Managed a few hours after work throughout this week. Nearly ready to lift. Just need to get under and do the exhaust and bell housing then remove the intake on top. Need to get a 2nd pair of eyes for the lifting so will maybe recruit the wife. (What could go wrong!?) Any tips on the lift? Or is it as straight forward as im thinking it is?

Click image to enlarge

Hi all,
I'm just about to lift the engine out of my 4.4 L405 and have a question about the engine anchor lifting points. The JLR manual shows how to strap the lifting plates, but it’s based on the gearbox being removed. It looks like we’re keeping the gearbox in the car, which makes sense.

Could anyone help me identify the correct lifting points?

I can see the front lifting point from one of the 4RRS photos — it looks like a flat plate was fitted into the idler threaded hole. But what about the rear of the engine?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Click image to enlarge

As you say you cannot fix the proper mounting plate at the rear if the gearbox is still in the car, from what I can remember I just found a suitably strong point on the rear of the drivers side cylinder head and used that, sorry I can't remember exactly but pretty sure I didn't remove anything to 'free up' a hole. I didn't have the JLR brackets, so improvised (think the one I used at the rear was a Defender engine lift bracket that I had lying around. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Thank you, I appreciate your reply.

Raf

Just be careful with the primary turbo (drivers side) actuator as the engine comes out as it gets very close to getting bashed! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Yes, noted – I'll be very careful with that! I know getting a new actuator these days is a challenge. Right now I’m just clearing out the garage to try and make space for the engine stand haha. People always say I’m lucky to have a double garage, but it feels tiny when you’ve got a lot of cr*p in there!

Hey Guys,

4RRS Thanks so much for the write up, i followed your tool list and parts list as i am in the same boat. number 3 main rotated a little and blocked oil to 2 rods.

I am just waiting on my block back at the moment, but am having trouble with the main tensions, i seen you posted a chart in another thread, but when following those specs, its pulls my bearing bores oval. Did you have the same issue? Did you have to bolt it and then linebore it to suit? also, what was the bearing clearance when assembled? did you plastigauge it?

Not another!! Mine was a big end bearing as opposed to mains, I had no problems using the torque values i posted, however i used a new conrod as they can go oval from when they knock.

Are you having problems with the mains as opposed to the big ends? If so i fear it would need line boring, that's a whole different game. I didn't plastigauge it as they break away torques were in spec, just over 40k and still running great!

Let.me know and I'll try and assist if I can. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

My main rotated about 10mm, didnt fully spin, thats what starved the big ends.

When using those specs and pulling the caps down, they go from about 75.01 to 74.96. so they close up quite a bit, theres a million different tensions on these engines, the 3.0L which have the same bolts, "i think" are now using 40nm 90nm then 45degrees, which ends up about 165nm which is distorting the tunnel.

at 100nm no distortion, but i think thats not tight enough, ill just pull em down the way you did then get it tunnelled i reckon, thats the safest bet. then the bolts are tight enough, bearing crush will be spot on then we can set the oil clearance.

Got you!

Mine was purely a spun big end and as I sourced a good crank at standard size, I just replaced the mains and big end bearings with King std sized bearings, a new conrod and didn't look into tolerances too much.

The chart I posted isn't the most intuitive, but it worked for me. The main cap bolts and conrod bolts are common across the 306DT & 448DT engines, I bought some main and big end aftermarket bolts but wasn't happy as you could feel them stretch as I pulled them down, so re-used the original main and big end items, apparently good for 3 uses.

Bear in mind that the later 306DT GEN 2 uses tabbed big end bearings and maybe the big end torque specs have been revised to suit, however I am not aware of any changes to the main bearings.

For the crank main bearings I used :-
Stage 1 - 60nm
Stage 2 - 90 degrees
Stage 3 - 45 degrees

With the original bolts it felt safe pulling down to the above values

Once the main caps were torqued, I then torqued the cross bolts:-
15nm
30nm
45 degrees

I seem to remember going to about 30 degrees for the croos bolts on stage 3 and thought that was enough as I was wary as they felt on the limit.

Break away torque was between 12-13nm all assembled.

Did you have to grind the crank big ends or mains? L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Crank was toast, bought a second hand crank, its all std, itll just get a birthday, good clean and polish.

I followed your lead and went with king bearings aswell, bought a over size kit and std kit for the mains and 2 new genuine rods to replace the ones that spun, there was no damage, but i was not using them anyway for peice of mind.

i bought genuine bolts in LR bags, so ill use them. Ill go visit the machine shop Monday, hes a great guy and does great work, just hard with no information and so many variables

Thanks again

I assume you've used the std size mains?

I wasn't aware main or big end bolts were available, certainly not in the UK, I have a mate who's a MD parts manager and he went through various channels within JLR and drew a blank for both, be interested in the part numbers of both if you can share.

I know another guy who works at the JLR engine manufacturing center in Wolvehampton and he could get zero info on the 448DT as it was built by Ford in Mexico and manufacturing info was never shared with JLR, this goes back to when Ford owned JLR and had developed the 448DT for the F150 pick up truck in the US and then realised a diesel version of the F150 would never sell and hence it sat on the shelf, until they decided to shoehorn it into the Range Rover. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

I used the part number you supplied and got them from Turner Engineering

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/produc...g-cap-bolt

ill need to go through and find out where i got the rod bolts from, i "think" it was turner as well as they listed the tensile strength on the ad

at the moment i have a set of std mains, and over sized bore mains both for STD crank. the trip on monday will dictate what we do there

Oh ok, I seem to recall the bolts I had, had been out of stock and then they managed to get some but weren't bagged. The markings on them were different to the JLR ones.

The tech data for the King bearings is on their website for journal sizes etc. Don't forget the upper and lower bearings are different materials and need to be orientated correctly. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.