Well I looked at doing this on mine but the wear on the shaft made me dubious that a new seal would work. In addition the fitting on the outside was cracked so the water ran out under the cap instead of spraying from the nozzles.

To deal with both of these I came up with an alternative fix.

Inside the shaft there is a copper pipe insert. Once this is removed the shaft is big enough to push some small bore washer pipe up the inside.

From the outside I have discarded the original cover and nozzles and am inserting the nozzle from a VW golf (£5 on ebay) which also uses a through the shaft feed. This fits snugly into the end of the shaft.

On the inside I have left a loop of washer tube to allow for the movement, and then inserted the tube into the original black feed tube. This seals nicely.

All seems to work so far. I'll leave it like this for a few days and see how it goes.

MW Car history includes: LR Series 3, RR Classic x 4, LR 101, Discovery 1 and 2 and now FFRR.
Yes I'm a masochist....

Finally got round to uploading pictures.

The hole through the shaft with the liner and inner end cap (with the failed seal) removed:

A little tip for anyone fiddling with the rear wiper.

Most of us never see the hinge part, but you can guarantee yours is starting to corrode.

A great bit of kit I've picked up from the Defender forum at preventing rust long term is ACF-50 spray.

About £15 for a 500ml aerosol can, worth it's weight in gold. Just spray and wipe over anything that might get rusty. It resists washing off and you reapply every 6 months.

If Defender owners swear by it and it's Aviation grade, then it's good.



http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf-50.htm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACF-50-Anti-Corr...Sw-zxWnrrB Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

I did the radial oil seal fix today - but had some further work because the drive shaft was quite rusty:

After cleaning the shaft with emery cloth and adding copious amounts of a decent waterproof grease I had to push the existing radial seal further down into the cap/housing before putting the new radial oil seal on top (this sits lower down the shaft when the cap is screwed into place).

I also removed the metal gears and large nylon gear, cleaned them all up and applied more grease.

The one way water valve just before the wiper motor was very difficult to blow through, but a small amount of WD40 squirted in the direction of flow appeared to fix this.

Having two radial seals appears to work!

Having sealed a hundred leaking things on-board boats with sikaflex I have to ask - has anyone tried using a sealant and putting a thin bead around the existing grommet? I can't see why this wouldn't work, and it would barely even be noticeable. Tempted to have a go myself. If I do, I will report back.

SausageCreature, the wiper shaft turns within the seal, loading it up with silkaflex or similar will no doubt seize up the shaft once its set 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Mm..I need to look at this a bit closer. AFAIK, mine is leaking in the same place as the OP photos, from around where the black plastic/rubber meets the metal on the inside. This doesn't turn - surely it doesn't turn otherwise the whole hose feed would be wanging around inside the rear door everytime the wiper was swtiched on.

Ok, Wayne so it is worse than I thought in that the leak is inside the unit and just happens that the water leaks out as well as into the internals of the motor? OR is it just a leak that leaks out? If it is, then sealing the outside would be ok, wouldnt it ?

The wiper motor shaft turns within, if yours is leaking to the outside of the seal, block that up and the water will go into the motor gears and seize the motor. From your previous post, I thought you were thinking of adding sealer to the inside instead of replacing the seal.
Having just suffered a motor seizure and removal and clean then re-grease I like the idea of the VW nozzle mod, I will be doing that as now I have a leak from the outside nozzle 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Dang. What a pain. Ok. Looks like I need to order the rubber grommit that the OP identified and do the job properly.

It's not that bad a job, 20 mins to have it out and on the bench for me then time to clean grease etc. Taking the spoiler off takes 5 mins max, the inner trim the same and just a few screws and its off. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

Bought one... time to bite the bullet I guess....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x16x4-OILSEAL-...SwDkVaFIGP

and have yet another go at fixing the rear parking camera. I soldered the connections straight onto the PCB, but it was a poorly done job and only intermittently worked. I gave it to an auto-sparks to do a proper job and now it works not at all. Better have another go. I seem to spend more time in this area of the car than I did in the bilges of my boat (which was a lot).

wayneg wrote:

It's not that bad a job, 20 mins to have it out and on the bench for me then time to clean grease etc. Taking the spoiler off takes 5 mins max, the inner trim the same and just a few screws and its off.

Yeah, it doesnt look too bad, it's just cold here at the moment, and after a few winters at sea my hands have never been the same - the cold just splits them open at the end of the fingers and thumbs making me reluctant to do jobs like this in the cold. Still, the FF comes as first priority

Update: All done/ very easy. Fingers crossed it lasts.

Good morning, I have made a other repairing , the water trought the gearbox is not the best , it’s a problem by many cars

This is my idea

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

What jet is it you are using? This definitely looks the way to go to stop future water leaks in the gearbox plus this looks like an upgrade. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone