So I have this fault and a google seems to suggest it’s a big issue on discos - there is a multi connector in the nsf arch and the wire to the sensor corrodes..

Is there such a connector on the l322 in a Similar place or does anyone have any suggestions what to do to fix?

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/solved-faul...ight=C1A09 Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Anyone 😂 Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Rather than guessing, what are your symptoms & DTC's, what does the 4x4i screen show? you can't really use a diagnosis of a DTC from a vehicle with a different implementation of a similar system.

If I read the eas module it’s showing pressure on all corners all is above board but for some reason I can’t see reservoir pressure not sure if that’s the iid tool limitation or the fault Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Right - I have (I think) identified the problem - the reservoir pressure sensor that’s in the Wheel well was soaking wet inside the plug . Disconnecting it makes no difference to the fault codes so I have ordered a replacement over expensive sensor.

The question is with the EAS not running how do I change it? I assume I can’t just unbolt it or it will fly out like a bullet? How can I depressurise the tank with inactive eas? Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Before you change the switch, check the harness connector for corrosion, you might need new pigtails for the connector housing. I'd also recommend finding out how and where from the water got in to prevent reoccurrence.

With the system off, you can crack off the pipe fitting and allow the compressed air to vent slowly - don't forget to nip it back up before you run the system up though. On SDD & Autologic, there is a routine to deflate & depressurise the EAS which works even with DTC's set, it might be on IID - I don't use it so can't give you any hints as where to look.

The connector that plugs into the sensor? That clean and I sprayed with contact cleaner and dried.

I’m hoping I can plug the new sensor in without fitting and I will at least get no faults or different faults or it will run a bit at which point I’ll be happy to depressurise and fit Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

With the best will in the world, you can't check the condition of the connector electrical contacts without removing them from the housing, are the pins in the sensor corroded or discoloured at all? if so, then so will be the contacts in the connector housing - even if not, you should be checking them as a matter of course, if there is any corrosion at all, it will spread to the new sensor.

Be careful using the new sensor as a 'dummy', it will of course read zero pressure so the depressurise routine will assume the receiver is empty and may not open the valve to allow the air out...

No corrosion on any of the pins and I soaked the whole plug in contact cleaner so hopefully that should do the job.

I was more thinking if it started blowing it up for a few seconds that’s enough of a confirmation that I need to change it Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Contact cleaner isn't what you (probably) think it is - it removes grease and oils, that's it. It doesn't remove corrosion or check pin grip, or replace contact plating.
Still, if you're happy with the diagnosis and remedy, then I'm sure it'll be fine.

Gentlemen:

Could you identify what year you are referring to on the L322?

I have an 09 L322 thats acting every funny like a short somewhere with the gallery filling to proper and then bleeding off; GAP shows fairly linear voltage readings on sensor but have the C1A09 fault and its not the connectors or the relay. I'd like some suggestions on what to follow as far as specific items; everything works as it should; I leveled it fine using the GAP PROGRAM and it raises and lowers fine; but the compressor will cycle on and off (and its temp is fine).

WHat IS strange to me however is that all of sudden those values arent visible anymore; as if the EAS computer is suddenly dropping off; the gap values just read N/A and thats when Ive just been reading them. I do happen to have another NCJ pressings compressor thats fine in a 12 L322 that I could switch but the compressor works just fine. Ive considered exhaust valve but I have my doubts; this acts almost like a weird height sensor, but those voltages are linear too; now when I got it someone had put in the left front height sensor backwards but I fixed that; and it has a great new battery.

I could swear this is wiring. Can anyone tell me where to find the EAS computer on the 09 L322? In back or in front under the passenger footwell?

THanks,

Dave

09 FFRR HSE
12 FFRR HSE

Can you read the reservoir pressure and does it look ok? Current stable:
2015 5.0 V8 S/C AB
2006 BMW M6
2007 4.2 V8 S/C FF
Gone:
2002 4.4 V8 FF

Sure on the 09 but it goes to 220 psi and then its stable and then theres a bump lets say or an incline and all of a sudden the exhaust valve opens for a second and I see v using the GAP tool at the exhaust valve for a split second like its a mistake almost or an errant signal and that blows the or lets the reservoir down to 35 or 80 where it stays; compressor temp goes all the way up to 90 c but to be clear its not a compressor temp cut out.

I can see linear v at the pressure valve and constant v to the pressure valve.

However, yesterday I believe I saw all voltages drop off as if the EAS lost communication.

No corrosion. But I did re-repair the white purple wire from left FHS to EAS located at top of left front strut wiring harness and its nice and soldered.

Starting to feel like an exhaust solenoid or loose connection somewhere, but I cant catch it on the GAP save for that momentary signal to exhaust valve that is like .25 seconds. THat feels wrong. But its only intuition.

Dave