Did you or the cleaning company reset the DPF in the ECU after the clean. The ECU monitors ash buildup and will trigger an ‘end of DPF life’ warning which is I assume when the pressure differential cannot be reduced sufficiently after a full regeneration. As you are inferring a regular ‘ short evening commute’ it could very well be the normal regeneration is not happening and thus the amber warning. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

It was working properly by looks of it. We have a saying "if it isn't broke, don't fix"  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Yes, they readout and reset the dpf in the ecu, they use a Bosch OBDII system.

As the pressure differential of my dpf is now back to new (5mbar) I assume / hope my ecu will never reach this end-of-life status as long as I keep having the dpf cleaned.

What makes me wonder (I'm not saying I'm worried yet) is why the dpf had more ash buildup after less mileage, 3 times more.

The cleaning costs Euro 600,-
Using an average diesel price of Euro 1,85 and an average consumption of 1:10 during the next 80.000km the average consumption needs to improve to 1:10,5 to pay for the cleaning.
That's possible I would say, even more so when (not if... ) the diesel price goes up again.

I see dpf cleaning as just another thing to do as regular (well... every 4 years) maintenance on this TDV8.
I'm hoping to drive this car for a while longer.

Do newer diesels with this AddBlue injection have less ash build up?
Does the AddBlue help in cleaning the dpf, if those cars have a dpf? 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

DrRob wrote:

It was working properly by looks of it. We have a saying "if it isn't broke, don't fix"

Ok, I'll bite

In principle the dpf will fill up with ash over time, no matter how you look at it.
The ash will not be removed by any regeneration process.
So at some point it will be full.
Then what?
Would you say it's broken?
You're gonna buy a complete new exhaust?
Is your oil filter broken when it's exchanged when the ECU tells you to?

 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

Ash build-up is a given and ultimately governs the life of the DPF before replacement or cleaning. Mostly the DPF will go big miles /km before this happens unless you are using the wrong oil. If you think your issue is ash build-up and it needs another clean then I would suggest either the previous cleaning process was not effective or it's not an ash build-up issue. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Fair point on the ash
Lots of places in the UK can DPF and EGR delete  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
New Defender D300 90 on order so "Rory" will be going to a new home....!
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

JayGee wrote:

Ash build-up is a given and ultimately governs the life of the DPF before replacement or cleaning. Mostly the DPF will go big miles /km before this happens unless you are using the wrong oil. If you think your issue is ash build-up and it needs another clean then I would suggest either the previous cleaning process was not effective or it's not an ash build-up issue.

The LR workshop just states different voltages for different RPM's on the differential pressure sensor and not an actual pressure. Even a brand new DPF will throw up warning lights if you do a lot of short trips that don't allow a full regen. Doubt it's anything to do with the air filters ( although I wouldn't use them as the filtration is poor) and you have obviously looked after it with oil changes of the correct type of oil. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Could you check your LR workshop manual?
Exhaust System - TDV8 4.4L Diesel - Diesel Particulate Filter
Diagnosis and Testing
Scroll down to:
PINPOINT TEST B : RED WARNING MESSAGE DPF FULL VISIT DEALER IS DISPLAYED AND DTC P2463-00 IS
LOGGED
and
B7: SOOT ESTIMATOR IS ACCURATE AND THE DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE SENSOR READING IS WORKING CORRECTLY
There it's given that Note: 1volt = 100mbar, 1.5volts = 300mbar at 4000RPM

This I'm going to check with my OBDII software tomorrow, if I can see that sensor value.
I've seen the voltage on the IIDTool images in this post.
Maybe this is common knowledge.
To be honest I would trust the differential pressure sensor the most when it comes to determine how much the dpf is blocked, the soot calculation can't be more than a calculation based on other inputs, there is no actual soot sensor.
Going by the note I should see very low sensor values.
I will report back. 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

Short update: no pressure differential sensor value, unfortunately.
Out of a long list of values available to monitor for a 2012 L322 via the Scan XL software none of them have any relation to dpf sensors.
During the weekend I drove about 900 km and I've noticed fuel consumption is lower then before.

