Take it to the dump for recycling. Alternatively......

Well, I set about preparing to change ours today and realised that for this job on our SC, the inverted Hex socket seemed no use because my rear Diff has an inverted Torx design for the filler plug (not sure of the size) and a 3/8 size (I think) inverted square/ traditional socket set shape drain plug (both of ours pictured).

ETM rear diff drain plug (shape):

Click image to enlarge

where's the oil residue from ryan? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

WD40 Stan... The residue/ deposits are only the results of my prep for when I eventually buy the correct tools to undo the plugs!

Filler plug - My early evening trip to the Toolstation has since resulted in my acquisition of this inverted star bit set/ torx sockets for £16.22 ! So hopefully that should sort the filler plug aspect:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p39020


Drain plug - I'm additionally hoping my ancient 3/8 square socket set driver will do the job of releasing and then re-torquing the inverted square drain plug!

ps... I even spoke by phone with Dan @ Duckworths in the hope he could lock on to new drain and filler plugs with a view to being able to tell me the type and sizes of tools required for our particular ETM rear diff plugs but as the item is not stock, he couldn't assist on this little point.

Touch wood... Tomorrow...

This is also a useful set to have

http://m.screwfix.com/pr-gallery.htm?id=63378#imggal1 There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Done it! Rear Diff oil changed today, by me

1.5L oil came out and, as per the workshop manuals, 1.5L of oil was put back in.

The outgoing oil had no debris in it but was a thick dark brown colour, compared to the light golden colour of the oil purchased from Duckworth's parts Dept. I suspect it had never been changed before.

did the syringe do the job then ? did you take the car a run first to heat the oil ? Range Rover Vogue 2006 4.4 AJV8 | Buckingham Blue | Parchment Leather | Supercharged Grill+Side Vents | CA02 HEY ( NOT 02 PLATE )

This is the tool to help fill both front & rear difs



I have been using the attached Pump, Fluid Transfer system on all my range rovers and discovery's for a few year now. Its the best way to get the fluid in -and really easy.

REMEMBER - ALWAYS UNDO THE FILL CAP FIRST - leave the drain fill cap last - that way if the infill is ceased, you will not have lost all the fluid and no way of filling it back up.

I have always put in the correct amount per application / diff and the pump pictured pushing in the whole amount without and loss

Hope this helps

Snap on part ( Pump, Fluid Transfer - FLUIDPUMP £19.90 excl. VAT) £23.88 (incl. VAT)

pld118 wrote:

Done it! Rear Diff oil changed today, by me

1.5L oil came out and, as per the workshop manuals, 1.5L of oil was put back in.

The outgoing oil had no debris in it but was a thick dark brown colour, compared to the light golden colour of the oil purchased from Duckworth's parts Dept. I suspect it had never been changed before.

How much debris was on the magnet? The DARK BROWN colour is rust

Craig, the magnetic part of the drain plug (both filler and drain plug faces actually were/ seemed) surprisingly clean, although the threads needed a clean.

The outgoing oil had no debris in it but seemed thicker than the new oil and was the darkest of glossy brown. There was a putrid, sickly gassy smell when I opened the filler plug too.

After opening the drain plug I left it unattended for about half an hour to try and let the last drip of the old oil fall into the drip tray.

Mark,

I raised the car in the garage last night in prep for the oil change this morning and so the oil was 'cold' when I drained it, although the garage has central heating (don't know if that helps). In truth and as Cam Tech Craig previously intimated, the oil isn't so thick and isn't difficult to drain. After removing the drain plug, I left it to drain unattended for about half an hour.

The tools I used to do this job - exactly as per the LR workshop manual - on the electronic (ETM) rear diff on a 4.2SC were:

A. Safety first - a flat/ level concrete floor, 2 axles stands, a Mercedes Sprinter bottle jack, the RR jack, all wheels chocked and the car set to off road height with the driver's door left open (all to stabilise the car. I actually spent a lot of time making sure the car was near bomb proof stable before getting under it to tackle this job. It will be easy next time though as I'm now confident of a 'safe' method to get underneath the car. No apology for dithering on this particular issue

B. WD-40 - to spray on the drain and filler plugs before trying to loosen the plugs.

C. To undo and tighten the rear diff filler plug - a T50 size star/ torx socket (make sure the filler plug comes out before contemplating undoing the drain plug and if the filler plug won't come out, then don't go near the drain plug).

D. To undo and tighten/ re torque the rear diff drain plug - an 8mm square socket driver.

E. A simple, DIY standard plastic drip tray to catch the 1.5 litres of drained rear diff oil.

D. Wire wool and WD-40/ Brake cleaner (to clean the removed plugs and mating faces before re torquing them at the end of the job); and copper grease on the plugs before re torquing them to prevent their future seizure.

F. A 0.30 litre oil extraction pump/ plastic syringe (I think only an occasional DIYer would put up with this syringe although I found it clean and easy to do draw oil up from the new diff oil bottle at 0.20 litres of oil at a time and I repeated this process x 7, the final amount being 0.10 litre = 1.5 litres of fresh new oil back into the rear diff with no problems at all with this method. In fact the plastic syringe and 'extension hose' performed excellently for a tenner and will be perfectly good for future DIY use).

G. 1.5 litres of LR approved fully synthetic rear diff oil (I had to buy 2 litres/ paid Duckworth's LR £48 incl VAT for 2 litres plus £5 for delivery and an excellent service it was too!)

Here are pictures of the key 'ingredient' tools I used and all without a drop of oil spilt... ps... glad to have done this job myself because it's satisfying as you know it has been done! With the the correct tools and prep, it can also be straightforward


C & D. T50 star/ torx socket & 8mm square socket driver:

pld118 wrote:

Craig, the magnetic part of the drain plug (both filler and drain plug faces actually were/ seemed) surprisingly clean, although the threads needed a clean.

The outgoing oil had no debris in it but seemed thicker than the new oil and was the darkest of glossy brown. There was a putrid, sickly gassy smell when I opened the filler plug too.

After opening the drain plug I left it unattended for about half an hour to try and let the last drip of the old oil fall into the drip tray.

Its amazing how the rear diff oil degrades isn't it

The colour will be down to the internals of your diff rusting due to water ingress (i suspect condensation) then its only a matter of time before A, the bearings give up! and the rust makes the driveshaft seals blow!

Good job you caught it when you did sir

nice one Ryan, hopefully my stuff will arrive tomorrow.

Craig i sent you a pm with a few questions just wondering if you got it through ?

cheers Range Rover Vogue 2006 4.4 AJV8 | Buckingham Blue | Parchment Leather | Supercharged Grill+Side Vents | CA02 HEY ( NOT 02 PLATE )

I did Mark yes but its A, my weekend off sir & B, been a dreadful weekend (personal) so NO SIR i have not & don't intend answering until the morning sir

Hopefully you will understand

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

... The colour will be down to the internals of your diff rusting due to water ingress (i suspect condensation) then its only a matter of time before A, the bearings give up! and the rust makes the driveshaft seals blow!