Hello, I have had on my MOT the following message for both sides,

"Nearside Rear Upper Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement outer bush has slight play"

In addition to this, the rear (and the front a bit) are scrubbing the sides of the tyres a little.

I was looking to resolve this prior to new tyres and a full alignment.

I have three questions;

Question 1 - I think it is likely that this is the hub bushes, so I was planning to change all of them, upper and lower on all corners. Is there anything else I should check while I am down there? And same for the fronts?


Question 2 - for parts, I have found the following two items;
- Lemforder Rear Lower Hub Bush for Range Rover and Discovery - LR032644
- Lemforder Rear Upper Hub Bush for Range Rover L322 - RHF000260

I think these are correct, does anyone have experience with these pattern parts vs OEM?


Question 3 - could anyone recommend a bearing puller for this job?



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Hi,
I did replace both upper and lower bushes with new nuts and bolts as well.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic68008.html

The filed surface you can see on one of the liners is to clear the brake dust cover which i left in situ
when i did the job.
I also soaked the local area with loads of Plus-Gas liquid as the bolts were rusted in, ended up using a club hammer and drift to get the old bolts out.
I used this :-https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/5978/Rear-Suspension-Upper-Hub-Bush-Tool-for-Range-Rover for the upper ones. I think you can get them on flea bay cheaper or as some do use sockets
and bolts or studding.

Brilliant cheers Strider, I will give that a go. I don't think mine has seen much salt considering it's age so I am hoping it comes off okay, I have some penetrating oil somewhere, or a big hammer failing that.

Did you do anything to the front suspension of yours? Looks like it could be a trickier job (in terms of tightness etc!)

Good morning,
Regarding the front suspension, the only arms that I got replaced were the 2 straightish lower ones,
I got them changed by a local garage, the arms that have a cranked shape and locate on a "upside down"
ball joint I have not touched yet. The ball joint removal for that one is the main problem area.
Lower arms ....ZRBJ 500920G (bought from Duckworth in 2016), double check part numbers have not been replaced as your car is a lot newer than mine.
Note: The bush end of all the arms should be fully tightened when the car is sitting on the road or as some do jack the wheel hub up to its road height position relative to the body work. This is to prevent excessive twising of the flexable bush when the suspension articulates due to road surfaces etc
Good Luck
Peter

Thanks Peter, I will do the rears first then give the fronts an inspection. Nothing on MOT about the front, but I need new tyres all around and would like to avoid scrubbing them in the first year!

On the your comment about tightening, just to make sure I understand correctly, the suspension should be close to it's normal running height prior to tightening, and this is to allow the bush to be in its relaxed state most of the time, rather than always slightly twisted ?

For info Lemforder were the Original Equipment supplier for the bushes - so as good as they get & definitely a lot better than some of the pure aftermarket suppliers.
Ref tightening the fasteners : Yes it is so the rubber is not "wound-up" at its normal ride height position.
Nearly always if the bushes wear out fast it's because people have tightened up the fasteners while the wheels are still hanging / the body is at full lift.
Asa PS on the rear, mark the cam washer positions BEFORE you release the fasteners, so that you can put the washers back to the same position on re-assembly.
When I've done this, I have had a suspension alignment check afterwards, BUT it was free as nothing needed adjusting - everything was exactly middle tolerance. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 151,000 miles & now sold
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

"On the your comment about tightening, just to make sure I understand correctly, the suspension should be close to it's normal running height prior to tightening, and this is to allow the bush to be in its relaxed state most of the time, rather than always slightly twisted ?"
Exactly
Pawl is correct about Lemforder being one of the OEM suppliers when I got the front lower arms from Duckworth I noticed the Lemforder logo stamped on the arm (shape of a Owl).
Peter

Brilliant thanks guys, the parts have just arrived, so will give it a go!

Got it all sorted today 👍 cheers for the help. Hardest part was the circlip removal... Seemed to be fused to the hub!
Evidentally managed to damage the brake wear sensor, so will be irritated by that message until I replace rear pads I expect!

Or short it out?

Is that literally cut the cable and solder wires together?