Unfortunately the air suspension in our cars hides issues with the struts themselves.

They also ‘all mist’ to an extent so you don’t even realise its a problem as it looks ‘normal’ to most!

I replaced my rears as one of mine had failed (replaces in pairs), and intend to replace the fronts at some point as i have 120k on the clock. Some may argue its not needed, but others have also said they get old and worn so need to be replaced after x miles. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Reidsr wrote:

Inspected car ride heights today and the o/s/f is sitting higher than the n/s/f. The rears are both the same height.

Reidsr wrote:

I get its meant to be firm, not bouncy as if your wheel nuts are loose when going over slightly bumpy road in a straight line.

I agree, they must need re calibrated evey so often and i rekon its not the problem.

It must be one of the 4 dampers then. Is there any way of knowing what one it is?

For me, it was obvious when going over speed humps. The rear left bounced more than the right.

To be fair tho, mine was truly

Click image to enlarge

I have rear l322 cvd dampers in the for sale section if anyone is after a set. Bilsteins 1995 4.6 v8, green/tan (long gone)
2005 4.8iS X5, blue/black
2011 4.4 tdv8, black/black (gone)
2003 3.0d X5, Oxford green/black/manual
2021 p575 SVR, BR green/vintage tan

So I'm re-awakening this thread to post my progress on this issue as well as hopefully get more input from you guys...

I've been in contact with a chap through Instagram who has what sounds like the exact same issue I am having.
His is also a 4.4 TDV8, and has the same symptoms as me;

- Harsh, unsettled ride
- Small imperfections in the road transmitted through to the cabin
- Definite improvement felt after leaving the car standing for more than 24hrs, which then gradually returns to 'normal' (horrible ride) after 10-15 minutes driving.
- No suspension related error codes.

The chap I'm talking about is actually a JLR master technician at a dealership... not sure whether that's encouraging or discouraging (seeing as he's not been able to suss it out yet either )

So anyway my plan going forward is thus;


- Fit new height sensors all round.

One of the height sensors on my car failed a few months back, giving an 'Adaptive Dynamics Fault'. I replaced it which cured the code, but the other height sensors must be similarly close to failure. So I'll replace them all to rule them out.

- Fit replacement yaw / long / lat acceleration sensor (ABS)

Something that has bugged me from the start is that error message that popped up in SDD regarding the longitudinal acceleration sensor being out of range (see earlier posts in April 2021 for screen shot).

I performed the long acc calibration routine and the message hasn't re-appeared since, but a used sensor is cheap to rule it out. The RLM and Adaptive Dynamics system uses data from this sensor in its calculation of damper stiffness so it's not entirely impossible that it's affecting it.

Do more damper current measurements

I want to go back into SDD and measure the variable damper solenoid currents again (as it can't be done in IID ) and compare with physical measurements from a current clamp. I did this once before but it was ages ago and I didn't check the front dampers.

Investigate pneumatic system / valves / cross-link valves


If it's not to do with the variable damper system, it surely has to be something to do with the pneumatic part of the suspension system. Could there be some strange/unintended behavior of the compressor, corner valves or crossover valves causing the poor ride? I need to figure out how to check it all but it'll probably involve data logging and checking the actuation of the valves.

Replace front struts

My front struts are genuine items and are dated to some point in 2017, indicating that they've done around 60k miles. You wouldn't think that would be enough to kill them, hence I'm reluctant to replace - but they may be my only route if I get to this point.


ANYWAY, let's see how we get on... any thoughts welcome.

I’m no expert on this by any means, but if both front struts are too hard, I would imagine it’s pretty unlikely they would fail at the same time in the same way? So they must both be getting a signal making them so…. As I say…. Just using logic…. If you go round a right hand bend just the left ones should firm up… I would imagine…. Can you feel any change from cornering to not cornering? If you brake hard does the front dip loads? Is it still level?….

