Hi guys
My 2004 td6 has had a few issues and after taking to a specialist I've been told it needs a transfer box motor! After enquiring with LR and the part is £1300??
Does anyone know of a good second hand one available for reasonable money or where to start looking?
Also I've been told it has play in the front prop shaft but requires an upgraded unit??
Any advice I'd be greatful.
Thanks in advance

Have a search round the internet looking at Land Rover parts companies. Even ask the sponsors of this site.
I paid 1/3 that price for an aftermarket branded unit that looked identical to the faulty one I removed.
Make up your own mind about fitting that or a genuine one.
I worded this reply so it does not offend those who will never use non LR parts or those who have a bee in their bonet about certain aftermarket brands

Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto

Thanks for the reply!

I've found the motor for around the £575 mark but non genuine LR?
To me that's more reasonable for an item that'll be rarely used as Im not much of an offroader!

I'm not to worried about genuine items aslong as they work properly! Lol

Someone posted about this recently. I think it was RRPhil. Someone on another site has been making a new part for the motors. They fail on a sensor of some sort and can only be sorced as a complete unit. This guy was making the faulty part at a fraction of the price. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Look in ebay.de and search for BMW X3 or X5 Stellmotor VTG or Verteilergetriebe Motor, price is always around 300 - 400 Euros. Regaaaaaards..... TDV8 4.4 from 2012, 278.000km like new + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

Unfortunately the NV225 shift motor is unique to the Range Rover - the BMW’s only having single range transfer boxes.

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Thanks for the info!

I don't mind paying £575 but everywhere is out of stock it seems??

LRDirect have four types to choose from ("normal stock" to 1-3 days for genuine LR part)

http://www.lrdirect.com/IGH500010-Motorasy/?sfi=IGH500010


Also, we should mind having to pay over £500 for what is in essence a small electric motor (flymo strimmer ) and some gearing! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Joe90 wrote:

LRDirect have four types to choose from ("normal stock" to 1-3 days for genuine LR part)

http://www.lrdirect.com/IGH500010-Motorasy/?sfi=IGH500010


Also, we should mind having to pay over £500 for what is in essence a small electric motor (flymo strimmer ) and some gearing!

IIRC this is where I bought by new transfer motor from, online. Delivery 2/3 days. The new motor is still sitting in its wrapping waiting to be used  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Land Rover’s list price for IGH500010 is currently over £1600 incl. VAT

Less than two years ago it was £800

If/when gyrogypsy starts selling the potentiometer separately the price will, no doubt, drop significantly.

Land Rover are just making as much money as they can, while they can, because the product is unique to the L322.

Phil

Hi Phil, I've got this problem on my 03 V8 RR. It started in the bad weather when I used Lo range. Anyway I took the motor off today & it's only a 10 min job with 3 10mm bolts and a multi pin plug. I got the "transfer box in neutral" message on the dash.

The reason for mentioning this is I stripped the motor down and the problem seems to be the bushes on the motor. They are all broken & worn, even though the car has never been used off road so has had minimal use. I took it to Ellison's in Blackburn and they will ring me on Monday to let me know if they can fit new brushes in the motor. They said it shouldn't be a problem. I'll post back on how it all goes. Thought I'd mention it as I know you live in Blackburn, I'm only up the road from you in Darwen. Range Rover 4.4 V8 Vogue

@Phil
Where does this potentiometer sit in the motor assembly and why are they not avalible seperatly? How and why do they fail? Can hi/low range be selected manually without the motor? [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Rob2529 wrote:

Where does this potentiometer sit in the motor assembly and why are they not avalible seperatly? How and why do they fail? Can hi/low range be selected manually without the motor?

The potentiometer :

Click image to enlarge

sits here :

Click image to enlarge

You’d have to ask Land Rover why they aren’t available separately

I suspect they fail through lack of use – most of us hardly ever select low range so the potentiometer wiper just sits on the same part of the carbon track, year in and year out, and eventually the contact starts to ‘corrode’ and contact becomes intermittent

Click image to enlarge

High and low ranges can be selected manually but you would have to remove the motor first, turn the lead screw :

Click image to enlarge

by hand, realign the motor gear (by powering up the electric motor) and then replace it. Not exactly convenient!

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Phil

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

RRPhil wrote:

I suspect they fail through lack of use – most of us hardly ever select low range so the potentiometer wiper just sits on the same part of the carbon track, year in and year out, and eventually the contact starts to ‘corrode’ and contact becomes intermittent