So cleaning the dpf is a 80/100k km thing for me now.
 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000

This is truly an encyclopedia for DPF's, thanks for all the information.

I've gotten an amber "DPF full warning" twice the last couple of months, no significant changes in driving pattern and this is the first time I have reveived warnings. I have monitored the regen with the IID and it seems like its's working normally.

The last time I got the DPF full warning I checked fault codes and found the following:

- P244B-68, DIesel particulate filter differential pressure too high - Algorithm based failure, triggered two days before warning

-P2459-65 DPF regeneration frequency - Algorithm based failure - signal has too few transitions, triggered at the same time as the warning

- U405-68 Invalid data recieved from speed control module, I don't think this is related

I checked voltage readings on the DPF pressure sensor and got the following results:
- Engine off -> 0,8 v
- Idle -> 0,82 v
- 4000 rpm -> 1,48 V

The readings were taken right after a regen with a soot mass of 3,93 g and is higher than the limits in the workshop manual. I also noticed the reading was fluctuating with the engine off, could it be a signal of a bad sensor(see atached image)?

I monitored the soot on my last trip and I am a bit worried about the rate of buildup. I started with 13,3 g soot, after 28,5 highway miles it was 18,5 g (5,5 miles / g soot) and the car started regenerating sucsessfully down to 2,84 g. After 8,7 miles of driving the soot was back up to 8,3 g (1,6 miles / g soot!).

So far I have 239 demanded and 68 succesful regens at 95 000 miles, but I think these numbers will climbe quickly at this rate.

Does this sound like a normal rate of soot buildup? I have updated silicone hoses (intake donut) and no signs of leaks, but I am a bit sceptical about the intake elbow (trying to find a locale garage who can performe a high pressure smoke test, but no luck yet).

Any advise for the first course of action? I guess the readings from the pressure sensor points to either a sensor or DPF issue?

 2012 Range Rover TDV8 4.4

Just a quick question re the dpf pressure sensor , if you unplug it does it need recalibrating after you plug it back in ?

"Just a quick question re the dpf pressure sensor , if you unplug it does it need recalibrating after you plug it back in ?"

No. The reading is inferred by the pressure before and after, not actually measured. 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8 AB low mileage - a peach
1986 V8 Defender 90 County ex-Swiss Army - Red everything....

My preferred Independent: Roy Hardy. R & B AUTOS LTD, 20 Brook Road, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 2BH (Ex LR Chief Technician)

AdrianL322 wrote:

So far I have 239 demanded and 68 succesful regens at 95 000 miles, but I think these numbers will climbe quickly at this rate.

Morning all,
Newbie member here, with a question.

Having done some reading on here I want to share my current situation.

I have a 2012 RR L322 4.4tdv8 with 70k miles on the clock.
I have owned the car for about 4 years. It has been great and used thoroughly. I have maintained it well with regular oil changes using correct oil etc...

I have had one or two yellow DPF warnings over my ownership that were all cleared out after a good regen run that seems to work well.

Now here is the problem, I will admit that recently I have not managed to get round to doing an oil change for a while, nothing super long but more tie has passed than I would have left it normally.
The car has also not managed to be taken on a very long run.
I went down the road (5mins) to the shops the other day and on my way back the car suddenly gave me the red DPF warning and went into limp mode.
Now yellow warning, just straight to red.

I have ordered my gap iid tool in order to facilitate the forced regen and will also check all my intercooler pipes before going ahead with the regen.

Before this there were no issues, maybe battery is a little old but apart from that no other signs of issues. no smoke under hard acceleration, nothing to speak of.

My main question is, once I have checked all intercooler connections for splits/cracks/issues and I go out for my forced regen. Has anyone used DPF in a can cleaner before hand? Or is it not advised?

Hope that makes sense.
Luke