Hi Shawser,

That doesn't look like a standard / factory nut? They usually include a captive washer.

But anyway, I'd think to get what's left of that off, It'll need a well placed air-chisel with a sharp point to drive it around.

If it sheered getting it off, I can't imagine you could weld anything to it that would do any better... That really looks like a really nasty problem.

One last thought, a garage with an inductive heater thingy + air chisel?

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
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Yeh it's a nasty one. I've been looking on you tube and seems best way is to drill it out, then replace the stud. Did think a small hole saw might do it. Drill in and cut the shoulder off.

Is there room around it to fit a 'rounded bolt extractor socket' - the type that bites onto the outside with a reverse thread? Or is it deep in a recess in the wheel?

A large hammer and a long 12mm bolt.

Unfortunately the stud isn't separate from the hub.

If you have genuine wheels then your nuts should look like this...




The one you pictured could be for aftermarket wheels, if they have been used on genuine wheels then I'm not surprised it broke as the taper will have been forced into the rebate of the hole and I suspect you will have a damaged wheel...

You need to get to the bottom of the issue as well as get the rest of the nut off...  Pete

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Last edited by Haylands on 11th Feb 2021 2:48pm. Edited 1 time in total

stuart_2006 wrote:

Is there room around it to fit a 'rounded bolt extractor socket' - the type that bites onto the outside with a reverse thread? Or is it deep in a recess in the wheel?

They are aftermarket wheels.

If it was me I would split the remains of the nut. To do this I would accurately drill small holes as close together as possible starting as close to the hub bolt as possible.
Then using a small chisel split the remains of the nut, if it wont move by splitting on one side then repeat on the opposite side.

Although I have done this on all sorts of nuts, I've never done it on a wheel nut but may be worth a try.

good luck. Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

Having looked at that picture, there doesn't seem to be anything left to get hold of. It's all in the taper of the wheel mounting hole.

The only other thing to do, is drill out the stud, I'm sorry to say.

It'd need carefully centre punching and then drilling out with a succession of drill bits, going up in size until you get to 12 or 13mm without going so big as to damage the wheel itself. You'd only have to drill to a depth the same as the length of what's left of the wheel nut (say 10 or 12mm).

Then the wheel should come off and you could replace the drilled out stud (although I think they're regarded as non-replaceable) or better still replace the entire hub.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Yip, you have to replace the hub. I'll try drilling it first.

Depends how handy you are with tools I guess.

Easiest way would be is get an induction heater to heat up the area and get a chisel and see if you can create a gap and then do the same on the other side. Once you've done this you'd need too make up your "key" if you like. Think of it like an angle grinder key but a vertical version of it

The hole saw worked. 4mm pilot hole in stud, then 20 mm hole saw. Slight enlargement to hole in the wheel, but nothing to be concerned about.