This was really helpful for me as I am chasing a random, intermittent error from my rr height sensor and could not figure out where the wiring went. Replaced the pigtail to the sensor and sensor, still get the problem need to move upstream. Am really wondering now if I am getting a similar chaffing. Will report back when I get the inspection hatch open.

Have the same issue with fuel guage showing empty. Has anyone any pictures of how to remove the clamps / springs from inside the tank? Just in case I have to remove the internal stuff.

Physio

I had the same erratic fuel gauge readings last year. I don't have photos of the removl of the pump from the tank, but it is a case of taking care and referring to the diagrams in the workshop manual in the Wiki.

fuel system/tdv8/2component locations.

You'll have to do it by feel. The bridge holding the pump in place is simply pressed down to allow it to come out of the indent of the top of the tank, simialr in the left hand unit. Geting ot back is a bit tricky, but care and a bit of time works.

On opening up the tank found the RH main pmp unit on its side. Obviously still operational but the sender (whichis integral to the pump unit) was lying at an odd angle and not giving the correct reading. The bridge had cracked as in Bushy's picture and allowed the two pillars to fall into the pump unit, then the pump fell out of position. Had to take the pump apart to retrieve the pillars. Repaired them by inserting a rivet nut in the top of the pllars and drilling though the securing bridge to fit (IIRC) a 4mm bolt and securing washers

Thats great. Thanks to you both. One more question. Whats the best connectors to use once the old plugs are removed? And do they have to be 'diesel' proof?

IIRC I simply used in line crimps suitable for the cable size and they weren't
diesel proof. I would recommend getting fuel line pliers and a set of fuel hose clips with pliers to fit. (see photo far left and centre bottom). Not expensive and worth having for ease of remval/fitting.

Thanks Richard. Will do. Will let you know how i got on.

Good luck  Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Thanks for the great posts people. Dealer i brought the car from had not heard of this fix!! so they are happy as only cost them the labor to apply the fix.
Gauge is working properly again now very pleased indeed. have a few other bits to sort but these are all service items.

I too seem to have this problem, suddenly fuel gauge showing zero and not knowing of this sender fault I filled her up !
Since then I have covered 100 miles before the misfire/judder started but fortunately I was able to get home before the engine stopped completely (two miles )
I am contemplating having an attempt to disconnect the first connecter and replace it a few times to see if this solves the problem but not sure if this connector is above the fuel level or not ? I definitely would not attempt to remove the fuel pump from the tank as this a little beyond my expertise and confidence. also this would have to be done on my drive so not really currently weather permitting.
So, the alternative is getting it fixed by garage. Somebody mentioned in a previous post that the engine will restart ok after limp mode by switching off and on again but the problem will resume later, does anybody know about how many miles later and will it work doing this several times?
The reason I ask is because the garage I have in mind is about 25 miles away from me and I wouldn't really like to have to pay to have the car transported there.
Any suggestions or info would be welcome. RR owner

Old-un, most of the sometimes three, four, or five connectors are below fuel level, it's best to replace all or you may end up doing it again.

I can't help with how far you get before limp mode, sorry.

Bushy Current: 2011 FFRR Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
Previous: -
2004 FFRR Vogue 4.4 V8 with LPG
1997 P38 4.0 SE with LPG
1997 P38 4.6 Vogue with LPG

Finally bit the bullet and arranged for an indy to sort it for me. Garage was 11 miles away and I set off with my wifey following, all done in limp mode and as expected the vehicle stopped every 500 yards but restarted every time 'till I eventually hopped to my destination ( just keep away from motorways ! )

Indy suggested the pump and senders may need to be replaced costing all told £800, but eventually agreed to look at possibility of a fix as discussed in this forum. This they did by removing gubbins to the bench and crimping. As I had made access to the tank easier for them by tying up the carpet etc the job was completed faster than usual. This was reflected in the cost of the job which amazed me at £180 including VAT! Will certainly use them again.

Only problem now is to get rid of the inevitable diesel smell from the sponge like material under the carpet, any ideas out there  RR owner

Last year the in tank fuel pump on our old TD6 packed up. I wasn't wanting to spend lots of money on the 150,000 miles workhorse so bought a cheap pump unit complete with the fuel level senders.

All has been good but yesterday the fuel gauge dropped to zero. I pulled the units out today and found what I suspect is a manufacturing fault (and possibly the reason for the price...) the wires that are soldered to the resistance wiper board were not supported at the solder joint at all.

What i found was that there is a hole in the plastic moulding just below the board and if the wire is put through the hole and the corresponding hole in the board and then soldered it is supported so that no load is put on the solder joint.

If fitting a new unit take a look at the wires and check that they are supported on the arm that moves so that the solder joint doesn't break after repeated movement. 2012 L322 Westminster V8 - Current
Naylor TF1700 - No. 55 of 100 Built - Current (on dry days)
2006 L322 Vogue TD6 146,000 miles- Current
MG ZTT CDTi Estate - Sold when approaching 250,000 miles
2 1/4 Petrol 1972 Series III Ex Farnborough Airfield - Sold
TD300 Discovery Long gone, but not forgotten

I have just done mine.

I pulled the driver's side cover off and found the plug in the tank with the blue and black wires. Before I cut them I thought I would try some contact cleaner in the plug and pull it apart about a dozen times.

I also cleaned the plug on the top of the cover with the 6 pins and did the same, switch cleaner, open and close a dozen times and now have a working gauge without any cutting or soldering. Dec 2011 L322 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Orkney Grey/Sand leather

I have a 4.4 TDV8 and encountered the same problem as Richard-RJFF and Bushy30.

My pump "appeared" to still be in position and I had only ventured into the tank to proactively attack the electrical connections. Upon inspection, my bridge had cracked where the two metal pins sit via a compression fit and they were skew allowing the pump to move around slightly.

I followed RJFF's advice (thank you) and used a m4 rivet nut which I gently expanded into the metal pin. To avoid the cracks on the bridge propagating further, I used an epoxy but I am sceptical of its durability on the nylon bridge (I think) submerged in diesel over the long run. Nonetheless, the mechanical fastener (rivet nut) seems to be sufficient on its own.

This was one of the worst jobs I've ever had to do during my 6 years of Land Rover ownership(s)! Here is my advice for anyone attempting this (and I big thanks to everyone who has posted so far).

The sender unit on the active pump detaches [2011 4.4 TDV8] (although the wires remain attached). It slides up towards the pipes. If you can't get the unit out with it attached, this is an option.

Getting the pump out (and in) is easier if you think of it as a corkscrew and twist as you bring it up through the opening in the tank.

A gas mask with an appropriate filter will make this job much easier. There is nothing worse than struggling to bring the pump up through the opening whilst choking on the fumes. For those doing this in summer or in the southern hemisphere - do this early in the morning!

A shoulder length chemical glove also allows you the time and patience for the inevitable trial and error in locating the pump / sender unit.

If you, like me initially, siphon fuel back into active side of the tank then your gauge will show zero even if the sender units are working. I think this is an artefact of the calculation used to avoid sloshing showing up on the gauge etc. I later siphoned a few litres of diesel into the passive side too and the gauge showed what I calculated it should for the number of litres in the two tanks combined.