Ryan I suspect your choice is going to be pretty limited on side indicators. The size of the bulb will be one of the critical things as the space afforded to the side indicator bulb is not going to allow for some bulb types.

Also as Stan states the bulb will need to be amber/orange not white.

This bulb looks small enough to be a direct replacements.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-ERROR-FREE-C...33751e64d2

Also found these Osram bulbs, but at £20 a pair there very expensive and no mention of them being canbus error free, so I suspect they may give errors. Might be worth asking the seller I guess.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OSRAM-LED-AMB...258400049a

@Prop

Reply off seller you found is "none of the osram LEDS are canbus sorry, however osram now does a canbus control unit to allow no errors but we have not yet listed this product yet".

Plug and play bulbs or nothing for me at this time.

Thanks

i've just installed my cree amber bulbs in the rears and much joy, they are very bright and sharp like yours are Ryan...
and certainly the contrast between the led brake light and these cree indicators is better.. ... - .- -.




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Stan, which bulbs did you go for in the end, the 30watt or 50watt? And could you supply the link?

i went for the 50watt ones prop mainly because of the extra cree's on the side of the bulb..

link, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291011466194?ssP...1438.l2649 ... - .- -.




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Thanks Stan.

Wow they look massive, but it looks like they fit fine judging from your comments.

Did the flash rate alter at all ie slower or faster, just wondering if the extra wattage/load affects the flash timing?

Did you just do the rears then?

While I love the idea of brighter rear indicator bulbs I am just a little concerned about running 50watt bulbs in place of 21watt. But now we have guinea pig,,

Any chance of some daytime video of these bulbs in action or even better a side by side comparison of the original bulb on one side and the new 50watt led the other?

the length is longer by about a cm but they do fit..the i only did the rears and flash rate is slightly faster..
there's not alot of info on the web but it seems these only use 8 watts of power so less than the standard bulb.. dont ask me how 50 watts converts into 8 watts but apparently it does, something to do with the driver....

i'm of to germanland tomorrow and i didnt have time today to take any video of a side by side comparison but on install i switched on the hazards/brakes and you can now see the indicator better against the brake.. ... - .- -.




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Stan,

Small world, I'm off to Germany myself at the weekend.

The wattage specs do seem to conflict. The bulb you have consists of 10 x 5watt cree leds. There is no way that it can use only 8watts. Normally with leds bulbs the inbuilt driver adds wattage, it cannot reduce it, so I think what there saying is each cree led is 5watts but due to the inbuilt driver it will consume 8watts. Now the only thing I cannot get details of is is it 8watts per led or is the driver overhead a single occurrence per bulb. If its 8watts per led then the bulb could use upto 80watts of power, which is a bit scary.

I guess the only way to know for sure would be to measure the current draw and do the maths to calculate the wattage.

Either way the power consumption and wattage will be far higher than a standard 21watt incandescent bulb.

the wattages do seem to be confusing indeed..

i found this,

Watts per LED:
It can be confusing when two watt numbers are used in product specifications. For the application to smd high powered LEDs, the 1 watt, 3 watt, 5 watt, etc, refers to the power consumption of that specific LED installed in that product. The watt numbers expressed as light output are a comparison to an incandescent light bulb light output, e.g.; a 60 watt light output is equal to a 60 watt incandescent light bulb. The Watt Output is equipment measured.


which makes me think that the claimed '5 watt' cree isnt actually that but is an equivalent to a 5 watt light output and not its wattage consumption....

another point that makes me think the actual wattage consumption is less than the OE bulb is the slightly more rapid flash..

now i might be barking up the wrong tree and its frustrating not being able to find a definitive answer .. ... - .- -.




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Stan,

The stuff you found about wattage is for direct comparison to household incandescent bulbs. This was created to assist people in selecting suitable replacement energy saving bulbs, and was first used to assist with CFL bulbs and now for leds household bulbs.

Light output in bulbs is measured in lumen, but as most people would not have a clue how bright this is the bulb manufacturers added a wattage description equivalent, this is because most people will understand for example how bright a 60watt incandescent household bulb would be but if you quoted its lumen output they would be clueless.

For an led example lets take a GU10 50watt halogen spot light bulb. A typical led replacement will be a bulb of approx 5 to 8watts, so to assist people with understanding how bright the led bulb is they include with the bulb its rough incandescent equivalent light output in watt terms, ie 50watts 30watts etc. So the led bulb would typically be for example 7watts and sold to replace a 30 to 50watt halogen spot light bulb.

