MOT time again and this year, it's the turn of the brake pipes. Both front steel pipes are corroded. Whilst on the ramp, I had a look and they appear to have a join behind the plastic wheel arch trim.
Anyone changed these and if so, what are they like to do?
I've done a search online for replacements but I can't see any. Does anyone have a part number or link?
Thanks

You would usually just buy a real of brake pipe and a tool for forming the ends then make replacements up, bending it to shape. Doing it properly you replace the whole length of it but you can just replace the corroded part, but that can look untidy and adds a couple of extra joins where there is the potential for leakage.

Better still use copper/nickel (Kunifer) brake pipe, so it doesn't corrode.

You can also use copper brake pipe but mentioning that on forums usually results in an argument about how it's dangerous, because in some jurisdictions it's not allowed because of a slight risk of it work hardening and breakage. (Like diesels consuming their own sump oil and self destructing, i'm yet to hear from anyone who's actually had it happen though). Just don't use any old pipe that fits from a plumbers merchants.

Well on reading joe90s post, I can see that there is no join. The front pipes go up into the engine bay. Think I may have to invest in a flaring tool and a roll of pipe

I've all the gear to do my own pipes and completely redone a series III LR and other cars before but in your situation I would save the hassle and expense of making your own up and just buy the replacement pipes.
Looking online those two front pipes are about £8 and £5 a piece, bit of no brainer compared to buying a whole roll of pipe, fittings plus a decent flaring tool (£30 minimum for a decent tool, £10 tools are just annoying).
If you buy the factory pipes they will be exactly the right length with exactly the right fittings, you just have to bend it into place and connect up, simple!

Where are the pipes online? Got a link?

Have a look through microcat for your vehicle then just google the part number:

http://lrparts.ru/engl/

It's a bit difficult to trace exactly the right part for your vehicle as several part numbers are listed but they are all about the same price.
I was using SGB500384 and SGB500362 as an example which are up to '06.

Might be better to contact a main dealer or specialist (e.g. Dan at Duckworths) and work off your VIN/registration number.

I've got a hand held on-car flaring tool. My plan was to cut the affected section of brake pipe behind the plastic wheel arch trim and fit a joint instead of replacing the whole run up to the block. The right hand side looks a pig to do running across the bulkhead. Much easier and quicker to fit a joint and run a short section of new pipe up to the flexible hoses

Good luck with that ^^^^^

Bear in mind that steel is much harder to flare than copper (e.g. better tool needed) but it is a good call to avoid running a pipe all the wayround the bulkhead (as you saw in my howto). I don't reckon you could get a new steel one in there... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
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Having tried to unsuccessfully flare existing steel pipe for repairs then I would avoid the hassle!
You might be OK if your tool can cope (some can) otherwise you're probably better off replacing a whole run.

According to the microcat diagram there is just a vertical run up from the flexibles each side, one side goes into the ABS module (2C292C on the diagram), the other side into an intermediate connector and separate pipe that goes across the bulkhead to the ABS module. You just need the vertical (2C292D on the diagram):

I'm guessing they don't come pre-shaped and if they do, they'd be a to fit.

The tool I have does steel as well as copper. It was from my Fork Lift truck engineer days ,so should be ok.

I'll price the pipes up from that diagram as it may be quicker to change them. I didn't see that joint in the longer one, so that makes life a bit easier!
Thanks for the assistance

Assuming they are the same as BMW supply they won't come pre-shaped unless they can be installed with the shape set (usually just short runs).
I've done a couple of factory steel lines (rears on a BMW E36 that go over the fuel tank) and they come straight and you bend in place. Fairly tough to bend but not overly so, it can be done with hands.

If you have a tool that'll do steel then I don't see a problem just patching.

£7.09 + vat for the two from Land Rover. In stock Thursday and the parts guy reckons they are pre-shaped 👍

They are pre shaped😬

Just had mine done and they are buttons from the dealer (Dan) weren't too bad to do according to the mechanic, easier than on a sport or disco! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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If you can get them preshaped that would be the route to go,Anyone having their own go would look like a Dogs arse to the neat bends which anybody will see on any potential resale.It does not matter out of sight but would try to avoid putting in extra joins if all possible.I put copper to the rears on mine but there was a join in the wheelarch so didn't need to go up to the block!