Forget DPF cleaners and just force a regen with the GAP tool. Also do an oil change without delay. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Thanks, okay will forget the dpf cleaner in a can.

Check hoses,
Oil change and filter change,
reset sevice indicator
then forced DPF regen

thanks

hi Luke sudden Red DPF warning usually mean a boost leak. Donut hoses, throttle body seal are typical culprits. Once you find the leak you can do a forced regen Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Quote:

hi Luke sudden Red DPF warning usually mean a boost leak. Donut hoses, throttle body seal are typical culprits. Once you find the leak you can do a forced regen

Here is an old post from 2 years ago which will give you some background and a crash course on DPFs!

Range Rover L322 wrote:

There are a lot of factors and behaviour varies. I have spent 3 years monitoring it and getting a handle on it.

Dr Rob's advice is good. If no Yellow warning light then leave it.

If you really want to figure it out, add the "Number of Demanded Regens" field (not "Successful Regens") which is not robust data. Then graph your mileage per regen, or at least get a handle on it.

Avoid, like the plague, people who tell you something is wrong with your car. They are usually basing their conclusion on their own cars and driving habits. The variation is massive. I have spent time on this with a) a LR Chief Tech of 20 years. b) One of the UKs best Diesel 4x4 modification specialists c) Some of the original L322 design team.

The long and short of it is DPF technology was new when they started producing this "environmentally friendly" solution. It is a bit of a bodge, exacerbated by the EGR and sequential turbos. Modding a 4.4, EGR delete and DPF removal is a bad idea. I personally think re-maps are a bad idea too but I fully accept there is some wiggle room there.

We had the engine out last year too. Basically a full rebuild because of this problem. My MPG on the dash is 22mpg local driving and 32 motorway but when I brim the tank it and calculate it manually the average it is always 20-22mpg irrespective of type of driving.

Excessive regens will not adversely affect your fuel economy - it is only an cupful of fuel that gets dumped into the DPF for a burn. How do I know this? I had excessive regens previously. My MPG was constant before and after. I had a full DPF clean too, it made no difference whatsoever. Terraclean? nothing - you may as well tap dance in sequinned hotpants and rollerblades for all the difference it makes... I had every injector off and sent back to Bosch. Turbos apart... I'll post a full list at the bottom.

I am fairly certain I am the only person here who has ever replaced a DPF and Cat on an L322 with new. My AB was ultra low mileage (40k now) from the Isle of Man and a peach.... except I discovered it had been driven through a deep salt water ford then left to stand, damaging the DPF and Cat from the inside. This caused me to do massive analyses, all the while being wrong-footed by well intentioned (but ultimately wrong) people who based their conclusions on their own cars and driving habits. I also know a DPF almost never breaks. The DPF itself is just a ceramic gauze and DPF issues are a symptom of another problem. We also identified another suspected issue. If that's not all crazy enough for you here's where it goes into another layer of Inception... in 2011-2012 it is "known" there were a number of substandard batches of steel sent to Ford from China, which we suspect my DPF and Cat were made from. - the 4x4 modification guru mentioned above knows and has experienced greater corrosion on some Ford sourced parts for around that time than should reasonably be expected.

However, with this damaged DPF my car would run ok most of the time as long I was not in heavy traffic. It would regen at any speed. The algorythm works so the frequency of regen increases. I have had the original design brief explained.

Your car sounds fine. Start graphing it if you really want to get a handle on it....

High Pressure Smoke Test
New inlet manifold near side rear corner.
Factory Turbo Drain Mod.
New nearside outlet manifold.
Exhaust Clamp.
Induction system smoke tested.
Injectors checked.
DPF checked with borescope.
Turbos checked with borescope.
EGR removed, cleaned and replaced.
New EGR sensor.
ECU software updated.
Exhaust crack welded.
MAF sensor replaced (old ones still for sale on ebay!)
MAP sensor replaced.
Removed all covers.
Cut & clean DPF (x2).
210 litres of cleaning fluid - the most they have ever used on any car, ever.
Removed engine & gearbox.
Stripped engine to allow access to find air leak.
Sent injectors for testing.
Injectors refurbished.
New Catalytic Converter.
New DPF.
New exhaust manifolds.

It's helping some owners - EGR Blanking plate and remap etc

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic69435.html

Thank you all, I will report back and let you know how I get on.
On initial inspection I cannot find any cracked hoses or signs of leaks from the intercooler circuit.

I will keep investigating and get the iiDTool up and running when it arrives.

Well, good news. Oil change, service reset and forced regen did the trick.

I took checked for signs of leaks in the intercooler circuit, removed the donut and checked the 4 rubbers. everything looked fine under close examination. No signs of residue leak anywhere.

Soot level was 31.8g when I set off and after about 30/40 minutes was down to 2.8g until I ran out of traffic and then cleared all codes and back to normal.

Only other remaining fault is attached.

Not sure attachment worked, only remaining fault is,

P040D-00 (2f) Exhaust gas recirculation temperature sensor A - Circuit high

OK sounds promising, fingers crossed. Some thoughts and pointers, bear with me:

1) The value on the IIDTool "Number of successful regenerations" is neither robust nor accurate. "Number of demanded regenerations" is reliable.
2) The oil dilution figure on the IIDTool is calculated, not measured. i.e. the value shown is a product of the number of regens completed or requested (we don't know which), however it is not a good value.
3) The oil change you performed, while being good practice, will not affect or influence the overall issue you are having.
4) I dont know about the EGR recirc value being high. I can point you in the direction of someone who can!..
5) I would drive it a lot now and see how you get on. It's the only way to really know if it is fixed.
6) Watch your soot levels and regens live, getting a handle on the regen frequency of your car will help you. (DPFs do not all perform the same, similarly the regen demand frequency is not a straight line).
7) Forced regens should be performed as little as possible and only when really necessary as a last resort. Pat at IID didn't release this function on for years in case people relied on it. There is potential collatoral damage to the ceramic gauze in the DPF.

FYI my thoughts are the result of 5 years of talking to some very experienced LR mechanics and the original L322 design team. I and some of my friends gave up on this forum a few years ago when know-alls started arguing. Hopefully it is back on track here now with nice and helpful people. Life's too short to argue or try to one-up strangers online...

Cheers,

Matt 2012 L322 4.4 TDV8 AB low mileage - a peach
1986 V8 Defender 90 County ex-Swiss Army - Red everything....

My preferred Independent: Roy Hardy. R & B AUTOS LTD, 20 Brook Road, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 2BH (Ex LR Chief Technician)

Question(s) for Range Rover L322: do you know the pressure differential pressure sensor reading for a (your) new DPF?
If so, do you know the relation between sensor reading and pressure differential in mbar?
I've had my dpf cleaned twice in 238000km and the workshop measured the clean pressure differential to be 5 mbar.
Reading how the ECM has to learn new sensor values (even when the tubes are changed) I understand a 1:1 comparison between sensor values is not accurate, it may give an idea though. 2012 4.4TDV8
2000 Honda S2000