In theory that would work......... this is as far as we seem to have gone practically, as I don't think anyone has actually tried it.

The DSP (and BM54) power on from an iBus signal, I believe, generated from the on/off button on the screen. That is why the idea of keeping the unit and moving it into the glove box is an easy way to achieve this, and the new loom from the android unit piggy backs on the BM54 plug to feed through to the speakers. I would imagine this is speaker level output, and would just get passed to the DSP, essentially removing the BM54 from the system sound wise.

On the original factory system, the volume is changed by iBus signals to the BM54, which again is easier if you keep the existing system in.

As I see it, if you are looking to use some of the existing units, you have 2 options ;


1) Using BM54 and DSP
2 further options within this ;
a) Feed the AUX line level phono outputs to the BM54 and use the BM54 as an actual amp. You will need the aux in cable / connector mod (on the BM54) for this to work, OR
b) somehow get the line level outs from the android unit and feed them in to say, where the TV module source sound goes into the BM54....select TV on screen in glovebox, and android unit sound comes out, using original systems amps and DSP.

2) Using DSP Only
Feed the speaker level outputs from the android unit direct to the DSP by piggy backing the connector on the BM54. This would effectively override all sound from the BM54, so no matter what source is selected on the original screen, the new android units sound would be heard. Changing volume levels would not be an issue as its done via the speaker levels changing on the feed from the android unit. The original equipment would be needed in the car to keep them all powered on.

We need someone with a fully working system to try some of this to see if the theory is good...........

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

CONTACT ME IF YOU ARE THINKING OF BUYING ONE OF THE UNITS

I have been speaking with erisin and they are prepared to offer a decent discount if we can get an order for 5 or more units together.

Still in the process of getting the final cost for a unit +the 6m lead, but any discount is worth having !

i've moved your other post to 'group buys' Paul.. ... - .- -.




click link for ,

FORUM WIKI

HOW TO Ǝꓕ∀ꓕOꓤ PICS

workshop manual downloads are in our wiki

.

Right as promised I have been thinking about this linking in to the factory harness and not cutting any wire problem, and I think I've got it

So without the benefit of the Android loom I'm going to make a few assumptions, so don't shout at me if it's a tad wrong. In theory it should work as is, but I'm a bit blind here

You need to connect the new loom from the Android to the car, whilst maintaining the connections from the BM54 unit for the data operation of the DSP but you need to intercept the speaker wires from the BM54 and substitute the feed from the Android. Lost yet, I am

so if you buy one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-40PIN-FAKRA-...2c511f55a2

and one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281484290252?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT

You will have...........



and



buy plugging the first one in to the Android loom and the second one in to the BM54 and the DSP, and then plug the the first one's ISO in to the seconds, you will have linked all the data connections between the factory setup, but you will have connected the new Android loom in to the speaker wires going to the DSP. Now you might have to jump some of the power leads between the 2 adaptors and possibly tap into the can bus from the android and the BM54 / DSP adaptor. But the out come is you will not have cut any factory wires, and therefore it is reverse-able. Plus the DSP will still be being told to work from the factory Nav head, so all you'll have to do is leave the radio turned on in the glovebox, and you should have full DSP control, but be listening to the Android.

Well thats wot I finks and now my head really does hurt :blub:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Just seen that I've replied to the earlier post in Group Buys here OOPS! But as it concerns the install side I suppose that this is the right place to rumble on  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Seems to make sense theory wise. Minimal wire cutting if at all..... Just utilises DSP in boot as far as existing system, so crossovers intact.

If you want to go from minimal cutting to minimal wires, the alternative method is feed aux out from android into TV source feed on BM54. Would need to cut wires from TV module to substitute feed.....

So we have 2 methods for the minimalists to try and test.

This is the best thread for the techy thoughts, the group buy one should be for just that. Ironhorse has posted some useful install info in it. Could do with it moving to this thread.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

You forgot to say that if your feeding the aux in to the TV socket, it will have to be a 2005 on touch screen system, as the non touch system is only mono on the TV socket, sorry to all of you with an early system, I'm afflicted that way too  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

By the looks of the second picture the only feeds that are missing are +12v and accy +12v, that should be easy to pick up from the wiring in the boot
Just looked at the wiring for the 40 pin socket and the feeds are there on pin 15 +12v Battery and pin 16 +12v ignition. So a little soldering may be in order, but you haven't cut in to the cars loom  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Baris can do the aux in upgrade to the earlier radios, with either intrernal (pins) or external (phonos). .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Are but that's a lot more than the £25 worth of adaptors that I've found  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

So forgive my ignorance, just a little confused now... what would be the advantages of the dsp and bm54 ? Apart from no wire cutting of coarse. Will it generate better sound quality ? For me I just need to be able to use the fbh. Would I need the dsp to do this ? Or will it work with just the remote.

You must have different wiring to me the Miggit, as the TV is a stereo feed.....

Okie dokie

mjdronfield, sorry bud, when you said TV socket I thought that you were referring to the white and blue plugs on the TV tuner box, what you are referring to is the 40 pin plug.

That has got me thinking ( , I've just got over last nights revelations), If you are going to put the old head unit in the glove box, you will have to remove the CD changer to make the space. In doing that you will have a redundant 3=6 pin wiring or redundant 10 pin. Why not save your self the as5 ache of ripping the interior out of the car and connect to the wiring in the glovebox . I'm on fire today

The only connection that has to be made in the boot is the aerial, it should be simple enough to feed a single coax down the nearside of the car under the threshold plates to the boot. Doing it this way means you only have to remove the CD changer and move the head unit, you will not require the 5/6 meter extension lead at £50, and instead use the short BMW lead to get your canbus connection and lights. Now the only flaw in my cunning plan is there are no lights on the CD changer, but I'm sure that you can find a feed off the instrument / dash lights, God knows there are enough of them there, its like a Christmas tree when you turn on the lights!

I'm good to you Boys

Oh forgot to say, the DSP also powers the Sub, so if you don't mind your ICE sounding like an Ipod with Cheap headphones, go ahead leave it out. Me I'd rather prefer to have the full sound  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Last edited by miggit on 9th Nov 2014 5:30pm. Edited 1 time in total

Now...... I..... Don't ...... Want ........to make ...... things......difficult......

But.......

I don't think the CD changer will be available to select as a source if it does not identify itself on the iBus, which it can't if you remove it.

There must be a piggin way to interface there, would be much simpler...... If we could just hack some signals on the bus we'd be away.......

We need an investigative soul to purchase said unit and check out these methods.

We will not be beaten ! 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport