🤔...

Nice video.

Of the fields you have I have found the following ones are not always reliable and may be misleading.
Incomplete Regen Status
Number of partial successful regens
Number of successful regens

the rest is great but it is best to rely on the Demanded Regens field which always works and couple it with some heat sensors so you can see the regen happening.

Agree with you, find someone who could make a complete demonstration about it🧞‍♂️

Only a few months into ffrr ownership, but read this thread with interest. I have a Kubota tractor and that has a display telling me what percentage full the DPF is at any time. I wonder why this isn’t a system generated message on the dash? Or is that what the DPF full message replicates. If that was set to a percentage, like my tractor, managing the regeneration process would be a lot easier.

Re: the percentage on the dash, absolutely agreed.
The DPF full warning signs serve to simplify it:
19.6g Regen Demanded
23.3g Amber Warning On
27.5g Red Warning On

So "Working", "Needs a Fast Run", "Broken".

Some of the reasons for not having a more comprehensive readout, as I understand it are the DPF fill rate is extremely variable from car to car and it was a bit of a dirty fix at the time when DPF technology was all new. Also the fill rate on each specific car is inconsistent which is going to bother people if they know too much... It works well in most cars, no reason to bother people with it...

Having been tied in knots myself by well intentioned but ultimately misleading advice, I can honestly say I reckon the design is a good one for a top end car... especially one with such variation in performance!


.

Last edited by Range Rover L322 on 1st Jan 2022 4:27pm. Edited 1 time in total

Fairly new to RR (2012 L322 4.4 TDV8 with 51k miles) and GAP IID tool. Had Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor replaced a few weeks back. Started to view and monitor soot levels and this is what I’ve seen

Pre Xmas soot level was reading 15g. Took it out for a run yesterday afternoon. Mix of dual carriageways and B roads. Covered about 80m. When I got home plugged in IID and soot levels read 17.7g. Never had a yellow light, but thought it best to give it another run to see if it would regen. Left IID plugged in and set off.

7 miles of B roads and 26 of dual carriageways at 50 mph +. Watched soot reading increase to 20g. Thought it would go into regen before that, but shortly after, soot levels started to decline down to 10.2g when I ran out of dual carriageway and joined M4. Had hoped regen would continue, but it stopped. Drove for another 27 miles to get back home. On arrival soot levels had risen to 13.2. Soot levels seem to be rising at a rate of about 0.09g average per mile on my last run.

I suspect my joining M4 at roundabout and having to stop fooled the ECU that regen was over, although others on this thread have suggested regen can continue in similar circumstances. Just before the low of 10.2g, the reduction rate had slowed considerably. I’ll do another run when soot reading is higher.

Questions - why might it have taken a soot reading of 20g to begin regen given my 50+ speed? - do those in the know think my soot levels after regen are rising too quickly?

0g to 20g at a rate of 0.09g per mile would suggest a regen range of around 223miles. I read from the earlier workshop manual post that there was a mileage backstop in the ECU of 250.

Car drives lovely, never had yellow regen light. Maybe it is what it is!

Unplug your IID and don't monitor it. Its working OK and you'll drive yourself nuts watching soot levels. No warning lights =  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Interesting reading on DPF's.

Where and what version of IID should I buy to monitor and check? I have looked online under IID or OBD2 and loads of versions nothing saying about soot monitoring.


I have only had my RR since April ( 2011 TDV8 4.4 Autobiography ) and love it but sadly kept putting of a motor way drive when the yellow DPF light came up and now I have the red one. My local garage tried to reset it twice and told me to go for a drive and see if it made a difference but still limp mode, can still get to 70 but can make a cuppa whilst it takes its time getting there.

I feel I may have to bite the bullet and go to the dealer as I have now suffered for 3 weeks with this and need it sorted so hoping that Peterborough Dealers aren't to expensive to reset / clean the filters and not my wallet!! Unless anyone knows another local garage I could go to that would do this?

Yet another excuse for my wife to say why we should stick to her ford Bmax 1.6 Diesel instead of the much safer more comfortable luxurious RR. Really hope I cant get this sorted without to much expenditure.

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AndesinWales, ... I completely agree with Dr Rob. There's such variation in these cars as well as soot fluctuation.
I have been watching mine for 2.5 years and 8000 miles and have only just got it completely sorted.
If you don't have a yellow it's not worth looking for a problem.

All the best and Happy New Year.

Last edited by Range Rover L322 on 29th Dec 2021 11:47pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hi John W.,

I use an IIDTool with Bluetooth, as do most people on here. Getting into that is an investment in both money and time to understand it.

As soon as you get a Yellow DPF Warning you should really go for a drive at faster than 37mph for approx 15 mins+

If your local garage resetting the Red DPF warning did not get you out of limp it suggests there may be a bigger issue (dont worry mostly not too expensive!).

If there is a bigger issue somewhere, the DPF is the receptacle, but not the cause (DPFs are very rarely faulty). Your car is most likely producing too much soot and effectively overloading the DPF - it is probably a leak somewhere in your induction system, or possibly just a MAF/MAP sensor sooted up. Induction Leaks account for most of the issues, next is because the car is used for very short journeys, after that we get a few peculiar things like sensor or turbo issues and it all gets a bit fruity.

A high pressure smoke test is the starting point to find the leak. This should be your local garages next move if the Red reset does not work. I recommend finding a garage who knows the score, it is a bit specialised for a lot of them.

Good luck and keep us updated. You will get sorted.



.

Last edited by Range Rover L322 on 29th Dec 2021 11:42pm. Edited 1 time in total

JohnW wrote:

Interesting reading on DPF's.

Where and what version of IID should I buy to monitor and check? I have looked online under IID or OBD2 and loads of versions nothing saying about soot monitoring.


I have only had my RR since April ( 2011 TDV8 4.4 Autobiography ) and love it but sadly kept putting of a motor way drive when the yellow DPF light came up and now I have the red one. My local garage tried to reset it twice and told me to go for a drive and see if it made a difference but still limp mode, can still get to 70 but can make a cuppa whilst it takes its time getting there.

I feel I may have to bite the bullet and go to the dealer as I have now suffered for 3 weeks with this and need it sorted so hoping that Peterborough Dealers aren't to expensive to reset / clean the filters and not my wallet!! Unless anyone knows another local garage I could go to that would do this?

Yet another excuse for my wife to say why we should stick to her ford Bmax 1.6 Diesel instead of the much safer more comfortable luxurious RR. Really hope I cant get this sorted without to much expenditure.

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johnboyairey,

That's great you cleared it.
Quick tip - if you pop it in Sport "S" it will stick in whichever gear you want for as long as you want.

I wondered that... had a lot to think about on that long limp journey, and didn't want to tempt fate! didn't even have the radio on, in case I didn't hear a 'noise'!

Range Rover L322 wrote:

If your local garage resetting the Red DPF warning did not get you out of limp it suggests there may be a bigger issue (dont worry mostly not too expensive!). because the car is used for very short journeys, after that we get a few peculiar things like sensor or turbo issues and it all gets a bit fruity.

A high pressure smoke test is the starting point to find the leak. This should be your local garages next move if the Red reset does not work. I recommend finding a garage who knows the score, it is a bit specialised for a lot of them.



.

Quick google maps search throws up Avenger 4x4 as the first place I’d go to round Peterborough
Avoid all main dealers unless you like being reamed
As above, it’s highly likely to be an induction leak e.g. the 4 inlet donut hoses can split. Replace with silicone etc. 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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