Well done and hat off, that's a great project and transformation.

DrF

Very impressive and congratulations.  2012 Vogue TDV8 in Aintree green over sand

Salter:

Really enjoyed your post about the camshaft PS's.

I am however having issues responding to your devils electronics post within the pose so thus this... but I want to say that you show great talent; what you did was no easy job;

I do want to add my two cents for whattheir worth:

1) I immediately thought ground issue when I first read your post for a few reasons; Ive owned over a dozen JLR cars and prob six of those have had ground issues; especially the Jag X type battery cables that are so fine that they get gunk in them and lose connectivity.

2) THe problems with the 5.0 and chains arent the chains its rather the service history; buttons, aluminum etc doesnt matter all that much; the pass bank has different torsion on the oil fed timing chain tensioner and what happens is that with 15k OCIs one gets grit and wear in there and then and only then, without any doubt, one gets wear and on this bank in particular esp in SC versions you get a great deal of VVts movement on and off and on and off and changes in oil pressure, momentary esp at start up lead to microscopic wear on these tensioner pistons such that when they extend beyond a certain point they start rocking on the fulcrum points (top and bottom of the tensioner button) back and forth and then gouge the back or mating face of the tensioner arm - once this starts you cant really save it. Im not saying its a foolproof design, but if you run PAO oil from the start and you change it every 3-3.5k (and then use it in lesser cars for another 3 k, and you dont drive it like a bat out of hell; I have seen at least a dozen examples from 11-13 with buttons and w/o that have no discernable wear; Sure thats anecdotal, but the enemy of this engine is dirt and sludge it simply will not tolerate it for more than 90k miles. Even if you dont want to run PAO which btw you should on the SC models you could even run mobil 1 and if its clean youll be happy; you mention the VVTs and this is likely exactly your culprit(s) for the transient differential numbers youre seeing; if the oil gets dirty and hot when it cools it leaves both grime and scum for lack of a better work on the internal tiny oil passages on your VVTs especially so it seems the exhaust VVts and when it cooks dry and then gets restarted cold those passages build up scum and become a little blocked unevenly on each VVT; you then get issues depending on temperatures at either end of the scale and even all the way through the RPM range. I tend to dislike very very much, engione flushes for a number of reasons and advocate frequent high detergent OCIs even down to 1.5k miles for four or five changes straight and then back to whatever yopu are using as a regular motor oil with 3-3.5 k OCIs not a mile more. Obviously air cleaners should be MAnn and oil filters should be mann or equiv down to 10 microns etc

3) Just FYI when I saw your pics re: the wire joints I knew you were going to have ground issues or wiring issues; those faults are either real or the ECU imagines them because of errant voltages it which you discovered; anytime you see anything less than a solder joint (and given the ease of prepackaged solder splices that you heat with a butane lighter for .05 cents I cant imagine anyone doing anything else can you? BTW the extra grounds are an immediate addition for me with or without symptoms; they dont do any harm and often solve gremlin like problems.

Feel free to email me at david@duiutah.com if you like.

Dave 09 FFRR HSE
12 FFRR HSE

Kudos for your work its excellent and well presented.

[quote="davidrosenbloom"]Salter: Really appreciate you taking the time to write all that up.

What you said about ground issues really hit home — I have had my fair share of JLR gremlins over the years, and you are spot on about how something as small as a bit of gunk in a cable can cause chaos.

Your take on the 5.0 chain problem makes a lot of sense too. I had never really thought about the different torsion on that offside bank and how the oil pressure changes at start-up play into it. Totally agree that it is more about the service history than the actual chain. Sludge and grit are definitely the real killers. I like your idea of doing a few short, high-detergent oil changes instead of a flush — seems a much safer way to clean things out.

And yes, those wiring joints… you called it. The ECU does love to throw a fit over the smallest voltage hiccup. I have already added new grounds and extra ones in key areas, which has helped, but living with this L322 for a while now has shown me that with electronics and grounding it is often better to start from scratch. After months of pulling different parts apart, especially during my latest interior project, it is no surprise the car has so many grounding issues. The quality of the grounding points and cables throughout is pretty poor — I have not found one I have not had to dismantle and clean back with the Dremel. In my opinion, the cables themselves should be a much higher grade.

I still have some ground issues now. One project I never posted about was the electrical feed and stability to the AV systems. Under load, with the car running, HVAC, cooled seats, and so on, the voltage still drops too low for the amplifier, even with a fully charged battery. Adding a 2 Farad capacitor directly to the amp made a huge difference — in fact, more than huge. It really shows the power system on these L322s is not what it should be, or maybe the alternator is just not strong enough. Anyway, worth sharing.

Thanks again for your post — it has been a really useful exchange. 2012 Range Rover L322 5.0 SC Autobiography – Sumatra Black
2010 Land Rover Freelander 2 HSE L359 – Grey
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit WK2 – Grey
1999 Mercedes E320 W210 – Silver