This week my dash has more lights than my xmas tree. The ABS light is on, the lcd is showing HDC inactive and Air Suspension inactive, also the traction control light is on to show that it is inactive.
This all comes after the track rod ends were done. I am wondering if it is all down to a failed ABS sensor as it is possible that one of those were damaged during the recent maintenance.
Can anyone shed any light?

How's your battery? I know it may sound funny! But have the garage flattened your battery whilst doing the job and then bought up faults by either trying to start it without enough charge or worse still jump starting your car!

First try disconnecting the battery for 20mins and see if that helps (remember when you start first time afterwards to put the steering full lock left then full lock right)


Craig

and if it is the battery and i concur with craig that it probably is, a good place to get a replacement is eurocarparts [110amp 920cca varta/bosch 020] and member t24res has just put up a discount code for 15% off [BATTERY15] ... - .- -.




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the battery was flattened. The car was off the road for about a week and i do believe it was jumped. Sorry for being naive but why the full lock of the wheel either way when jumping.
Also if the jumping of the battery did cause it, is this a common thing or is there a procedure for jumping the batt?

Thanks

i had the same thing happen to me when my window tint man kept on running the windows up and down when he was applying the tints, dead battery and it was jumped normally but then all the lights happened..
the fullfat needs a fully charged and proper capacity battery otherwise one ecu starts complaining and then another and before you know it you have xmas tree lights.

turning the steering wheel fully left and then fully right sets the steering parameters and avoids errors.. ... - .- -.




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When you first start the car after a battery disconnection you need to "lock to lock" the steering wheel as it lets the variable power steering know where the front wheels are and turns all the warning lights off on the dash ABS, TRACTION, AIR SUSP etc etc...

Secondly, never ever ever ever jump start a RR! Ever... Point made? We change countless Ecu's that have been blown up by trying to jump start RR's... Take 30mins and charge them, much safer...

Craig

never EVER EVER! Got that, good to know! Jump leads are going in the bin lol

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

Secondly, never ever ever ever jump start a RR! Ever...

Sorry, but I have jumpstarted my previous ones 10,15 20? times. Never had an issue. Jump started others from mine, never had an issue...

The electrical circuits in the RR have to be able to cope with voltages ranging from 10V to 15V+ and varying ampages. If you have a flat battery this acts as a massive cushion in the system too so it is near impossible to fry anything.

Once when VERY tired and not thinking strait I put the jump leads on the wrong way round once, no harm done... Not that I'd recommend it of course.

If the RR wasnt designed to be jumped then it wouldnt have jump terminals. 

I had exactly this last week adn lost all power when driving along! AA man came out and it turned out to be the battery Neg Pole and cable were not tight enough leading to intermittent power supply. Now nice and tight and running puurrrfick!!

ive had the same message and traced it to a wheel speed sensor - £20 later fixed

get it to an indy who has the Landrover diagnostics and they can see the root cause cheers
bogie

the_engineer wrote:

This week my dash has more lights than my xmas tree. The ABS light is on, the lcd is showing HDC inactive and Air Suspension inactive, also the traction control light is on to show that it is inactive.
This all comes after the track rod ends were done. I am wondering if it is all down to a failed ABS sensor as it is possible that one of those were damaged during the recent maintenance.
Can anyone shed any light?

Check the ABS cable on the drivers side front wheel for any cuts or nicks or rub marks sometimes they rub on the inside of the tyre and this causes damage to the cable and will light your dash up.

thats exactly what mine was - drivers side front ABS sensor cable rubbed through...unrealy the sequence of worrying lights it lit up LOL

other small niggles this year; PCV hose split -a small few inch long vacuum hose causing MIL to light up, and a plastic fitting on the rear of the head cracked, loads of steam and no coolant (!)

thankfully all small £20 parts causing chaos in an older vehicle  cheers
bogie

Have to say I have jump started plenty (using the specific jump terminal) with no problems but may have been lucky I guess....

i think the correct way to jump the fullfat is to connect your spare battery/powerpack/charger and let it sit for a while so the fullfats battery gets some charge and the ecu's wake up gently and power up, then turn the key ... ... - .- -.




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Stan, your absolutely correct my friend...
It's just better practice to charge the battery if you have the capability not to jump start them...

And for all of you that disagree! When you finally do knacker an ECU just remember who told you so!!!


Craig