HELP!!!

Trying to replace the arm and ball joint on the drivers side of my car, the bent arm nearest the rear of the car, will it budge? No!

The nut and bolt holding it to the subframe came off with little effort, didn't even need the breaker bar!!

Removed the nut from the ball joint, once again easy once I'd cracked it off! Then spent another 4 hours trying to get the arm off the ball joint, tried two different ballnjoint splitters... one broke and the other won't get at it!

Thought I could remove the whole ball joint, so undid the torq screw which is covered by the arm, the one nearest the brake disc will not budge for love or money!

It's rounded off, tried hitting it round with a chiesel, still won't move!!!

Ended up with a line down my finger cut with the angle grinder, and an unusable car in bits!!

Please someone help me before I dump the car in the Thames!!!

any help?

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Saw that thread last night whilst researching.

Unfortunately it's the other arm I'm stuck on, done that one!! 

This job is a PITA!

RAVE indicates that the arm comes off the ball joint taper first, then undo the torx screws to release the ball joint (easier said than done!) If one of the torx screws is foobar-ed, you may have to cut/drill it out. Careful though, you do not want a new hub on the list!

RAVE also indicates that the ball joints should be replaced as a pair ( I understand that to mean both on the same side?)

Have you tried the version for removal in the wiki, using the weight of the car to help things part company?

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic1632.html .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

That's what I originally tried doing, getting the arm off the ball joint, but it just wasn't happening!

It's awkward angle to get to as well, with everything possible being in the way! I tried a balljoint fork splitter which after beating a million times doesn't seem to help, then got a jaw opening one from Halfords, which broke before anything would shift!

I then thought maybe I could remove it all as one, so managed to remove one torx screw but not the other! If I can get the other torx screw out, I can at least beat the ball joint until it kills me / falls out and reinstall the other.

Part of me says go to a local garage, the other says no they'll think I'm a for getting it in the mess it's in so not sure what to do  

Use the fork to put some tension on it, then beat the bejesus out of the side of the joint and it will pop off as if by magic No7 - 2003 V8 Vogue

I tried that earlier, just couldn't get it to go  

Even if you get the bolt out I bet you can't get the balljoint out the hub, needs some serious abuse to remove it, stick the nut back on and put the bolt and nut back in the other end and take it to the garage....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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As above, If you can, might need a helper....... if you are also using a fork to apply pressure

If possible use two hammers, one resting on one side and strike the other side, eventually the shock will break the taper, use the largest hammers you have, the resting one is better being larger than the striking hammer.

Good luck

Once split you can look at the damaged Torx....... Regards
Royston

2008 4.2 Supercharged Autobiography
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Thanks for the advice, will try again tomorrow I guess!

I can't put the end nut back on the balljoint anymore, the thread was too long for the Halfords ball joint remover I go so cut it down with the angle grinder, just for the tool to break on me! Could try the garage the next road down, I'm thinking maybe a short drive will make the arm come off the ball joint?! 

Not done this one but if it is a real c^£t give it a good spray up.start again tomorrow,get a big bar and a blowlamp,try and get the weight off it or even better to help you ,get it hot if it is possible and whilst giving it a bloody good bar hit it very hard with a good long handled hammer,helps if you have a mate to help,two hammere work even better together but take care that you don't get carried away and cause any damage elsewhere .Good luck .

DO NOT use any heat on it you will boil all the grease out the wheel bearing, a club hammer usually works but difficult to get a good swing when the car is on a jack, helps if it's on a ramp, it's so much easier....

I doubt it will fall off on it's own on a short trip, if the other arm is still on it won't go far anyway...!!!!! Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I had a similar problem with the ball joints a couple of years ago. I ended up using a long arm fork ball joint remover and a sledge hammer. Still to about 15 minutes of beating before joint split 56 TDV8 Vogue SE
9 Freelanders, 2x 2002 TD4ES, 2001 TD4, 2002 1.8GS, 2000 XEDI, 2x 2000 1.8ES, 2004 1.8 & 2000 1.8 GS (rolled)
91 Lotus Carlton (sold)
90 Lotus Elan (BRG)

I have done that job and found it a pain. I bought a 3 piece fork type splitter off eBay cheap and used the largest from memory and it has a long screw in handle. You could try a pry bar with an assistant to try and lever the joint while you hit it with the splitter.

To remove the ball joint I used a lot of spray shock and unlock and also a bit of heat but not too much as didn't want to compromise my wheel bearing but I have read of some using oxy acetylene.
The torx bolts get rusty so what you think is the right size is probably too small as I had to tap the torx bit in.
I used a club hammer for the ball joint to hammer it down and inwards to not spread it out and also supported under the hub with an axle stand but it took some beating.

I would try a bit of heat, shock and unlock and try tapping in a larger torx bit first.
Once the torx bolt is out you can sharpen a cold chisel and start to hit it between the lugs and the hub and that combined with hammering from the top will shift it

Here goes!!

Pictures or death to follow!!!