I’m just thinking that if a sensor is faulty and always telling the car it’s cornering for eg… only one side would be over firm?

Just thinking out loud….

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Mine rides so much better on new tyres (7 years old vs new Verde's) 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

mjdronfield wrote:

I’m no expert on this by any means, but if both front struts are too hard, I would imagine it’s pretty unlikely they would fail at the same time in the same way? So they must both be getting a signal making them so…. As I say…. Just using logic…. If you go round a right hand bend just the left ones should firm up… I would imagine…. Can you feel any change from cornering to not cornering? If you brake hard does the front dip loads? Is it still level?….

I’m just thinking that if a sensor is faulty and always telling the car it’s cornering for eg… only one side would be over firm?

Just thinking out loud….

JayGee wrote:

Mine rides so much better on new tyres (7 years old vs new Verde's)

I don’t think communication to the dampers is 2 way…. What’s your thinking on how a faulty one might affect the other? Extra body roll causing sensors to then try and harden dampers more?

I don’t know enough about how it works. Think I’m talking more about body roll than a harsh ride…. Though if the shocks firm up to stop body roll you will get ride affected, but it should then soften for the straights….

Sounds like you have done a fair bit of investigation already. Suppose you can only look and see what inputs the ECU is getting when on a straight flat road… pity you don’t have something to compare readings to.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I meant more that if one damper is acting up / not working as it should be, then it would affect the attitude of the whole vehicle as opposed to just the one corner - it's not always easy to pinpoint which corner is the problem, especially on an electronically suspended and damped vehicle like this.

I think the softening and hardening of the dampers is more delicate than just going hard in corners and softening on the straights - i.e. it should be reacting to suspension inputs from bumps and softening accordingly even during hard cornering.

I have thought about it and researched it a lot over the last 12 months (it's hard not to think about it when driving the thing! ) but I do appreciate the input as it's highly likely I've missed something or made an incorrect assumption somewhere along the line.

Sam

Oddly enough i was thinking about this the other day with the intention of asking how you were getting on, either here or your YouTube channel (love it btw)…

I have the same issues as you, and am eagerly watching your progress in the hope it sheds light on my issue also. Others have stated that wiring is a common issue and the ‘feel’ is that when it breaks things stop working but it doesn’t always log any faults. It has also been suggested that replacing the CVD module in the boot has resolve it for others, and another possibly cheap replacement eBay part. I purchased one in a hope to test this out… but it turns out its from an L320 so wasn’t compatible.

I have two new rear genuine struts, but hitting any bumps front then back both feel hard so dont believe its an old shock issue.

It has been suggested that turning off DCS will force the suspension to remain stiff. When i do this I do not feel a difference, but wonder if this does disable it (model variations perhaps?) but am planning to disconnect ‘something’ on the suspension to cause a VCD fault and seeing if i can THEN feel a difference.
My thinking is… It will highlight if the CVD is actually working or not.

Good luck! And please keep us peeps posted on progress! Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

By God, you will know if it’s not working, suspension goes rock solid. Made me feel sick driving on a relatively smooth dual carriageway…. When I had strut wiring break and Adaptive Dynamics Fault on dash.

Yeah, appreciate my thinking is prob a bit too simplistic…. I have an issue, I think, as I have hardly any body roll at all… all the time….. used to get body roll and ride much less harsh, for years, then just before Christmas it was like flicking a switch… feels more like the Active Cornering Enhancement on Discovery 2. Had 2 new rear shockers as part of MOT and that’s not changed anything. More comfortable when cornering but I feel more road undulations etc.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Feel more road undulations…
That’s the big issue for me. Any road imperfections are transferred into the cabin. I may have 22’s but with 45 profiles so have a good few inches of side wall.
This made a difference, but don’t think it’s the issue… at least for me. However if I unplug then it’ll show if not operating…

If you’ve only had an l322 with issues then you may think it’s normal to ride that way. It’s certainly not a smooth “magic carpet” ride  Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html