Replaced my rear callipers, discs and pads today and noticed one of the dampers looking a bit weepy. The other side less so.

Is it time to replace these?

Many thanks

Click image to enlarge

Yes
Seals are gone ! They look like the originals; so you have done well ! I can't comment a recommended brand replacement as I'm note sure what is available in UK.

Laurie

Very easy to replace, takes longer to access the three top bolts. My mechanic had them both done in under 20 minutes. Need to tip the rear seats forward to get to the bolts have a read here:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic28287...+absorbers

Just be careful that the axle doesn't drop when you undo the shocks or you'll end up with a torn airbag.

Thanks for all the replies.

I've found that the OE dampers are made by Bilstein (LR part number RPD500760 and Bilstein part 44-124748). Prices seem to vary hugely from supplier to supplier so I'm hunting around for the best deal.

I'm assuming from the pictures that the damper comes with the lower bush does anyone know if that's correct?

Many thanks

Thanks for all the replies. It's quite a low mileage car (60k) but I'm keen to do preventative maintenance as it's coming up to MOT time at the end of the summer.

Good point on supporting suspension arm so the airbag doesn't get stretched. I think my axle stands might be too tall to fit under the arm so will need to figure something out. Maybe lift the car with the trolley jack and put an axle stand underneath then move the trolley jack to go under the suspension arm?

I've read that the OE dampers are made by Bilstein (LR part number RPD500760 and Bilstein part 44-124748). Prices seem to vary hugely from supplier to supplier so I'm hunting around for the best deal.

I'm assuming from the pictures that the damper comes with the lower bush installed does anyone know if that's correct?

Many thanks

Prices vary due to active & non active suspension.

The weep isn’t bad I.e not a MOT failure as they have to be weeping bad enough to either cover the shock body completely or lost enough fluid to effect the performance.

That said if you have deep pockets and can afford to do any maintenance items as soon as the start to show signs of ware and tear then do them.

A good point from ur20v. My 2012 WM had weeping rear dampers from about year three, they were an advisory on the MOT, but not a fail. The dealer advice was to monitor them. They looked similar to yours. They did not really get any worse and were still on the car when it was traded in maybe eighteen months later (and working fine). So maybe get an expert view on MOT prospects (from someone not swayed by a desire to sell the parts or do the work) before replacing. Only Range Rovers since 1988

Thanks all, I'm going to keep an eye on them as it's a few months until MOT and see if they get any worse.

Interesting how the terminology changes with time.
I had no idea what this post was about until I opened it.
It used to be, inner door panel, now its door card
It used to be shock absorbers, now its dampers.
Haha just saying RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar

Land Rover call it a damper in the work shop manual. My understanding is that as this is part of the air suspension system it doesn't work like a traditional shock absorber but in conjunction with the 'Air Spring'.

Here is the extract from the L322 Workshop manual:

Dampers

The rear dampers are unique to New Range Rover and are of a mono-tube design manufactured by Bilstein. The mono-tube design gives the following advantages over conventional twin tube dampers:
l Lightweight construction
l Excellent high frequency response
l Consistent performance – mono-tube design eliminates fluid aeration and emulsification
l Larger diameter piston produces increased fluid displacement for a given damper stroke resulting in more
accurate damping control.
The damper comprises a single tube which forms the operating cylinder. The lower end of the cylinder has an eye which accepts the bush for mounting to the lower wishbone. A piston and rod slides inside the cylinder. The rod emerges from the top of the cylinder which is fitted with a rod guide and a seal.
A dust cover is fitted to the top of the rod and protects the rod from damage. A bump stop is fitted to the top of the piston rod, under the dust cover, and protects the damper from full travel impacts. A top mount is fitted at the top of the piston rod and is secured with a flanged nut. A hardened washer is fitted between the shoulder on the piston rod and the bump washer which is fitted inside the dust cover. When the damper is removed and replaced, care must taken to ensure that the correct hardened washer is refitted in the correct position. The washer prevents the piston rod shoulder causing damage to the bump washer.
The piston is fitted with reed valves which cover a series of holes, through which oil can pass. A chamber at the base of the damper is sealed by a free floating piston. The chamber is filled with inert gas. When the damper is assembled and filled with oil, the gas is in a compressed condition below the piston. On the bump stroke, the downward movement of the piston displaces oil from the full area (bottom) of the cylinder to the cylinder annulus (top). The energy required to pump the oil through the piston drillings and reed valves creates the damping action.
As the piston moves downwards, the volume available on the annulus side of the piston is less than required by the displaced oil from the full area side. When this occurs, the free floating piston moves downwards, further compressing the gas and providing the additional volume for the displaced oil and further enhancing the damping process.

The dampers are located between the lower wishbone and the vehicle body. The lower mounting is fitted with a bush which provides for the attachment to the wishbone with a bolt and nut. The damper top mounting is located in a turret in the body and secured to the body with three nuts. A paper gasket is located between the damper top mounting and the body and prevents the ingress of dirt and moisture into the mounting studs and corresponding holes in the body. It is important that this gasket is discarded and replaced with a new item when the damper is removed.

Air Springs

Each air spring comprises a top plate assembly, an air bag and a base piston. The air bag is attached to the top plate and the piston with a crimped ring. The air bag is made from a flexible rubber material which allows the bag to expand with air pressure and deform under load. The top plate assembly comprises the plastic top plate with a spigot which protrudes through a hole in the subframe. On the side of the top cap is a connector which allows for the attachment of the air hose from the cross-link valve. The piston is made from plastic and is shaped to allow the air bag to roll over its outer diameter. The base of the piston has a splined stud in the centre and an offset timing peg for correct orientation of the air spring into the lower wishbone.
The air springs are located rearward of the dampers and are retained between the subframe and the lower wishbone. The air spring is attached to the lower wishbone with a screw which is fitted from the underside of the wishbone into the splined stud on the base of the piston. The air spring top plate is attached to the subframe via an integral 'D' shaped spigot which is secured with a retaining clip.

Last edited by WB on 26th May 2019 6:05pm. Edited 1 time in total

haha, yes, yes RR 2005 4.4 petrol
Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type 6v 2003, jaguar s-type 8v 2004, Ford Cougar