I’ve just collected my latest project, a 2010 L322 5.0 SC Autobiography Black.

I viewed this a few weeks ago and was undecided, but seeing it still advertised, I dropped the (trade) seller a bit of a low ball offer based on a trade sale and although he tried to bid me up, I stuck to my guns and he accepted.

Having got it home and had a good poke around, there are no major issues beyond some well needed TLC - various body and paintwork blemishes and the wheels need refurbing. The interior, after a day of cleaning, has come up really well - which I do tend to find with the L322, they seem to wear their miles well. There are no error codes logged and everything works bar the parking sensors which should be an easy fix.

Came with the seemingly obligatory single key, so a spare ordered + new fob cases, front brake discs / pads / fitting kit, tailgate straps, bonnets struts, oil & all filters & a new petrol cap.

With only 1 previous owner, the service history is excellent up to 2020, with all the MD stamps and invoices to support, but it tails off after then as is so often the case when they get to a certain age, which is a shame.

Overall I’m really pleased with it, the Barolo Black paint suits it well and all the AB Black bits are present & correct.

Nice find I look forward to progress reports

That looks tidy.

Another 5.0 on the forum They're becoming common now!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Very nice, you can't beat a good 5.0 S/C....  Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
-Click here for Thread-
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click here for Project Fatty off roader-

Very swich JCW, looks like a nice project. Great to see it still factory spec.

Look forward to the updates.

DrF

Thanks all for the positive comments

I’ve decided to replace the primary & secondary drive belts and related idler & tensioner pulley bearings.

@David H - reading your excellent 5.0 SC thread, I notice you just replaced the pulley bearings -

“The dimensions are exactly the same as the SKF 6203-2RSH bearings that I fitted to the 4.2 3 years ago so I’ve ordered 4 of them for this one”

https://bearing-king.co.uk/products/6203-2...-12mm-wide

Can I check that the four bearings you’re referencing are for the 2x tensioner pulleys and 2x idler pulleys? i.e. they all use the same bearing? At £3.80 each plus about £50 for the two belts, this would make it a very cost effective job to DIY.

Cheers Jonathan

2010 L322 5.0 SC Autobiography Black
2007 Defender 90 XS Hardtop

A few parts arrived this morning, so I was able to do a mini service this afternoon.

Per usual, some of the airbox screw heads were rusty / mangled, but whoever replaced them last was kind enough to cut slots across the heads, so I got them out with a flat blade screwdriver easily enough. Had a few spares to replace these.

Bit OCD but I also hoovered out the inside of the air boxes to clean out the leaves and dust.

Ran the engine up to temperature then drained the oil via the drain plug and although very dark brown in colour, I was pleased to see no sparkly sheen to it, always a good sight on a first oil change of a used car!

Oil filter change was straightforward with it very accessible mounted on the top of the engine.

Exactly 8 litres of oil back in and after 30 mins. the dashboard oil level reading was spot on.

The genuine carpet mats were left in the boot by the seller and looked grubby and unloved but after a long hosing down, shampoo and thorough rinsing, they’ve come up well, the hot weather has completely dried them so they’re back in the car now.

Moving onto the front brakes over the next few days.

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Just a heads up... that's the wrong oil you've got from Millers.

Originally the 5.0 was spec'd with a 5w20, in 2014 they revised it so that 2014 and onwards used a 0w20. Then in 2018 there was another revision so that all ages of 5.0 use a 0w20. There are bulletins available online for it.

One of the biggest issues is that none of the online places list the 0w20 in their catalogues for the older cars so they've not updated them as per the bulletins.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachm...1552425862

This is the oil that I use in mine:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-215127-fuchs-...e-oil.aspx

All of the bearings on the pulleys are the same. I pressed mine in and out using some sockets in a vice as the press seemed overkill. One of them was seized in the pulley though, I ended up bending the pulley trying to remove it so had to order a new pulley.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Thanks for the confirmation on the belt pulley bearings David, 4 x bearings and both belts ordered

Re the oil, thanks for the heads-up on the superceded weight, to be honest I just went with Opie oils recommended spec and also what is on the oil filler cap / in the handbook, but appreciate these are all based on the original specification.

In practice I’m not sure it’ll make any difference on a 15 year old engine in terms of improved MPG but will consider the 0W20 on the next change.

That's the same as what's on my oil filler cap too.

My XFR had the revised spec on it as do the new replacements from LR.

