Its probably an interference thing, it was easier to shim the link than remake the strut bracket. That is the only reason that I can think of, and they aren't going to advertise that. Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

miggit wrote:

Just wanted to say that a set of impact sockets (6 slided) are a big help in situations like this, and while I realise that the horse has slung its hook, they might be a consideration before the next job. :

Hex impact sockets, Ingersoll Rand 2135QTIMAX impact wrench and Hydrovane compressor, job jobbed and never been stuck yet

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

I use a De Walt 18v impact wrench, it will work in the middle of a field!! Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I can't afford one, I use a FBH.... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Agree miggit & Steptoe.

I've 2 inherited, very good heavy duty older socket sets and couldn't believe when the one seized nut was damaged by these sockets, which I now know are 12 point sockets as opposed to the recommended 6 point sockets. I only found that out during the course of this thread (you don't know what you don't know).

So, to maybe help a future novice, below is a side by side image of a 6 point socket and a 12 point socket.

The 12 point sockets I've got are good, but they're not the best for breaking seized nuts. As I found out to my inconvenience, they can shear the nut you're trying to 'break' free. The nut might not have sheared had I used a 6 point socket.

In fact, when I removed the second drop link (the passenger side one) I broke the nut free using a 6 point socket (I actually used the 6 point wheel brace that came with my Mercedes Benz Bottle Jack tool kit) and I didn't have to resort to cutting the nut off.



6 point socket (left image) & 12 point socket (right image):

Click image to enlarge

There are a few advantages to using the 6 sided (hex) sockets, the main one is that they grip the nut / blot across the entire face, and as such reduce the chance of slipping and rounding off the the nut / bolt. They also increase the force applied to the stubborn nut / bolt. If you have a well rusted nut and the edges have been eaten by the tin worm you can still get some purchase on the blighter!
If your reading this and thinking its too late I've rounded the nut off, don't despair, and hex socket will normally remove the most mangled of nuts. And if your 13mm bolt is so mangled that a 13mm socket is a sloppy fit, go back to your box of goodies and get the next size down and a big hammer!
Now on that note, I will say that a set of imperial sockets come in very handy when dealing with worn metric nuts. Example an M8 thread has a 13mm head, unless its Japanese (12mm to be difficult), and if its well mangled, a 13 mm socket might be a sloppy fit. So get your 1/2" socket (12.5mm) and bash it on the nut, and all will be good. But if its gone beyond 12.5mm, then hammer on a 12 mm socket, and so on until you can get one to grip. Have also found that Impact sockets can be very handy when the wheel nut key has gone a.w.o.l. , but this applies to different wheel nuts, the ones with the silly flower / star pattern stamped in to them, or the stupid 3 hole ones found on Toyota's!
And one final note, due to my Scottish upbringing, get the Impact Sockets and not the Chrome ones, they are cheaper, and will take a lot of bashing  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

+1 for above.... and if all else fails get some of these

Erwin rounded/rusty nut removers...



(American picture, branded as Erwin over here)

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Miggit & Haylands,

Great insight and advice.

My next tool purchase!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0000CC...F8&me=

(or)

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-..._container

miggit wrote:

Have also found that Impact sockets can be very handy when the wheel nut key has gone a.w.o.l. , but this applies to different wheel nuts, the ones with the silly flower / star pattern stamped in to them, or the stupid 3 hole ones found on Toyota's!
:

Craig, I did say 'different type of wheel nut' there is no way they'd work on an internal splined nut. And I know that some wheel nuts have a collar that spins to stop a socket being hammered on, BUT if you have lost the key, you will need to replace the wheel nuts. And so with the aid of a small cold chisel or trusty bent screw driver, you can remove the collar, and then remove the useless wheel nut. Thus doing away with a trip to the stealer's, who will do the same thing and charge you a fortune.
Most anti theft wheel nuts can be defeated, but it takes time and makes alot of noise, so most thieves will pass on locking wheel nuts. But if its your car and you have no key........ Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Hay, I was just making it crystal clear to members sir...

No problems here Bud, unless you've lost your wheel nut key  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

One method I use with success on seized fixings is to actually tighten the nut/bolt/screw a fraction to just break the "seal"

Then it is easier to unscrew.

Also using this method does not tend to damage the fixing in the important unscrewing direction so it is usually worth a shot.

In the tightening direction you are usually moving the fixing over a cleaner part of thread so it is easier to break the seal.

Just thought I would mention it for others though I guess many of you already knew that. Howard
____________________________________________________
2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

Bashing it with the hammer of Thor works for me
Failing that use a copper and hide hammer from another maker
Works really well on those pesky little blighters that hold the discs on  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!