Interesting thread! I am currently unable to get into the car, the battery went flat, not a peep, and the key will not unlock, as the key is not contacting the internal key barrel indents. So, how do you get in? The only way I can think of is to try and get power onto the starter motor, somehow, and get enough power to unlock using the smart key. It must be Land Rover's answer to the Smart Key cloning. I read on another forum, someone sawing a rear lock striker plate in half. How?, no room. Another said there is a pull cord on the top tailgate, under the trim. It is inside the car, so it has to be open, one suspects. Glass-Cutter is another option. Any ideas chaps?

I had a similar issue and ended up cutting the OSF door striker (handle cable had snapped so it wouldn't open but I could enter using the key on the NSF door). Made a bit of a mess though, mainly because I/we didn't cover the blade properly on the sides and it rubbed the paint off the door shut.

You need a decent blade and power saw. See my owner's thread for the pictures. There is also a YouTube vid of someone doing the same.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic69748-15.html 2012 Vogue TDV8 in Aintree green over sand

QBee

AGM is the correct spec for the MY11
You might get reduced longevity / less efficient charging on other types of battery, e.g. lead acid

These cars are so sensitive with batteries I have resorted to installing a BM6/BM2 battery monitor on all my cars. Relatively cheap (about £10) if you order on aliexpress etc, these fit to the battery and you can monitor the charge, charging rate and start up power fluctuations over time on your phone via bluetooth.

One issue I have seen on another car is that modern stop start and similar cars with AGM batteries use smart charging from the car rather than it just charging when on.

Had an issue with the 'intelligent' alternator on my partner's Audi not charging the AGM battery at all on a long motorway trip (only charged when foot off the throttle and coasting which made it an interesting drive to say the least) and this little gadget was great at seeing when the car feeds power to the battery and then throttles it back. The issue sorted itself out after a few weeks, but could be signs that your alternator is having issues. Tom

Current Drive
2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography - Santorini Black - Ivory Leather

Previous Drives
2004 Model Vogue Td6 (Touchscreen) - Java Black - Parchment Leather
1994 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Soft dash - Niagara Grey - Grey Leather
1972 Series III SWB Safari - Green (Hand Painted) - Black Plastic

jagracer wrote:

Interesting thread! I am currently unable to get into the car, the battery went flat, not a peep, and the key will not unlock, as the key is not contacting the internal key barrel indents. So, how do you get in? The only way I can think of is to try and get power onto the starter motor, somehow, and get enough power to unlock using the smart key. It must be Land Rover's answer to the Smart Key cloning. I read on another forum, someone sawing a rear lock striker plate in half. How?, no room. Another said there is a pull cord on the top tailgate, under the trim. It is inside the car, so it has to be open, one suspects. Glass-Cutter is another option. Any ideas chaps?

that's what I have done, using a CTEK MXS 5, and only plug it in when not using her for a week or so

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post530758.html

I also have a NOCO Boost GB150 in the boot of the car, had to use it once when visiting a car show and we had all the doors open and radio on, eventually the battery died, so I was well chuffed when the NOCO easily started the car

my next job is to figure out what to do if I park at an airport for 2 or 3 weeks, and cannot use the key to open my car, I know there is the cap on the passenger door that you remove and use the key to open the door in an emergency, so I will try that out and see how easy it is, and what tools if any I should take with me on holiday to prise the cap off !