a breaker bar, I would have no problem, provide there is enough space to work. Dan. 🇨🇦 2013 L405 5.0 SCV8

Those 'plug in' to the torque wrench in place of the ratchet head, you can get versions that are essentially a ring version of a crowfoot wrench that has a 1/2" square drive hole in it.

Random internet photo of one


This single piece type of Torx bit tend to be better quality than the softer ones used in the chromed drive adapter sockets

Thank you so much. I had not seen interchangeable head tools before.

I will grab a 21mm or 13/16” “box end torque adapter” and an impact Torx T45 for the next time I have to replace them.

The Torx tool I was using is a single socket and claimed to be impact grade. It was coated black, but was regular chrome vanadium. I will find a real impact grade one.

Always best to ask a Pro 🙂 Dan. 🇨🇦 2013 L405 5.0 SCV8

Just check the ratchet assembly is removable - not all are, there will be a ~4mm hole where you can insert a pin to depress the spring loaded locking peg.