In terms of car bulbs all the above is really not valid, and as the manufacturers of the led replacement bulbs are predominantly based in China there documentation is a bit shady. Also they do not have any requirements to display packaging that gives incandescent replacement equivalent outputs.

Then we get onto the drivers integrated into the actual bulb to make the leds function correctly. This is were there will be an overhead, but again I doubt very much that any documentation supplied with the typical Chinese led bulbs will be accurate. I did find a link below for a cree led which is most likley the same spec as used in the majority of bulbs being described as using 5watt cree leds. This bulb actually has a maximum wattage of 4.9watts, but this is without the extra electronics of the driver.

The driver side of things is where things get muddled. I doubt we are getting accurate info in terms of the driver overhead. So to be honest the only accurate way to know the true current draw and wattage would be to measure it. But one thing we can take for granted is that the driver will not decrease the wattage, it will only increase it, and in some cases poor driver electronics can increase the wattage substantially.

But one thing is for certain, wattage is calculated by multiplying voltage times current, this is fixed and does not alter. So if you measure the current draw of the bulb at its maximum by inserting a meter into the circuit and multiply it by the actual voltage then you will get a true wattage for the complete bulb including leds and drivers.

So the bulbs both you and Ryan have bought are replacing a 21watt incandescent bulb. They are advertised as using 5watt cree leds, this much we know for sure. From this we only need to multiply the amount of cree leds in use to give us the minimum wattage. So for Ryan the minimum wattage is 30 watts as the indicator led bulbs he bought contain 6 cree leds, the unknown bit is how much more the drivers take. In your case Stan the minimum wattage is 50 watts as your bulbs contain 10 cree 5watt leds.

As to the bulbs flashing slightly quicker I am not sure on this one, I don't know enough about the cars circuitry. Also as the current draw is not constant being only used to indicate and flashing the current draw should not be an issue for the wiring but I still have my reservations regarding the 50watt bulbs current draw on the rest of the cars indicator circuitry. But the main thing is they are working, and they are brighter so hopefully all is good.

http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Mod.../XLamp-XPG

Also just ordered 2 of these bulbs (£6.99 delivered) from the same supplier as was used to buy the main LED indicator bulbs:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...OC:GB:3160

@Prop, i agree with what you say and tbh and i cant see great problem having a 50w cree instead of a 21w OE bulb as according to my crees specs ,they only draw a max of 400 mA which the ranges wiring will handle . i've looked but i cant find what current the OE 21w bulbs draw which would be a interesting comparison......

my cree specs,

Click image to enlarge

‘Amber’ LED side repeaters arrived from same eBay seller as the one who supplied me with 6 x main indicator LED bulbs (2 bought as spares).

Excellent seller both before and after sales; and they appear to be good quality bulbs that they sell too.

The side repeaters very well compliment/ are the same colour and of a brightness appropriate to the main indicator LED bulbs giving a uniform OE look but with better performance than non LED; and if changing any indicator bulbs to LED, imo, leaving the side repeaters as standard orange bulbs stands out like a sore thumb and does not look right against what is in fact a yellow LED glow from main and side repeaters.

Seller was hanzi214 on eBay and these are the main and side repeater LED bulbs I refer to:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-30w-Bau15s-58...8116858328

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...60[/quote]

A little confused.

Asked HQ autolighting which LED would be suitable for tail/ stop lamp and they've sent me a link containing 4 different bulbs including links for red, crisp white and also one for a resistor (HQ supplied the sidelights that are on the front of the car which 10-SMD 5630 bulbs).


http://stores.ebay.co.uk/HQ-Auto-Lighting/...&_ipg=

Last edited by pld118 on 23rd Dec 2013 5:20pm. Edited 2 times in total

rear brake light is led so you cant change that, and there are 2 bulbs for the red tail and fog..

one dual filament is for the fog/tail the other dual filament is just for the tail with the 21w bit being redundant..


from the manual,

''The lower lamp aperture is divided into two parts and provides for the tail lamp and the rear fog lamp.
The rear fog lamp uses different bulbs depending on model. On 4.4L V8 models the rear fog lamp uses a P21W bayonet fitting bulb. On 4.2L V8 supercharged models the rear fog lamp uses a PR21W. This is also used for the tail lamp, operated by a PWM output from the LCM to produce a lower wattage output than the fog lamp.
The upper half of the tail lamp aperture is used solely for the tail lamp and uses a P21W/5W bulb on 4.4L V8 models and a PR21/5W bulb on 4.2L V8 supercharged models. Only the 5W filament is used for the tail lamp, with the 21W filament not used by any function.'' ... - .- -.




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