Phoenix wrote:

Yes, you need to disconnect the brown cable from the body after you have set up the multimeter as a parallel ground path and obviously after the vehicle has shut down for >30 mins. I would also suggest pushing the door, bonnet & tailgate latches to their closed position (but with the doors open) so that you have full access to the inside of the vehicle without activating any of the door latches which will, of course, wake up vehicle systems.

OK so this is my drain after all systems have gone to sleep. The only thing I didn't do is lock the car (assuming that doesn't matter?) I latched the doors anyway and made sure all lights are off.

Am I right in thinking it should be under 0.05 ?

Click image to enlarge

 2005 L322 4.4 AJV8

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Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Dec 2023 10:52pm. Edited 1 time in total

The car has only been on the drive with a brand new battery for two days, not driven except for the 30 mile drive I took it on after installing the new battery. The battery reading yesterday afternoon was 12.5V and today 24 hrs later it is 12V and I got another suspension error (which I've cleared again). That's like 50% battery charge in 24 hours...which seems a lot for a 60mA draw. Could my alternator be causing issues? How can I accurately test that? (When I start the car the voltage goes up to 14.x)

Next step is to poke around in the rear fuse box. Just this moment realise I forgot to open and tape the front glove box latch so will do that after and wait another 30 mins!

No trackers/immobilisers connected that I'm aware of, but will have another look.

There was a dash cam connected which kept falling off the windscreen so I unplugged it and left the cable wrapped around the rear view mirror. Could that be causing a draw at all? No idea where the cable even connects to...! 2005 L322 4.4 AJV8

Last edited by camcc on 18th Dec 2023 6:07pm. Edited 2 times in total

I have just gone through all this myself earlier today, if the car is stationary for 2 or 3 weeks the battery is dead, but this is on my RR 2004 4.4 BMW Engine Petrol V8

On my MM (Multimeter) it reads 59 milliamps, so I too have a parasitic battery drain over all these years

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Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Dec 2023 10:53pm. Edited 1 time in total

OK....after a few hours measuring across fuses I am unfortunately no closer to finding the source of my ~60mA drain.

Frustratingly my Owners Handbook has the wrong fuse diagrams (fuses don't correlate to what is actually plugged in). Diagrams I found on Google for 2002-2005 and 2006-2010 models are also wrong! Only what's printed in the car is correct.

Rear Fuse Box - there were no fuses which had a clear/solid reading, however the below showed a potentially phantom reading for a few seconds, so I removed them anyway and waited 30 minutes. Multimeter connected to the battery still showing 50mA draw!

F8 Heated rear window - Removed fuse
F13 Air suspension compressor - Removed fuse
F16 Central locking tailgate - Removed fuse

Front Fuse Box
F22 AV not sure what - Removed
F26 Windscreen wiper delay ECU - 0.8mV/493mA - Removed
F40 CD Changer - 0.3mV/20mA - Removed
F46 Instrument pack - 0.7mV/46mA
F47 Heated washer jet relay - 0.3mV/68mA - Removed
F49 Nav, On-board comp, monitor, Audio system - 0.7mV/158mA - Removed

Waited for 30 minutes and the multimeter connected to the battery still showing a 50mA draw!

Not sure where to go next!!

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Phoenix wrote:

The suspension error could be the cause of your battery drain if it is causing the system to be more active than it should - what error are you getting?

See pic below. It happens when the battery voltage gets down <12V. I think it's a result of the drain, not the cause but happy to be challenged on that. Also, see previous post above for latest troubleshooting update. Appreciate all your advice so far.

 2005 L322 4.4 AJV8

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Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Dec 2023 10:53pm. Edited 1 time in total

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Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Dec 2023 10:53pm. Edited 1 time in total

Phoenix wrote:

What DTC are you getting for the suspension fault

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Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Dec 2023 10:54pm. Edited 1 time in total

Eek, that is a bit above my current skill set!

I will need to do some research on how to check those bits (air line vent etc.) are they all under the dome in the middle of the spare wheel? I don’t have any water ingress/or damp in the boot.

New air suspension relay on order just incase. 2005 L322 4.4 AJV8

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Last edited by Phoenix on 23rd Dec 2023 10:54pm. Edited 1 time in total

Have you tried physically disconnecting the SatNav DVD unit yet? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Hi all,

Apologies for the radio silence. I've been away over Christmas and haven't had any time to troubleshoot my battery drain further. The good news is I disconnected the battery while I was away and she started up no issues after a week or so. I've driven her almost every day since so no further non-start issue or error codes (but I assume I still have a drain)

Since my last update I've replaced the air suspension relay and cleaned the contacts on the air suspension fuse. I've also got an air compressor vent/filter on order so will replace that as @Phoenix suggested.

@Joe90 I haven't yet unplugged the AV system and plan to do that next. I had watched something on YouTube which instructs to connect two optical cables together but need to have a root around in the AV cubby.

Side-note: Not sure why but all of Phoenix's posts on this thread have been replaced with '...' which is a little odd/unhelpful. Unsure if that is intentional or an automatic post expiration setting... anyhow! 2005 L322 4.4 AJV8