Torque converter is screaming at me, sounds like a strangled bird in there, at least I presume it is, does it when it gets hot and does it in drive and neutral when stopped...

Anyone know anywhere that rebuilds them rather than just buying a new one

Had heard Huddersfield automatic transmissions are good but never used them

Typically there are no specialists on Hull that I know of..... Pete
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Remanufacturing the Sachs W260S-2GWK torque converter is a specialist task : http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post186323.html#186323

I personally would only trust someone like JPAT (www.jpat.co.uk) or Sussex Auto Parts (www.sussexautos.co.uk) who both have a lot of experience with this particular unit.

Phil

Thanks Phil I'll ring them... Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
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I used Sussex Auto Parts last month for my TC after seeing RRPhil recommend them in another post (thanks RRPhil ).

They were very helpful and went out of their way to provide me with an off the shelf recon unit instead of me having to go back and collect mine and even knocked some money of the quoted price on the phone (quoted £180+VAT). They can do a while you wait rebuild if you want which takes a few hours. Obviously a bit out of the way for you but they do a fast postal service which means a 3 day turnaround (they quoted if got TC on a weds I should get it back Fri).
They turn around a lot of TC's which are rebuilt in house. They regularly get in shipments of 70+ allsorted TC's to rebuild from one customer in Germany. While I was there they were doing a Autobox rebuild training course so obviously know their stuff.

One thing they did ask when I rang up was what was the code on the TC so they can check stock...something you can't see until you take the TC out. Anyway for the BMW 4.4l with ZF 5HP24 like yours the code is F38.

While in there it's worth replacing the transmission input shaft seal and also the crankshaft rear main seal, I replaced both mine (main seal was weeping). It's also a ideal time to do the coolant hoses at the top back of the engine.

P.S. if you are removing the gearbox without help (or even with it) then split the transfer box off the back and remove separately, it makes the whole process a lot easier. There is no gasket to worry about between the two.
Remember to fill the TC with some fluid before mounting it otherwise it's dry from startup.

Thanks chaps,

I feel a bit of a now..... It was an intermittent noise, and I couldn't get it to do it with the bonnet up!!

It sounded just like the noise when I had a convertor go on a previous car,

Anyway after a bit more driving it has got a lot worse and is screaming like a goodun...

It now appears to be the water pump bearing, the pulley is wobbling and the noise is defo from that area...

Never had a pump sound like that before, I've ordered one and it will be here Tuesday, hope it lasts...

The only other thing it could be is the timing chains but I don't think they'd sound like a strangled cat??? Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Updated transmission removal procedure (not as per the workshop manual), see post no 45 (by RRPhil again ):

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...ode-3.html

If you can't download them let me know and I'll email them over.

If the water pump is sounding that bad it's probably on it's last legs and the bearing is shot.
If it's wobbly it's knackered. Worth checking the tensioners too, they can scream like a good'en if their bearings are shot.
I wouldn't recommend driving it like it because if it lets go completely the belt may snap or slip off and can take out other expensive bits like the radiator. Up to you though, water pumps have a nasty habit of their bearings seizing solid and snapping belts once worn and wobbly.

Easy way to check if it's the water pump is the culprit of the noise is to remove the water pump belt then briefly run the engine.

Cheers, I've ordered a new pump, belts and coolant and I'll take it home when I finish work, only 7 miles and it can have a rest and I'll get the Sunday car out till it's done.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Well it got 3 miles home and it's seized and shredded the fan belt, now waiting for the recovery truck

Oh well, cheaper than a torque convertor....!!!! Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Yep, think that's knackered.....

Yep thats bust that is  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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Think might need a bit of gaffer tape to sort out the drive belt as well

I had an air con compressor implode on me one time in a bmw, smoke coming from under the bonnet etc There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Unlucky, Sods Law! I would have done the same for sake of 7 miles.

Yep, look on the bright side, it's a lot cheaper and easier to fix than a torque converter.

You could have done what I did, tracked a noise down to what you thought was the TC, gone to all the trouble, expense and effort of changing the TC only to find the noise still there afterwards... lol!