I thought the same until I had the fault code written out, 5K plus miles later it is still running well. Not an ideal solution but if all else fails?

It would be great if there was a fault code Cass.

As far as its concerned all is OK. Multiple specialists say nothing is wrong. I've tried all the suggestions from the kind contributors on here.

Nothing works.

I sold the first tdv8 and bought another one as a dramatic way to fix the problem but it seems to have followed me to the new car!

My wife pointed out that I've worn the leather where I hold the steering wheel... must be how hard I grip it with anger.

My mistake I thought yours was the same P023 fault mine had.
You certainly get the top spot in the “how unlucky can I be” competition

MarianaWestminster wrote:

It would be great if there was a fault code Cass.

As far as its concerned all is OK. Multiple specialists say nothing is wrong. I've tried all the suggestions from the kind contributors on here.

Nothing works.

I sold the first tdv8 and bought another one as a dramatic way to fix the problem but it seems to have followed me to the new car!

My wife pointed out that I've worn the leather where I hold the steering wheel... must be how hard I grip it with anger.

I thought I'd figured it out last Tuesday. I fitted a pair of new MAF sensors and it drove great until the weekend when I filled up then back to driving crap.

I just put up with it now 🤷‍♂️ until I can afford to move up to an L405.

Fuel tank venting problem or brand of fuel?

I think it was sainsburys fuel so possibly. Will need to fill up today but its never made a difference it the past.

I cant be bothered with it anymore. I drive it to work and back during the week and use my 1982 ford granada at weekends.

Focus on port deactivation swirl flaps if they are permamnently closed or vacuum valve is always open so activate it to close 4 ports out of 8

Normally flaps are open, closed when activated by vacuum. I disconnected vacuum supply (red) pipe to actuators (blue). Vacuum was present at supply when engine was just started but then later was cut with engine still runing at idle, probably off by valve at front of the engine under vacuum pump near aux belts. Small piece of blue nitrile glove showing vacuum present. Blanked it with other bent hose. You could try to drive with pipe disconnected and blanked.

BTW it is 2008 RRS

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

gruodiz, did you notice any difference when driving with the hose disconnected and blocked?

Yes, looks like car pulls better. Going to compare on dyno with and without it.

Thanks.
My brother has a MY08 3.6 RRS that's forever going into limp mode to the extent that he restarts it on the run even going uphill towing his van! I'll pass on your trick to see if that has any effect on his problem.

Did you read transmission and engine codes from your brohers car?
Where’s MarianaWestminster ?

Been reading through this thread from the beginning. The other common denominator is the driver- maybe an exorcist would help

Seriously, I was looking as I noticed that one of the short (intercooler/boost) pipes at the back of the engine going to the manifold on my V8 was very oily, and very occasionally get transient "engine system fault" message so thinkingI might have a leak. Looks like it might be bit of a pig to change, so anyone got any advice? And anyone know what the part number might be (can't find it in my Rimmer bros book (2008 v?
Thanks, Mark Mark
3.6TDV8 HST, Santorini Black
Yam 350 Bruin quad, mud coloured