verydisco wrote:

Mark C
either you check on Topix, possibly even the owner's manual prior to ordering the oils or when filling, you fill up until it goes out the filling hole.

Not strictly true J... You need to check capacities on "Topix" as some take an amount rather than fill to top

I couldn't find the exact amount that they take. I was just going to measure exactly how much comes out and put the same amount back In. Range Rover Vogue 2006 4.4 AJV8 | Buckingham Blue | Parchment Leather | Supercharged Grill+Side Vents | CA02 HEY ( NOT 02 PLATE )

Where my Defenders spend long durations on motorways the rear axle gets hot and then cold at night the condensation water in my oil is horrid, every 24thou milky soup taken out. If everything is under control you are not going fast enough.

MY 16 Discovery 4 Commercial Workshop and Escort Vehicle
MY 12 Full Fat TDV8
1952 Series 1 80" 3ltr 6cyl

Did my front and rear ages ago not long after I started with it so before 130k and now on 150k and it was horrid stuff! Ended up at the local recycling place. Hate to think where it all ends up... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Sorry if I've missed this but I read reference to someone saying it's easier to do this on a ramp, as you might expect. If DIY though, is access to the front and rear diffs easy and safe enough to do this job with the car just on axle stands?

One other daft question... I know Craig said no need to warm the diff oil up before removal but how would you warm it up anyway?

Thanks

you could possibly do this in off road height with the correct precautions but i'm sure someone [craig?] said that the FF has to be level so one end on axle stands wont work..
i should think a short journey will warm up the oil.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

A short drive of say 10-15mins should get some heat into them or just use a blow torch to gently heat them up. Then just use an ice cube on each of the nuts to cool them more than the rest of the diff and this can help removal of stubborn ones 😊 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Stan is right, a drive will warm up the diffs

Yes the job could be done on axle stands but the car does not need to be level (as your diff takes a quantity of oil, not to a level)

my bad re the 'level' suggestion.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

kingpleb wrote:

just use a blow torch to gently heat them up.

imho theres far too much rubber, gaskets, seals, gaters & alike around there to suggest a novice takes to it with a "blowtorch" Will!

Sorry but just my opinion sir

Like anything blowtorch related, it takes care and not a gung Ho clarkson style approach

It only needs a little bit of warmth to make the oil thinner, especially in this weather but if you don't feel 100% that you can contain your inner fire starter best to use the short drive method 😄😄👍👍 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Any idea what the difference in quantity of oil is between the set amount they're meant to take and the filler point...?
I ask as we filled mine to the filler plug level when we changed it last month...

DIY'ers

Drain it into a container and put back in the correct amount

Must be important otherwise JLR would just tell you to fill to drain level

Craig

would appreciate your thoughts on fluid changes generally
my MY11 is only 4 yrs old now. around 30k mileage.
Would you recommend changing diff oil now?

other oils...

transfer box oil
axle oil
transmission / gearbox oil

LR say these should be done either at 5 years (diff and transfer) or 9 / 10 years (axle and transmission)
speak to a few LR garages however and they say transmissions are sealed units - you dont change the oil in them

is it worth while next year, when car may have 40K miles to change the whole lot ?
money not an issue - but will i be achieving anything?
or should i just change the transfer box and diff oils?

happy chrimbo !