I have just had the same problem and to keep me on the road I have simply with hacksawblade cut the hoses off closest to the rear and used copper pipe and compression elbows and stainless hose clips to bypass the rear. I like the idea of getting around to bypassing the rear pipes with hoses. Have you any photos of the route you took and if you had to protect the hoses from rubbing? Thanks

Hi. I didn't get any pics. I just remember finding the route across fairly obvious.
I started from the rear left wheel arch, at the rear heater pipes, and fed each pipe over the subframe then over the rear over the propshaft. There are other pipes and cables over the propshaft there, so you can cable tie the new pipes. I used 4 or 5 there to ensure it wouldn't foul the propshaft. Then it's an easy route to the 2 pipes underneath the right sill to join it all up.
The whole job took and hour or so. Must be nearly a year since I did it, and I've had no problems at all.
Good luck!! 👍

Many thanks

How confident are you in it being 16mm? 😂
I’d quite like to order the pipe in before I put mine on the ramp…
Cheers Rich

Tommybuk wrote:

I had the same leak at the rear, from these crappy ally pipes on my 2016 4.4. Fixed for £50.

1. Identify the leaking pipe and follow it along where it comes in from the inner sill underneath the drivers side half way back. Cut the 2 ally pipes where they come in from the sill.

2. Remove rear wheel arch liner from the other side (passenger side). Identify the same 2 ally pipes, feed and return, going into the heater. Cut them off to about 4 inches.

3. Buy 4 metres of 16mm (measure to check size) coolant pipe to fit over the Cut ends.

4. Attach the new pipe to the Cut ends under the wheelarch and feed across the car, routing as required. There's different ways of routing without nipping the pipes.

5 fix the pipes with clips/ strong cable ties at sensible points to secure, under the car.

6. Cut and fix the new pipes where you've cut the ally pipes at the inner sill on the drivers side.

7. Bleed coolant as required.

Took about 2 hours or so, and most of the ally pipe is bypassed.

8. No problems/leaks since doing it 6 months ago.

My 2018 4.4 with 62K mls has developed this leak, and I assume it’s from same spot as mentioned on this thread. Also found puddle underneath rear driver passenger seat. I’m going to call LR assistance out tomorrow and see if they can get the car into MD quicker and hopefully covered under warranty. Also hoping LR assistance can provide a replacement vehicle while mine is being repaired.

What’s strange is I topped up 1litre of coolant after getting low coolant level warning 2 was ago. I’ve been checking at regular intervals, level was slightly dropping. Last checked on Saturday and level was middle of min-max, didn’t drive the car other than taking out of drive and back again and then when I started this morning I got Low Coolant Level warning, reservoir was bone dry to eye, It took full 1litre again.
So don’t understand why the coolant would be leaking slowly over 2wks while doing 200 motorway miles and then suddenly empty the reservoir?

It is fairly standard size coolant pipe. I replace mine a while back running from just behind the front wheel under the sill back to the rear left pipes in the wheel well area.



Red dots mark which pipe is the same. V8 or else ...

Update on my car, coolant leak from Aux pipes to rear heater console. Initially Warranty claim was rejected.

But after further photos and details of location of leak etc by dealer to warranty team, they have now accepted to replace both pipes under warranty.

So if you do get initial NO by warranty, then ask dealer to send photos and detailed report to warranty and they might accept it.

Dealers have order replacements pipes and other fittings to carry out full repair under warranty.

Also they provided me a nice Mercedes S class hire car as loan car until my car gets repaired.

What purpose do coolant lines in the rear of the vehicle serve? 2023 L460 Range Rover SE P400
2019 L405 Range Rover ATB LWB

If the vehicle has 3 or 4 zone climate then you have an additional HVAC unit in the left hand rear quarter serving the rear passenger compartment. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

will have a check and see what mine are like

I recently had mine done under warranty without any problems ,I think depends on who deals with your car and how much effort wants to put in it.

Who was your warranty provider?

I got Land Rover extended warranty although is the las year as the car has over £100k miles now

Ahhh, guessing it’s manufactures extended warranty from new and that’s why they don’t quibble! If it were JLR used it would be through a third party provider albeit hidden behind JLR blurb. Hence why after sales warrenty usually say no! And yours did not air… 👍

I made a bypass solution in a very simple way. A piece of EPDM hose 16mm thick and 1 meter long. Hose can go up to 120 degrees. I also had a coolant leak above the rear subframe so a very difficult spot. Thought of several possibilities but this is the simplest solution and costs 2 hours and 10 euros for the hose (1 meter). The aluminum pipes are loose about 1 liter of coolant. Be careful because at the first cut the coolant squirted out. So put on safety glasses and old clothes. I secured the rubber hose to the diesel tank mounts with tie raps so it's rock solid. The epdm rubber hose is pretty stiff so I had to heat it with a heatgun. With water pump pliers and some pulling and pushing I managed to pull this hose 4 cm over the aluminum pipe. Used 4 stainless steel clamps for 2 euro. The gray electricity box is only needed to make the workspace a little bigger. I used a multi tool to cut the aloy pipes. Watch out for the red flat cable and black thin plastic tube. Because otherwise you got a much bigger problem.

What the consequences are for the operation of the 4 zone air conditioning in the rear, I was just curious about that. I can tell you now: the hot air just works in the back, also separately so you can still control left and right separately. Left 22 degrees and right 30 degrees just works. This hot air comes from the front and runs under the center console to the back with a black flat plastic tube. Air conditioning I didn't do anything to it so just works. So what is not working now that the bypass is made? Only difference is that the there is NO warm air coming from above. So the rear fan in the ceiling next to the interior light by your head is not giving out warm air. That's all but for me no issue.

Summarized: 2 hours en 12 euros (or like £ 10 pounds). Filling extra coolant due to the loss of1 liter is not needed because the rear coolant circuit is much shorter now (i think 2 meters each pipe so 4 meters in total).

Click image to enlarge