I used the gen tool (JLR-310-247) to lock the LH bank, but agree with you, it's not essential and can be worked around, it's just to allow the cam bolts to be tightened to spec. You did have the diamond washer on the rear of the sprocket, as this acts as an anti slip washer? L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

I remember having washers or a washer at the back of some of those sprockets and I believe I put them back in the same way as they came out. I do not anymore remember however whether the washer was behind that particular sprocket though. I assume if that sprocket been slipping, I would know about it already as it also drives the second camshaft, right?

Yes, I would suspect you would have heard a nasty sound if the sprocket had slipped and even so it's not going to affect fuel pressure. I assume you've checked and double checked all important electrical connectors, Cam, crank etc. and checked all your fuel hoses from the filter are correctly connected to their respective ports. Did you use a gen tool for the trigger wheel as apparently some non genuine tools can have play in them bad enough to throw the crank sensor timing out. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

I've checked all the connectors so many times that my head hurts, also the fuel lines (and I do have fuel coming out for the rail at what seems to be the same rate as at filter (when cracked fuel injector nut)). Also most of the fuel line connectors have different sizes so hard to mess up really. I used a brand new LASER trigger wheel install tool which felt pretty tight and fool proof. Also compared the picts of the trigger wheel position from before and after and all looked to be spot on. Also my GAP tool shows RPM of the engine when cranking (but I'm not sure if this comes from the trigger wheel reading or not). Also I guess if any of the key sensors connectors weren't connected, my GAP tool would flag it...

Yes, I'd agree and would expect to see some dtc's. Was it definitely the tool for the v8 trigger wheel, as the V6 looks identical but has a different timing position, the V8 item is stamped V8 (at least on the gen item)?

How long have you been cranking for before giving up, just wondering if you've not let it build hp enough? L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

It was definitely the correct trigger wheel tool because I did originally ordered the wrong one (for tdv6) which I luckily realised when trying to do the install. So I had to order myself the tdv8 model which I used in the end.. I had been cranking for a long time.. often until the car decided to stop which is about 20-30sec I think

Was it a new trigger wheel, as thye can get damaged when removing them, I believe the magnets can break as they are very brittle.

I'd still peresvere with the cranking to be honest, nothing to lose apart from a flat battery! You're not going to do any damage and you've got no codes to suggest anything is wrong with the timing etc.

If it doesn't fire, then I guess it's time to break out the oscilloscope and start looking at camshaft and crankshaft signals  L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

The trigger wheel was brand new genuine Land Rover item so unless it came faulty from factory, it should be fine. I will try cranking a few more times (but I must have already done so 40 times at least)..

a question? What is your opinion on trying to use Easy Start for more than one or two squirts? I keep getting conflicting advise.. Some say it should be avoided as a plague, others say good to use even up to 10seconds at a time to see if the higher revs will bring the high fuel pressure back to life? Don't want to damage anything at this point..

It's a bit old school for modern engines, but as long as the engine timing is correct I can't see it could do much harm to prove the engine runs in theory. You've obviously got oil pressure from the failed mistart attempts so as long as it doesn't run like a banshee it maybe worth a try.

Likewise, my engine had been apart for a couple of months and it fired straight up after 20-30 seconds. If you've had the pump and injectors checked there's no reason why it shouldn't do the same.

There was a tsb for the wiring to the fuel rail pressure sensor, have you checked if its applicable to your Model Year?

Also whilst it was apart, was it outside, and if so did you bag all the connectors to make sure there was no water ingress?

It's a strange one as it sounds like you've done everything by the book. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.