The 0 is the cold weight of the oil which I believe was done to aid emissions as well as getting the oil through the timing gear quicker when it's cold from what I've read online.

Part of me agrees with what you say about it being a 15 year old car and not making much difference, however, part of me thinks they must have changed it for a reason.

I'd not be throwing away new oil for it but it's probably worth going for the right spec next time you change it.  2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Another couple of jobs today, removed and cleaned / re-coloured the leather section of the steering wheel, has come up up like new. My favoured product for this is Liquid Leather Scuff Master, dabbed on using a sponge, two coats and it dries to a durable matt finish.

Also changed the pollen filter, it was filthy so well worthwhile doing. Good to see all the the tabs on the flap that hold it in place are present, almost every other L322 I’ve had some of these are missing, no doubt snapped off by MD technicians

The steering wheel looks great.

I keep intermittently looking for a half wood one for my car as I think it just finishes the interior off nicely.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Inspired by a couple of forum members (notably dhallworth) I’ve started the engine work on my 5.0 SC.

Soon after buying it, I removed the SC drive belt to find the pulley had some rotational play - no surprise as at idle it could be heard rattling, but disappearing with faster engine speed, classic symptom of a worn SC coupler.

I also noticed a small coolant level drop and coolant collecting on the lower front side of the engine, although I couldn’t spot the precise source - I suspected the oil cooler or one of the coolant pipes around / under the SC.

For both jobs, the SC has to come off - a little daunting but actually, it wasn’t too bad. As anyone who’s done this themselves will know, the most awkward part is dealing with the parts connected at the back of the SC - mine has the symposer fitted (I believe some do not) which was a bit of pain to detach, mostly as it’s right at the back and is awkward to see and access - I ended up laying across the top of the engine bay which was a bit painful after a while!

The SC was also stubborn to release its hold form the block - there are two steel locating dowels that on mine had oxidised and welded themselves into the aluminium sockets - there are no easy levering points but I found the best method was to keep rocking the SC front to back and it finally came free.

I believe I’ve found the source of the coolant leak - where the top aluminium coolant pipe joins the corresponding aluminium pipe from the block (the Y pipe) there is a sealing spacer with two O rings, this had clearly been compromised and leaking down into the void under the SC which has coolant pooled there.

I’ve decided to also replace the oil cooler and the water pump whilst I’m in there - access is easy.

I’ve removed the nose from the SC body and sure enough, the coupler is loose and the shaft it locates into has developed some grooves, although not as bad as others I’ve seen.

I looked into replacing the coupler with a solid one, as this relies only on the six pegs to securely locate and can be fitted to a worn shaft without impacting its function, however many report excessive noise not long after fitting these and revert to the original spring loaded coupler, so that’s what I’m going with.

I’ve ordered the whole SC nose, given the wear on the shaft on my one.

I’ve also drained the SC oil - should be 150ml but didn’t get that much out, probably 100ml. I’ve ordered new oil from Powerhouse.

The inside of the SC and the charge coolers had a light misting of oil and a few small pools in the nooks and crannies, I believe this is normal and nothing to worry about - however I decided to give it all a good clean before I refit them.

That’s about where I am for now - all the parts have been ordered ready to start putting it all back together.

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Dave at Powerhouse Automotive suggests not fitting a solid coupler to the 5.0 as it’s noisier and they’ve seen a couple of failures when running the solid pulley so he will only fit a genuine one to a charger from a 5.0.

My shaft had some grooves in it too but Powerhouse were able to rotate the shaft 180 degrees so the new coupler is sitting on the unworn part of the shaft.

If mine needs doing again I’ll need to fit a new snout to it but I’d imagine that’s a way off yet.

I ended up sending mine to Powerhouse as I wanted the case bearings doing whilst it was all in bits as I didn’t want to be going in there again. On the 4.2 unit you can press them from behind but on the 5.0 you need to extract them from the front.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior
2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Black Edition in Santorini Black with Ebony Interior

Thanks David - good advice as always

I hadn’t considered fitting the new coupler so the spring locates on a different unworn part of the shaft, given there are three fitting positions - I may well go that route and return the snout I’ve ordered, especially as the shaft on mine isn’t worn at all across 2/3rds of its surface. It will save a few £’s and if it’s good enough for Powerhouse then it’s good enough for me.

Glad my decision not to fit a solid coupler also aligns with you / Powerhouse.

The SC bearings “seem” ok - it certainly rotates by hand smoothly & quietly, so I’ll leave the bearings.