Maybe resolve that issue first and see how the engine feels / sounds after that ?? 2015 4.4 AB
GSXR 1000 K5
R1 1998

I’m wondering now if a faulty MAP sensor would cause the diesel knock. It doesn’t do it when cold. In fact it sounds awesome. As soon as I’ve covered a mile of so it starts rattling like a transit van! 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

What's the error code(s)? Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

I'll check next time it faults 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Maybe get lads at Roean to look at it? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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I might do a smoke test to see if it’s leaking 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Here's the fault.

Click image to enlarge

Funny how often this fault comes up on bank A. I have never seen a post referring to this fault type for bank B. I wonder why?
There are a lot of posts and threads on here about this fault. Issues confirmed as causes range from split hose to split inlet manifold to stuck or sticking turbo linkage to suspect MAPT sensor to poor electrical connections Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

You mention sticking turbo linkages. I watched the drivers side turbo linkage when i turned the engine off and it moves from side to side but seems to stick momentarily and free itself whilst moving.

I hear a repeating squeak as well when its switched off which I assumed was coming from this linkage but when I stuck my head inside the arch it seems to be coming from higher up above the turbo.

I assume Bank A is the drivers side? 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

Yes bank A is drivers side.
The turbo actuators go through an initialisation process when you switch on the ignition and again when you switch off the ignition. As you say you can see the drivers side one move, easier if you jack up front and take off the wheel. On mine the initialisation seems to go through a few actions which look a bit jerky but it also does move to both extremes of travel. With the ignition off and a suitable tool like a piece of stiff wire bent at the end you can move the linkage and should be able to feel if it appears to be stiff or binds at any point. If so get a spray can of 3in1 oil and use the tube to direct oil onto both pivots and either use the wire to move the linkage and free it off or cycle the ignition a few times. It is easest to see top pivot from under the car. I think the drivers side linkage is more exposed to road spray etc from wheel arch than passenger side. Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

I took the front wheel off yesterday and got better access to the drivers side turbo

The linkage seems quite free and I can move it with my fingers to both extremes. I notice it doesn’t flick back in either direction though and if left, it will stay in the middle unless I move it with my finger. I sprayed GT85 on it and worked it up and down several times.

Lasted a day and bonged again today

I guess the Indy will know more when he sticks it in his diagnostics. 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded

I still have 'unexplained bong' with that error code despite much effort to resolve (without major dismantling).
On mine it only seems to happen if I keep the throttle pedal in one position for more than about 2 or 3 seconds going up hills or when accelerating. I have got used to driving it under those circumstances with constant small variations of throttle position which is a bit of a pain but manageable. I wish I could eliminate the problem though. Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

I could live with it if it didn’t keep shutting everything else down! 2010 MY Vogue SE TDV8 3.6 Stornoway Grey- fully loaded