This may not apply to everyone but may be of help to some, I just had some of the brake pipes (front I believe) replaced under a recall on my 07 Vogue. I don’t have the details unfortunately but I think it was not issued that long ago.

Few £ to save there for those it applies to which you should be able to check on gov.uk MOT site. 2007 Giverny Green Range Rover Vogue

This thread started in 2015 covers it. I had mine done on the Td6 a few years ago.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic32929...ake+recall John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

If it makes you feel better, I need a new rear (wheel to wheel) brake pipe on the 996....
Porsche, in their wisdom, route it over the engine, so it requires the engine to be dropped, just to change the brake pipe!

Couple of comments, make sure they are not using copper brake pipe, they should either OEM steel lines or use kunifer pipe, it’s burst pressure and durability is much better than copper. At the price they have quoted it should be Kunifer.

They shouldn’t put an advisory for OEM covers and under trays... the MOT manual already spells out they cannot remove these covers if in place and have to pass anything that can’t be visual tested if there is no other test that shows failure etc. If you have added under trays (non-OEM) then it’s a grey area for the advisory.

If you get these sort of ‘odd’ failures or advisory comments get them to show you in the MOT manual the section they are referring too, when MOTing the tester has very exact sections on what to test, how to test and what is a fail, it’s not grey... pass or not.

The MOT training is based around a sequence of tests that have to be completed and what IS NOT a fail... they spend a lot of time on this as failing a car for something that the tester shouldn’t have done causes much more complaints and issues for the governing body.

When I used to test, I would make notes then refer to the manual for each comment as to if this is a pass or fail... boarder line is always a pass with advisory, never the other way. Where a lot of testers go wrong is 1, not referring to the exact test in the manual and using their service or ‘common sense’ knowledge... neither have a place in the MOT. A car can be dangerous BUT pass the MOT... rightly or wrongly this is how the MOT training and manual are set up.

Again if you feel like challenging a fail or comment ask the tester to show you the section they are referring to in the manual this is one of your rights 👍

I wouldn’t accept the advisory on undertrays.... it’s pointless 🤦‍♂️

I seem to be at cross purposes. I thought the post was about a recall and not about the original thread.

There was a recall for the front flexibles.  John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

My local MOt place always states the undertrays nonsense too.. " we have to put that on now " . Sorry Stan , yes off topic..

The governments wed site on MOT’s even advises against issuing an advisor ‘under trays fitted’ if OEM. The gov. Are looking to issues further advice to testers on this.

https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/giving-the-right-advice/

The governments own wording:

In respect of undertrays, these are common fitment, particularly on diesels, and can't therefore be considered 'a peculiarity of the vehicle identified during the inspection' as maybe they once were. The fact that they may prevent a proper inspection of certain items is no more relevant that the fitment of interior trim or carpet. If a vehicle has been modified, for example as a track day car, and has undershields such as a sump guard or fuel tank shield which are not standard, then it would be logical to advise on their fitment.

The purpose of the MOT test is to check that; at the time of the test, the testable items meet the minimum standard required by law and without dismantling. The responsibility for the condition of a vehicle lies with the vehicle owner and the MOT is not intended to replace routine servicing and maintenance.

The tester’s obligation to presenters and their vehicles is to carry out a test in accordance with the requirements and to advise them, if necessary, in line with the published guidance. It is our experience that most customers don't want a list of inappropriate advisories against their vehicle record.

I've done brake pipes on a L322 about 10 times now. For what it's worth, these are my thoughts:

- When the old steel pipes corrode, they might go from visually acceptable at an MOT, to a failure in a year and 4k miles.
- When the old ones are removed, they always look worse than they did when on the car. And if they are showing corrosion at the callipers, they are always worse where they are hidden under the covers.
- Almost always when a L322 fails an MOT for the brake pipes, the pipes should have been changed a year before. Invariably the pipes split as they are removed - which indicates they are very weak.
- Quite often 10-12 year old L322s that pass an MOT, can come back a few months later with leaking pipes somewhere that the tester couldn't see.
- It takes about 4 hours labour to do all 4 brake pipes (at £60/hour, that is £240), sometimes slightly longer depending on what else needs changing (flexis, link pipes etc).
- You do get quicker at doing the job if you've done it a few times. There are delays that can occur - such as getting the sill under trim off, getting the heat shields off, getting the old pipe out of the calliper, removing the old connections from the flexi hoses, making up link pipes from flexi to calliper - this can all add time.
- Copper pipes are fine, and can be made up at the garage. Steel ones have to be ordered from the dealer and are much more expensive. Plus copper have the advantage that they don't rust.
- The rear pipes have to be bent and formed in place, and I'd rather be doing that with copper than trying to bend steel pipes into place. Rear pipes can be joined at the union that is just behind the nearside wheel, but front pipes are usually joined to good steel. Making up these joints can take some time.
- You always lose some brake fluid in the process. It is a messy job and impossible to remove old pipes and connect new ones without some loss.
- Your message also mentions 2 hoses, which I assume are flexi-hoses - so you have had 4 main pipes, plus 2 flexis, plus up to 4 links from flexi to calliper
- Front discs & pads take about an hour to do, and the prices quoted for parts seem reasonable.

I'd say the price was fair as you've had a lot done. Current:
- 2013 L405 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Sold:
- 2004 L322 4.4 Vogue (BRC LPG)
- 2002 L322 4.4 HSE (having fixed timing chain guides)
- 2000 P38 4.6 Vogue (BRC LPG)
- 1981 2-door In-Vogue
- 1980 Ex-Army SIII LWB
- 1976 SIII LWB
- 1968 SIIA
Stripped for parts:
- 2003 L322 4.4 Vogue

Just had mine done front and back £250 in copper

Seems about right, 4 hours work @£60 and a tenner for the roll of Cunifer. 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

MR GLOVER wrote:

Just had mine done front and back £250 in copper

Flexi pipes not changed just front pipes and rear pipes oh yeh and an mot included