hi from a newbie

anyone know where the 'rear' cross link valve is?

Yep, it's behind the rear RH wheel arch liner.

I guess this will be one of my next jobs when the rear air bags give way..... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
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Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Once again FFRR.com has saved me some dosh.

I can barely change a lightbulb but today with the help of this thread I plucked up the courage to have a go at changing the front passengers side air strut. It had collapsed, hissing noise so I assumed it was punctured, the front of the vehicle was on it's bump stops too.

In total it is just seven nuts, twelve if you include the five wheel nuts, it was all done in about two hours even including liberal quantities of tea whilst waiting for the easing oil to free up the stubborn bolts.

Not too pricey either, £227 + vat for the Dunlop strut with 24 months warranty, very pleased chappy here. I'll do the other side next week.

God I love my rangie lol. 03 4.4 V8 petrol / lpg. 1st of many hopefully. I love my Rangie

Did you manage to do the near side without removing the wheel arch liner? 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
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Resurrecting the thread a bit but looks as if I am going to have to do the fronts. Excellent write up Joe.

I have three questions if anyone can assist.

Does the replacement unit come with the paper gasket mentioned or has it to be sourced separately?

Is it worth (necessary?) to get new bolts?

Reference is made to marking the alignment of the inner bolt on the top of the turret. I am not quite clear as to what is intended. Do the three bolts on the top not fall into place without adjustment or is there some "wriggling" to be done?

Thanks in advance. John
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A little tip. If your replacing an already punctured bag? Cut the bag with a stanley knife and this will let the air out & negate the need to remove the wheel arch liner and let the air out of the line

Makes the top airline slightly more tricky but with two pairs of hands, (one to hold the strut and one to undo it) saves quite some time

GREAT write up Joe

Thanks Craig.

Was going to use GapiiD to deflate but a quick stab to a deflated bag would perhaps be more in keeping with my atavistic urges.  John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

@ Weegie

I didn't new paper gaskets, reused existing

Reused existing bolts as all OK, choice is yours

Reference mark for alignment.....


@ Craig

Nice tip, although depending on age of car one might wish to check out the condition of the brake pipes, especially on LHS! Even if this might make one even poorer! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks J90

Still a bit unclear about the reference marks. Does it mean alignment with the bottom bracket at the hub to ensure that it is on the right way round?

Sorry if I'm being thick. Maybe become clear when I get to it? John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

You can't really get it wrong, it only fits one way round....

Both my paper gaskets were crumbs.... I left them out, its been fine...

Bottom strut nuts and bolts suffer from the salt... have a check before you do the job or just get some new ones, they aren't much money....  Pete
__________________________________________________
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Thank you.  John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue - SOLD
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT-Sold

Perhaps need to qualify the alignment point:

a) could be for correctly refitting the existing strut?
or
b) perhaps they have a special alignment tool for the strut in the factory, and this helps to replicate that?

There is a bit of play in the three holes for the studs on the strut, so just helps to get the strut centred properly.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

could one do a shock absorber change and retain the existing airbags if they are in good condition? do they seperate

Joe90 wrote:

@ Weegie

I didn't new paper gaskets, reused existing

Reused existing bolts as all OK, choice is yours

Reference mark for alignment.....


@ Craig

Nice tip, although depending on age of car one might wish to check out the condition of the brake pipes, especially on LHS! Even if this might make one even poorer!

Absolutely Joe & a fair point BUT... If your lower hub to shocker bolts undo, the strut can easily be changed in around 45mins without the need to remove the liner IF..... The job needs doing as an emergency to get you back mobile again sir, that was my tip for saving time

If its a planned job, then thoroughly checking all the other components in the area is of course a good practice and corners should not be cut

viper wrote:

could one do a shock absorber change and retain the existing airbags if they are in good condition? do they seperate