Hi Paul,

Yes I'm really hoping this is it now, I.e the problem.

I need to do the rear toe links aswell, going to have a dig in the garage as I'm sure I've got a pair I bought for a previous RR but never got round to fitting.

I don't believe they would have had it in tight tolerance no, I can put it into that mode when the alignment is done however.

I'm not sure why the alignment changed when nothing was adjusted, all I can think of is the chap might have tried to start the adjustments only to find the track rods seized that or the suspension adjusted because it wasn't it tight tolerance mode.

I know kwik fit aren't the best for this kind of thing but luckily this chap seems to be as interested in the issue as me (after telling him everything that's been tried and tested)

He's quite willing to help on the alignment front so I feel quite confident at the moment .

You are on the right path. I wish you every success.

Hoping you are now on the right track Mariana... The geometry makes huge difference in feeling like a RR in my humble opinion... I often drive customer cars and they drive terribly! Suggest an alignment on a Hunter machine (we have one to use locally) spend time setting up correctly and the difference can be night & day!

Out of interest, my old 2013 405 always drove awesomely and since we bought it back and my wife took it, every time I drive it it puts my current 405 to shame. Both in initial pull away & outright performance! albeit my LWB handles better especially in dynamic mode... This is very noticeable when pulling away from the French tolls...
I put this down to emission control systems on my later car. BUT... neither hold a candle to my old silver 2007 322. Best RR I've ever owned and wish id never sold it BUT, you need to move forward I guess?

Thanks RRfranz, my fingers are crossed.

Craig, I recall now you saying about tracking/alignment previously on my threads about other cars.

I'm not sure why I didn't think of this earlier, it just seemed to me like it had to be a hydraulic, electrical servotronic issue or physical binding of parts issue.

Looks like everyone is in agreement that this issue of big toe-in I've uncovered could be the cause. (On this L322 at least)

New parts are on the way and if I can manage to get the work done Friday I should be able to have it aligned Saturday

Busy weekend but I've managed to replace the rusty, seized together parts.

Time to get it booked in for tracking

Fingers crossed! 2012 Vogue TDV8 in Aintree green over sand

Tracking/alignment now done and within specs

The return to center has definitely improved however it's not really gotten any lighter.

All I'm left with now is:

Diagnostics show the BCM output to the servtronic valve as 0v. (Can someone check this on their 06-09 car please, it would be a massive help!)

Slight whine when turning the steering wheel when stopped.

Can someone check this on their 06-09
mine is an 05, i have no idea how to do that, but i would like to know that too RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Knares, on my Autel AP200 it's found under:

Diagnosis>control unit>BPM (body processor module>live data>servo valve current

There is also 'servo pulse width modulation'

Both read 0 amps / 0% when driving.

I've already measured 7v (i think it was) at the module itself so I find it strange how these report 0 and they also report 0 when using JLR SDD diagnostics.

I've made a post in the technical section as I'd really like to get a comparison with someone else's car.

I'm sure from memory on previous RRs that it does show a milliampere value and a duty cycle percentage that decreases when vehicle speed increases.

Strange that mine doesn't even though there is around 7v at the BCM connections to the servotronic valve.

(Suppose voltage could be present but maybe no/not enough current flowing through the circuit?)

i have a GAP, i looked for the readings but i couldn't find anything to do with the power steering, i am sure it there some where RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

I don't have an IID tool anymore but it should be under BCM/BPM similar to my Autel.

It could be under instrument cluster also.

I think with the IID you'll need access to the full data which has to be activated by GAP and a firmware update done to your tool.

Okay, got fed up of getting nowhere so decided to break into one of the wires to the servotronic valve and measure current.

Interestingly with the wire cut and car running diagnostics started reporting an amperage value:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin, please could you move this thread to L322 technical?

Is there a way I can change the title?

Picked up a very cheap (£15!) New, genuine rack to cooler return hose off eBay.

I've also bought some 10mm ID oil resistant hose to replace the cooler to reservoir hose. (Couldn't find a cheap one of these and it appears to just be a regular hose, no internal restrictors or anything)

I'm doing this as if you recall when I was changing the fluid by disconnecting one of these 2 hoses I noted 'Black bits' in the fluid.

Maybe one of these hoses is breaking down internally and blocking flow...

This wouldn't have shown up in my pressure test I do not think and I wasn't able to measure flow during that test.

Once these parts are replaced the only original parts remaining of the P.S system will be the feed hose from reservoir to pump (removed and checked, all good. Doesnt suck flat with car running etc) and the rack itself.

Fingers crossed again