Got some now!  2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

where did u get them from in the end ? onto no6 Range Rover

Everyone needs a hobby

I had cause to require jump leads the other week when my drivers side window was being replaced, we let the battery drain by accident.

Standard thin jump leads got too hot and couldn't carry the current either. The thicker the better.

Anyone bought on of those Boost starters from Machine Mart? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Mate had a similar thing, always flat when he needed it. It would have to be a real high spec boost starter to start a FFRR from flat. I prefer keeping a 12v battery on standby in the garage. Topped up regularly handy in power cuts to.... but then I am a bit of a survival freak ... just don't mention the guns in the cellar  2010 Disco XS TDV6, 2009 Freelander 2 GS

Previous Landrover products -1990 110 TDI CSW, 2003 TD6 Vogue - RRC TD Vogue, RRC v8 Fleetline, Disco ES V8 LPG, 101 Ambulance "Morph", 1964 SIIa Auto Powered by Jag 4.2 Lump - "Percy".

I was going to point you in the direction of the set Ive just bought from Halfords, but they've been very naughty boys and havent paid the bill for web domain hosting

anyway, they were around £40 and good for 7l petrol or 4l diesel engines if I recall

Oh yes, I big thanks to the nice man with the FFRR from Perth who jumped our dead FFRR in the Gelnshee ski area car park last Sunday

3 years with the D3 and no bother, a month with FFRR and flat battery...welcome to Range Rover ownership

DeltaC wrote:

I investigated an incident a couple of years ago where a qualified mechanic had tried to start a big engine that had one faulty battery on its 24v system and after numerous attempt he realised the problem and jumped the faulty battery with a good one. Electrically, it was an okay thing to do but a spark ignited the expelled hydrogen gas from the exhausted battery which blew the top off the battery and sprayed hot acid everywhere...

Have to ask here (and I'm not condoning skinny jumper leads): how does this incident relate to under dimensioned jumper cables?

And, just out of curiosity, what do you do professionally to investigate accidents like this? 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Steve,
Direct relationship to skinny leads = none. All I wanted to do was highlight that although it is seen as a straightforward operation, there are risks.

If you are placing high loads / stresses on components, they are more likely to fail - If for example:

The leads get so hot that the insuation fails and shorts on the body, it sparks...

If the battery is totally dead or faulty and therefore potentially going to release excessive Hydrogen...


Attempting to start with a sub-optimal battery also shortens the life of the starter motor and jumping has the potential to damage the alternator on either the jumped or the jumper.


Steve - Would you like to expand on your reason for the query? (ie Do you feel it is irrelevant or mis-leading or a.n.other?)

DeltaC wrote:

Steve - Would you like to expand on your reason for the query? (ie Do you feel it is irrelevant or mis-leading or a.n.other?)

No. Not at all

As I wrote, I was just curious about your investigation. And I did not see the correlation between the gas exploding and the thin wires - but that's it. I also wrote that I'm not condoning cheap jumper cables - I agree with you. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

DeltaC wrote:

Steve,
Direct relationship to skinny leads = none. All I wanted to do was highlight that although it is seen as a straightforward operation, there are risks.

If you are placing high loads / stresses on components, they are more likely to fail - If for example:

The leads get so hot that the insuation fails and shorts on the body, it sparks...

If the battery is totally dead or faulty and therefore potentially going to release excessive Hydrogen...


Attempting to start with a sub-optimal battery also shortens the life of the starter motor and jumping has the potential to damage the alternator on either the jumped or the jumper.



Steve - Would you like to expand on your reason for the query? (ie Do you feel it is irrelevant or mis-leading or a.n.other?)

Quote:

its more important to connect in the order and use points away from the dead battery.

DeltaC wrote:

Quote:

its more important to connect in the order and use points away from the dead battery.

Excellent. You've obviously got a bunch more experience than I, I bow to your greater knowledge 

Come on delta dont be like that.

Your a safe nice and chunky expensive leads man.

Im a risk my life cheap ebay leads man.

So be it...

To be honest mate not sure i know the correct order, i do live then make sure i do dead battery earth last well away from the battery....is that correct? 2004 black Vogue TD6

Ground (earth) away from the dead battery if possible, if not then def attach the dead battery first as it will likely be gassing considerably more than the good battery and you'll want to avoid sparks around it. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)