Hello everyone I have a 2007 Land Rover HSE 4.4 and every time I start the car I have to disconnect the battery terminal and reconnect it for the key to be able to turn in the ignition it's an aftermarket key 🗝️ I had made because I bought the car without it having one. The key will not even turn at all unless I disconnect the power off the battery and reattach it. Does anybody have any way around this? Please 🙏

Pretty sure that is an immobiliser fault, IIRC it was fuse 18 that covers this, a lot put a switch inline with the fuse so you just toggle it to get the key to turn, it eventually leads to component failure and you need a new lock...

Search on here, there is a lot about it.....  Pete
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Hi,

It appears that the steering lock mechanism is the culprit. The fact that you are able to start and drive the car after disconnecting the battery shows that the lock has failed in the "unlocked" position.
You should have the steering lock ECU disconnected and an emulator plugged in instead.
The emulator can be sourced online from manufacturers like goldcar etc.
This will disable the steering lock but I don't think it's much of a deterrent anyway...

dont know about the 2007, mine is a 2005
has your key got a car key transponder fitted
has it been programed to the car RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Steering lock mechanism on its way out, can fail in the unlock or lock position, you can get away with drilling a hole in the side of the housing in a particular place and lubricating but it's risky and doesn't last, really need an upper steering column to sort it out, expensive, or the bypass that's available about 60 quid iirc.

Mine failed in the locked position luckily when on the drive at home, I resorted to removing the locking mechanism altogether, so it's not going to be a problem ever again and running an electrical jumper from the footwell light to give a 12v supply to enable the key to be turned to start the car only if the interior lights are on.

Works for me and I couldn't be without the car waiting for bits to arrive.

There's a YouTube video on it somewhere and if you search my posts I did link it sometime in the past (if you decide to go this route)

https://www.landroversonly.com/threads/l32...ly.155569/

I've been having the same issue on my car for a long time.

My lock has failed in the unlocked position, so i've been going away with the wd-40 and banging the side of the module hack.

However, since my car has now been stopped for a full 8 months on an engine rebuild, I'm not being able to release it with that hack. I've banged that side of the module to oblivion....

Through the forums, I've seen the goldcar emulator.
If that thing any good?
Is it just a plug it and forget it?
Or do I need to constantly connect it?

For 50€ that seems like a very nice and cheap alternative....

The emulator is plug and play so you just unplug the lock ECU and plug the emulator instead.
It stays permanently plugged in, in lieu of the steering lock ECU, so you have to tuck it away within the column cowling. You won't have to ever touch it again.
Ive been using it for 3 or so years, without a single problem to report.

Great!!

Thanks for your help

You're most welcome, enjoy your FF